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  1. #1
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    Default ROUGHTING GOUGES *** this may be war Talk***

    So been doing a lot of spindle work over the last to weeks
    It got me thinking about roughing gouges and one big question what makes a good roughing gouge and what do you look for in a roughing gouge??

    I have 2 one is a small Sorby and the other is a large open fluted roughing gouge don't have a makers mark but told it came from the same guy that use to make the UNI Jig I love it its my first pick.
    DANGER!!!!
    I'm Dyslexic Spelling may offend!!!!!

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  3. #2
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    Hi Dave, I have found as I've become more competent I find I tend to grab the skew more often than not to go from square to round.
    regards
    Joel

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    NZ, you've seen my Roughing Gouge, P&N. Does the job, no matter the type of timber.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  5. #4
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    I had a hamlet 1 3/4 inch U shape roughing gouge but I it sat on my shelf for over 12 months
    never used it so I gave it to a good home were it gets used alot.
    DANGER!!!!
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  6. #5
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    Default The Roughing Gouge.

    Hi Dave,
    Well I'll stir the pot.
    Just can't take to those Bent pieces of steel, is it steel ?.

    I have 3 R/Gouges but my best one is the 25mm. P&N,& it is Machined out of a big hunk of HSS. Yes, Got a bit of Guts in it.

    My Other Big one is also P&N, & there are not to many of these around. It is Bent as well, BUT, it is 40 x 10mm. one big Mother, & great to use.

    My Little one is an older Greaves Rectangular, most likely a Spindle Gouge, but quite thick, as the older tools were.
    I use it for small spindle work & is a fine tool, but has to be sharpened a bit more as it is Carbon Steel.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedbound View Post
    Hi Dave, I have found as I've become more competent I find I tend to grab the skew more often than not to go from square to round.
    Joel, the use of a skew as a roughing gouge can be quite dangerous. It will produce fairly large splinters with a very sharp point that will penetrate skin deeply and quickly. In competent hands, a skew can produce a wide variety of shapes. I sometimes use a skew for roughing timber up to about 15mm square, but that's it.
    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  8. #7
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    ive got 3 a 25mm p&n for most roughing out and some detail work, a Henry Taylor hs34 small to medium work! and the big old p&n for big jobs post etc! use the p&n 's mostly! the odd time where I have used just the skew turning 100's of tapered plugs for the Navy.

  9. #8
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    has the ultimate roughing gouge show us a pic please .
    Mic

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    Quote Originally Posted by mick61 View Post
    has the ultimate roughing gouge show us a pic please .
    Mic
    That's a bit like saying likes cups of tea lol

    I know Robbos got a large range of roughing gouges
    I think last time I was there I counted 137 turning tools it's more of a toy shop for woodturners.
    DANGER!!!!
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  11. #10
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    I couldn't enjoy turning without my spindle roughing gouges 25mm & 32mm Hamlets & 25mm P&N. The P&N is the much stronger spindle roughing for roughing down with its machined flute from solid bar and robust tang design, however I use my Hamlets as finishing tools as well for spindle work with slow curves on swells etc. The U's wings act like a skew or more correctly a bedan in profile, so if well sharpened & honed produce a finish almost as good as a skew in skilled hands. (like Jim's - powder post).

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    So, there's been a lot of chatter about brands but no one has said why. A bit like saying my car is best because it's a Holden. So, what's good about your roughing gouge? Is it the flute shape, the way it holds it's edge? Etcetera, etcetera.

    To me, a roughing gouge is a roughing gouge, no matter what shape. I've got two, one of which is a Sorby and the other from McJing's. The McJing I ground to my own angle and made my own handle (we're all good at spindle turning, aren't we?)

    I have absolutely no preference for brand however a roughing gouge is as only as good as it's edge. That is, it has to be sharp. And for that the Tormek is king. I like my edges surgically sharp
    -Scott

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    The U's wings act like a skew or more correctly a bedan in profile, so if well sharpened & honed produce a finish almost as good as a skew in skilled hands. (like Jim's - powder post).
    I use the wings too. It has the extra advantage of evening up the wear all over rather than being concentrated on the U.
    Cheers,
    Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott View Post
    So, there's been a lot of chatter about brands but no one has said why.
    Hamlet because that was what the local wood turning retailer sold at the time. The HSS holds an edge well enough for me & as good as the skew if I choose to spend the time on the Tormek. The P&N was part of a prize package from AWTEX and has proved to be very very usefull along with another prize a P&N scraper.

  15. #14
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    Skew up to about 75 mm then P&N super gouge > 75 mm, because it is big and heavy.

    Edit
    The 75mm is wood size.
    Skew up to 75mm square then super gouge above.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidG View Post
    Skew up to about 75 mm then P&N super gouge > 75 mm, because it is big and heavy.
    They are really big, I don't think even has them that big or maybe a decimal point might be needed.


    Peter.

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