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  1. #511
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Fife Scotland
    Posts
    24

    Default Stuck Vertical Slide. Alba 1A was the forerunner to the Elliott 10M

    Hi Bob (with the Alba 1A) and the rest of you guys,

    Sorry I couldn't reply sooner...but the replies you have had to date are very close.
    Can I just say here..that the information which follows was originally given to guys with queries about "stuck" Vertical Slides on a couple of Elliott 10M Shapers. However, the Alba 1A (that you have Bob) is virtually identical...and is the direct predecessor to the Elliott 10M.

    Yes, the Vertical Slide is locked by the square headed eccentric seen horizontal behind the Vertical Slide Casting...

    ...and Yes...it does lock the swivel on the vertical slide...
    ...one of the other guys posted that he thought it locked in "reverse"...This is correct...and to lock the slide, you are supposed to turn the square-headed Eccentic Pin ANTI-clockwise.

    What tends to happen...is that previous "owners"...being "un-aware" of this little nuance...think that to lock the slide, they should tighten the eccentric by turning it clockwise (as if you were tightening a normal threaded bolt)...
    Turning it clockwise tends to just raise up burrs around the circular, grooved spigot...
    ...which in turn...just makes it even more difficult to remove the Vertical Slide.

    One final point...to remove the Vertical Slide (after you get it free enough to rotate)...you need to rotate the vertical slide until it is inverted (180 degrees) from it's normal operating position.
    The slide will be very difficult, if not impossible to remove (without damage)...unless you rotate it through 180 degrees.

    I have inserted a link to the respective homeworkshop forum page here in the UK...where one of the discussions took place.

    Shapers

    Hopefully, read thro' the posts...and you will then be able to determine how to go about getting the Vertical Slide free and also how to remove it completely.
    Once you have it out...and on the bench...then just dress or file out all the burrs and bruising...before you put it back in...for another 50 years.

    Best Regards from Bonnie Scotland
    Adrian (Neebs)

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  3. #512
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
    Posts
    368

    Default

    Thanks for all the advice guys. So yes, the process is rotate the slide 180° in order to remove the eccentric pin, work the swivel out of the ram, its a snug fit. To lock the swivel when you have it all reassembled turn the square drive ANTI clockwise.


  4. #513
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, SA
    Posts
    87

    Default Here are my 2 Shapers and slotter

    Here are some pictures of my shapers and slotter. Is it ok to show slotters here or will it tip shaper fans over?

    This is a little Torpex I have had for 15 or more years. We never used shapers much when I did my apprenticeship and the new toolroom didn't even have one!! I bought my own. It is good as I can grind up my own tooling for whatever comes along. I have done many internal keyways on here as well as many other jobs.

    I found this larger shaper for sale and it has been reconditioned. I have the luxury of 3 phase so I bought this one, or saved it from a boat ride to China. I need to relocate it to get better use out of it. I have run out of space for all my machines. My wife suggested selling some as I have 2 of them. But which one? It's like selling your child.

    I got tired of setting up to do internal keyways and other things and this Slotter was at an auction not far from me. It cost more than the 2 shapers combined, but after 10+ years searching for a slotter I finally got one. Please excuse the state of my farm workshop, it is a disgrace.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #514
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, SA
    Posts
    87

    Default More shaper pics

    I have a couple more pics to show. First are of the Torpex and second the Austolite. I had a hard time getting these pics up but persistence pays off!!

  6. #515
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    72
    Posts
    1,986

    Default

    A shaper question concerning capacity:
    Who in the Melbourne region has a shaper with at least 24" (610mm) stroke capcity?
    How accurate is that machine? Would it be suitable to resurface a 24" x 10" milling machine table?
    I'm actually asking on behalf of azzrock (Aaron) who is looking for options for resurfacing his Deckel FP1 table. It has the original parallel shallow grooves common to planed tables on these machines in the past. He would like to recreate those lines but about half a millimeter or so lower - to remove most of the marring of the table.
    Failing that I suggested grinding, but I too like the idea of sticking with what Friedrich Deckel chose.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  7. #516
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    A shaper question concerning capacity:
    Who in the Melbourne region has a shaper with at least 24" (610mm) stroke capcity?
    How accurate is that machine? Would it be suitable to resurface a 24" x 10" milling machine table?
    I'm actually asking on behalf of azzrock (Aaron) who is looking for options for resurfacing his Deckel FP1 table. It has the original parallel shallow grooves common to planed tables on these machines in the past. He would like to recreate those lines but about half a millimeter or so lower - to remove most of the marring of the table.
    Failing that I suggested grinding, but I too like the idea of sticking with what Friedrich Deckel chose.

    Nice to see that we have some purists ! If you haven't read this PM thread , Ross "Alfa GTA" tells how it is done. - Reconditioning deckel tables

    BT

  8. #517
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Failing someone having a 24" shaper. As the grooves "don't matter" as such. You could grind the table and then groove it on an 18" shaper(you might be able to get a 24" stroke on an 18" shaper if you didnt mind a little manual workout). As far as machining the table, my shaper might make things worse, I've never checked it over that length. Though. once its on the grinder you could grind them in. Whos got a 24" grinder?

    Stuart

  9. #518
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,469

    Default shaping up

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    A shaper question concerning capacity:
    Who in the Melbourne region has a shaper with at least 24" (610mm) stroke capcity?
    How accurate is that machine? Would it be suitable to resurface a 24" x 10" milling machine table?
    I'm actually asking on behalf of azzrock (Aaron) who is looking for options for resurfacing his Deckel FP1 table. It has the original parallel shallow grooves common to planed tables on these machines in the past. He would like to recreate those lines but about half a millimeter or so lower - to remove most of the marring of the table.
    Failing that I suggested grinding, but I too like the idea of sticking with what Friedrich Deckel chose.
    hi joe thanks mate. also very well described. I havent read the hole tread thread bob gave a link to but
    it seems to be an argument about grinder vs planner. . it seems that using a planner to refinish the table
    is not an option here in melbourne. Ive received lots of advise about the table from the others here.
    and sooner or later im going to have to make up my mind.
    grinding in the grooves nice one stu.
    This has reminded me about a friend of mine from here (thorens)
    ) had a lead on a large sharper .
    ill post some more in my first mill thread.

    SAM_0951.jpgSAM_0954.jpg

  10. #519
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    1,469

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    hi joe thanks mate. also very well described. I havent read the hole tread thread bob gave a link to but
    it seems to be an argument about grinder vs planner. . it seems that using a planner to refinish the table
    is not an option here in melbourne. Ive received lots of advise about the table from the others here.
    and sooner or later im going to have to make up my mind.
    grinding in the grooves nice one stu.
    This has reminded me about a friend of mine from here (thorens)
    ) had a lead on a large sharper .
    ill post some more in my first mill thread.

    SAM_0951.jpgSAM_0954.jpg
    I know someone with a 36" stroke shaper but they're not in Melbourne. NW Victoria and the machine is mothballed ATM.

    I also know someone with a 48" stroke planer but - they're not in Melbourne....

    PDW

  11. #520
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Hi Aaron,

    If you decide to go for ground finish, I can surface grind up to 600x300, so you'd just make it. (You'd have to come up to Shepp for a visit )

    My shaper only goes to 18", I think Ewan's Queen City goes to 24"?

    Ray

  12. #521
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    4,304

    Default

    Just be aware once you touch it, it will bow....

    Marko this year ground a small table for a deckel, and it was grind, flip, grind, flip, grind, flip, grind, flip..etc etc to get it flat...
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  13. #522
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    40
    Posts
    4,467

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Hi Aaron,

    If you decide to go for ground finish, I can surface grind up to 600x300, so you'd just make it. (You'd have to come up to Shepp for a visit )

    My shaper only goes to 18", I think Ewan's Queen City goes to 24"?

    Ray
    The only way to get it flat off the Queen is by some miracle it bows straight once it is cut. My ram is a banana, it more or less moves in an arc. I could put the lines in though after a grind.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #523
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    178

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Just be aware once you touch it, it will bow....
    .
    If I am right about the style of azzrock's table, it is in the form of a webbed angle plate, with no 'other side' to grind if it distorts.
    Maybe the construction would stiffen it and reduce distortion. How is an an angle plate trued?

    Bill

  15. #524
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    Aug 2010
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    Bendigo
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    72
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    1,986

    Default

    That's exactly what the Deckel table looks like: a webbed large angle plate. So there is no option to 'flip it'....
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  16. #525
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,469

    Default getting somewhere

    hi every one. ill post some pics back on my first mill thread.
    joe rc,ray bob stu, uee.pdw and wcd. Is that every one
    thanks more to think about.

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