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Results 511 to 525 of 527
Thread: Show us your Shaper
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11th September 2013, 05:03 AM #511Novice
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- Fife Scotland
- Posts
- 24
Stuck Vertical Slide. Alba 1A was the forerunner to the Elliott 10M
Hi Bob (with the Alba 1A) and the rest of you guys,
Sorry I couldn't reply sooner...but the replies you have had to date are very close.
Can I just say here..that the information which follows was originally given to guys with queries about "stuck" Vertical Slides on a couple of Elliott 10M Shapers. However, the Alba 1A (that you have Bob) is virtually identical...and is the direct predecessor to the Elliott 10M.
Yes, the Vertical Slide is locked by the square headed eccentric seen horizontal behind the Vertical Slide Casting...
...and Yes...it does lock the swivel on the vertical slide...
...one of the other guys posted that he thought it locked in "reverse"...This is correct...and to lock the slide, you are supposed to turn the square-headed Eccentic Pin ANTI-clockwise.
What tends to happen...is that previous "owners"...being "un-aware" of this little nuance...think that to lock the slide, they should tighten the eccentric by turning it clockwise (as if you were tightening a normal threaded bolt)...
Turning it clockwise tends to just raise up burrs around the circular, grooved spigot...
...which in turn...just makes it even more difficult to remove the Vertical Slide.
One final point...to remove the Vertical Slide (after you get it free enough to rotate)...you need to rotate the vertical slide until it is inverted (180 degrees) from it's normal operating position.
The slide will be very difficult, if not impossible to remove (without damage)...unless you rotate it through 180 degrees.
I have inserted a link to the respective homeworkshop forum page here in the UK...where one of the discussions took place.
Shapers
Hopefully, read thro' the posts...and you will then be able to determine how to go about getting the Vertical Slide free and also how to remove it completely.
Once you have it out...and on the bench...then just dress or file out all the burrs and bruising...before you put it back in...for another 50 years.
Best Regards from Bonnie Scotland
Adrian (Neebs)
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11th September 2013 05:03 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th September 2013, 11:33 PM #512Senior Member
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- Feb 2013
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- Laidley, SE Qld
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- 368
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16th September 2013, 05:45 PM #513Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Location
- Adelaide Hills, SA
- Posts
- 87
Here are my 2 Shapers and slotter
Here are some pictures of my shapers and slotter. Is it ok to show slotters here or will it tip shaper fans over?
This is a little Torpex I have had for 15 or more years. We never used shapers much when I did my apprenticeship and the new toolroom didn't even have one!! I bought my own. It is good as I can grind up my own tooling for whatever comes along. I have done many internal keyways on here as well as many other jobs.
I found this larger shaper for sale and it has been reconditioned. I have the luxury of 3 phase so I bought this one, or saved it from a boat ride to China. I need to relocate it to get better use out of it. I have run out of space for all my machines. My wife suggested selling some as I have 2 of them. But which one? It's like selling your child.
I got tired of setting up to do internal keyways and other things and this Slotter was at an auction not far from me. It cost more than the 2 shapers combined, but after 10+ years searching for a slotter I finally got one. Please excuse the state of my farm workshop, it is a disgrace.
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16th September 2013, 05:51 PM #514Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Location
- Adelaide Hills, SA
- Posts
- 87
More shaper pics
I have a couple more pics to show. First are of the Torpex and second the Austolite. I had a hard time getting these pics up but persistence pays off!!
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7th January 2014, 10:21 PM #515
A shaper question concerning capacity:
Who in the Melbourne region has a shaper with at least 24" (610mm) stroke capcity?
How accurate is that machine? Would it be suitable to resurface a 24" x 10" milling machine table?
I'm actually asking on behalf of azzrock (Aaron) who is looking for options for resurfacing his Deckel FP1 table. It has the original parallel shallow grooves common to planed tables on these machines in the past. He would like to recreate those lines but about half a millimeter or so lower - to remove most of the marring of the table.
Failing that I suggested grinding, but I too like the idea of sticking with what Friedrich Deckel chose.Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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7th January 2014, 11:00 PM #516.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,650
Nice to see that we have some purists ! If you haven't read this PM thread , Ross "Alfa GTA" tells how it is done. - Reconditioning deckel tables
BT
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7th January 2014, 11:13 PM #517GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Failing someone having a 24" shaper. As the grooves "don't matter" as such. You could grind the table and then groove it on an 18" shaper(you might be able to get a 24" stroke on an 18" shaper if you didnt mind a little manual workout). As far as machining the table, my shaper might make things worse, I've never checked it over that length. Though. once its on the grinder you could grind them in. Whos got a 24" grinder?
Stuart
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8th January 2014, 01:04 AM #518GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
shaping up
hi joe thanks mate. also very well described. I havent read the hole tread thread bob gave a link to but
it seems to be an argument about grinder vs planner. . it seems that using a planner to refinish the table
is not an option here in melbourne. Ive received lots of advise about the table from the others here.
and sooner or later im going to have to make up my mind.
grinding in the grooves nice one stu.
This has reminded me about a friend of mine from here (thorens)
) had a lead on a large sharper .
ill post some more in my first mill thread.
SAM_0951.jpgSAM_0954.jpg
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8th January 2014, 09:23 PM #519SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jun 2011
- Location
- Australia east coast
- Age
- 71
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- 1,469
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8th January 2014, 09:29 PM #520
Hi Aaron,
If you decide to go for ground finish, I can surface grind up to 600x300, so you'd just make it. (You'd have to come up to Shepp for a visit )
My shaper only goes to 18", I think Ewan's Queen City goes to 24"?
Ray
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8th January 2014, 09:34 PM #521Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 4,304
Just be aware once you touch it, it will bow....
Marko this year ground a small table for a deckel, and it was grind, flip, grind, flip, grind, flip, grind, flip..etc etc to get it flat...Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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8th January 2014, 09:45 PM #5221915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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8th January 2014, 10:24 PM #523Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 178
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8th January 2014, 11:02 PM #524
That's exactly what the Deckel table looks like: a webbed large angle plate. So there is no option to 'flip it'....
Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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9th January 2014, 10:06 PM #525GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
getting somewhere
hi every one. ill post some pics back on my first mill thread.
joe rc,ray bob stu, uee.pdw and wcd. Is that every one
thanks more to think about.
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