Thread: Your latest project

Gents,

Picture attached below of a small boring head I've almost finished making.

It's based on some plans on the internet at boring head, but with a straight shank for the collet chuck instead of a morse taper, and some dimensional changes to suit the steel stock in my scrap steel box.

Pictured also are the special 10mm x 0.5 tap I made (from old 1/2" silver steel stock) to cut the adjusting screw internal thread, and also the dovetail cutter (ground down from an old 3/4" slot drill in my old tool collection). Both worked better than expected. The previous attempt at a dovetail cutter was the subject of another post.(https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/do...r-fail-176894/)

I still need to make up some 12mm boring bars, add some scratches and numbers to the dial, and maybe a bit of further cleaning up.

Then I can do some testing.

Andrew

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Nice work, looks just like a bought one. I wish my lathe was going, so I could make a few things.
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

I wish my lathe was going, so I could make a few things.

Whats wrong with it Kryn? Start a new thread about it. I'm sure a few of us can chip in with contradictory advice!

Michael

After mahgnia's magnificent boring head post I'm almost reluctant to show my pretty piece of aluminium.

I was asked to replicate a steering wheel hub for a late 20's Hudson Essex. The originals are made from a brittle variety of diecast and after 80 odd years they have nearly all developed serious cracks which make them unsafe to use.

The main features are fairly straightforward, a tapered bore with keyway and 8 x 1/4" threaded holes with collars around them. The tricky part (for me anyway) was achieving a reasonable copy of the curvy exterior, and here I resorted to HAD/HAM - human assisted etc, plus files, plus wetn'dry and kero. It all turned out quite well I thought.

A shot of the original


Another shot of the original, you can see a crack near the keyway, and the lump of aluminium in which the new hub lurks.


Roughing the outside, this was all done with a parting blade, .100" steps on Z axis


Fining up the outside, millions of little cuts (90 actual count) on Z increments of .020", still using the parting blade


All done

Hi

That is a neat job

What was the sequence of operations ? Did you machine the bore/taper first , then cut the keyway ? And then drill / tap the eight holes - finally mount it on a mandrel for the external shaping . How did you calculate the taper ?

Mike

Originally Posted by Michael G

Whats wrong with it Kryn? Start a new thread about it. I'm sure a few of us can chip in with contradictory advice!

Michael

Hi Michael, the motor is shot. I put up a thread some time ago about it, it's a 7X12, the only place for parts is from LMS in the states, just a matter of saving
Kryn

great job Bob, but how did you do the rest of it

It looks a most interesting project and i would love some of the magic revealed

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Next time!

You think it was just bad timing or crazy current levels from reversing?

Where's the video?

Congratulations to Sparkles and his/her driver (also to the chief mechanic)

Stuart

You think it was just bad timing or crazy current levels from reversing? ************no sh@# happens
Congratulations to Sparkles and his/her driver (also to the chief mechanic)********* Thanks
Videos at
miles andjules - YouTube

A good one to watch Scissor Hands vs Demon Robowars Nationals day 1 best slow mo fight - YouTube

Originally Posted by rusel

You think it was just bad timing or crazy current levels from reversing? ************no sh@# happens
Congratulations to Sparkles and his/her driver (also to the chief mechanic)********* Thanks
Videos at
miles andjules - YouTube

A good one to watch Scissor Hands vs Demon Robowars Nationals day 1 best slow mo fight - YouTube

I'd better go and some work before swmbo catches me....I watched 5 or 6 of scissor hands fights...lol....lol....lol

congrats to sparkles to!

Sparkles was robbed!(but then I dont know the rules lol)

Stuart

Yes scissorhands, a NSW bot is made from titanium therefore the white sparkes.
Must find out who the winner where.
Here is their forum for those interested
RoboWars Australia :: Index

Hi
Just finished making some mitre fences and inserts for some fellow forum members.
CNC milled from 12.7mm aluminum plate and 5mm plate.
I got a lot of pleasure from making these for people who are enthusiastic about getting involved with this project. May there have many year of dust making with them.

R

@Morrisman. By protractor the taper measured at 2.5° included angle. This is very close to 1 in 48 per side taper which would be a typical specification for a taper in a US car of the period. A sample taper was a good fit on the shaft, so 1 in 48 it was.

@Markaus. The hole layout was all done on the mill using the DRO's bolt circle feature. I used an annular cutter to cut the 9/16" OD collars which are 1/4" high. I used the lathe to cut to the inside and outside of where the collars were going to be, cut the collars, then cleaned out the material between the collars using an end mill.

The annular cutter was made from a scrap piece of 20mm bright round and I hardened the teeth with Cherry Red.

Hi Bob,
I'm even more impressed seeing the tool you made of which I will be picking your brains about I have no doubt
Great job.

Phil