Thread: Melbourne, Backsaw Making Workshop

At the risk of lowering the sales of swivel vises, I mostly prefer to hold it by hand, particularily in the latter stages, sometimes resting on a knee, as you work on getting out the scratches, it's easier to see defects as you rotate in the hand.

I do have a swivel vise as well..

Regards
Ray

Hi. Just purchased 1 of these 8" 200mm Manaul Steel Metal Plate BAR Hand Shears Shear | eBay to try out on saw plate steel as an alternate method to using a dremel . Some of the saw makers in the U.S. & Germany use something similar so its worth a trial. Will forum post how it performs. Not a huge cost so if it doesn't work I will try and sell it as a boat anchor. Its heavy enough.

Stewie;

From what I have heard the smaller jaws versions curl the steel and you have to beat it back in line. The longer jaws don't curl as much. Be interested to see your results though.

If it does work it certainly be easier set up than other methods. Which I'm dreading cutting 100 bits shortly.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

From what I have heard the smaller jaws versions curl the steel and you have to beat it back in line. The longer jaws don't curl as much. Be interested to see your results though.

If it does work it certainly be easier set up than other methods. Which I'm dreading cutting 100 bits shortly.

Dale, perhaps Holmesglen TAFE has an industrial shear or guillotine - should have. High Schools in NSW all have one AFAIK. This will make short work on the cutting.

Cheers
Peter

I used to use a shear just like that
As long has it is nice and tight u should not have a problem
We used it regular with 18 and 20 gauge mild steel

Originally Posted by Simplicity

I used to use a shear just like that
As long has it is nice and tight u should not have a problem
We used it regular with 18 and 20 gauge mild steel

What about spring steel?

If it doesn't work, maybe you could fit it with a triangle shaped punch and die and use it to punch teeth!

Originally Posted by DSEL74

From what I have heard the smaller jaws versions curl the steel and you have to beat it back in line. The longer jaws don't curl as much. Be interested to see your results though.

If it does work it certainly be easier set up than other methods. Which I'm dreading cutting 100 bits shortly.

Dale. I doubt there is a direct connection between the length of the shear jaws and curling of the steel during the cut. More important from a performance perspective would be the closeness of gap between the moving & fixed jaw. Just my thoughts.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

I used to use a shear just like that
As long has it is nice and tight u should not have a problem
We used it regular with 18 and 20 gauge mild steel

Thats what I am hoping for. Wont know how tight the clearance is until I unpack the unit and set it up.

Originally Posted by planemaker

Dale. I doubt there is a direct connection between the length of the shear jaws and curling of the steel during the cut. More important from a performance perspective would be the closeness of gap between the moving & fixed jaw. Just my thoughts.

You might be right. I was told that by someone who has a small and a larger version and I questioned them on it use for this exact purpose.

The curled result they found and put down to size may actually relate to condition, brand, quality, and tolerances. Tinsnips have been used and they curl the plate which is the same principal agin but much smaller.

As I said earlier I am keen to see your results, as I am sure you will test it full and specifically to this purpose.

Got an email from Matt today with his results from the workshop a 10" Cross Cut and he said I could share it with the forum if I thought you guys would appreciate seeing his saw.

Well Matt has done an outstanding job! Only small things that could have been better and are a shame is that the lettering is straight but it isn't inline with spine, and the split in the saw nuts aren't aligned. Besides that it is pretty hard to fault the saw. Tote is the sheoak provided, I have asked what finish he has used and waiting to hear back.

You may notice it appears he rounded the end of the brass spine & the mortise. That would allow you to drill the slot for the mortise and chisel out the waste but it also is a asthsetic nice touch. I like it.

The dedication on the back I can only assume is a special lady woodworker who is getting Matt's first handmade saw. I am sure there will be plenty of brownie points awarded for such a stunning gift and she will be a very happy lady.

Also Matt bought kits at the course and labelled his email my first saw…So I can only say I look forward to seeing the future saws.



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Matts done a fantastic job. The handle shape & finish are top notch. For his 1st build he has raised the bench mark extremely high. A bit more practice with the sharpening side and your on your way.

Stewie;

Some further comments in response to my email from Matt:

Yes, the Handmade stamp is crooked. You line it up as best you can, hold your breath, and then give it one solid smack with a good-sized hammer. If you get it wrong – you live with it. I console myself with the thought that it makes it look more “handmade”.

The MR logo was intended to align with the grain, and again went slightly wonky. I can’t really rotate it without buggering the square recess that prevents it moving (its on the bolt head, not the nut).

The brass back is rounded in the mortise. I copied that detail from a couple of Adria Saws I have. It would have made it easier to drill the end of the mortice first, but unfortunately I had half cut the mortice before I decided on it, so I ground down a carving gouge to fit and chiselled the half-round end. In the future I would definitely define the end with a drill first.

Yeah, I have a letter stamp set that has a holder you can load up with characters to stamp a line at a time. I think it’ll take about 20 characters at once. It’s an old set, and is missing a few bits which can limit your text options occasionally. For example I intended to say “Custom Fit For” but only had one “F”. You also have to try and judge and alter the ‘weight’ of your hammer strike for the number of characters you are stamping.

Tote sanded to 400 grit, then Ubeaut Sanding Sealer, then sand with 600 grit, then Ubeaut Traditional Wax and buff off.

It is a gift for one of my nieces; unfortunately my wife disapproves of me having “ladyfriends”!!
She better be pleased!

If your intimidated by Matt's first saw take a look at matts first Plane. It didn't take long he knocked it up in a measly 50-60Hrs..The time and effort shows.
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I don't know where he got em, but the man definitely has skills. Guidance &inspiration was given in making the plane by someone some of you may recognise Peter McBride.

Wow Dale. Matts a very talented toolmaker. He couldn't have picked a better mentor to follow advise from than Peter McBride.