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3rd April 2014, 05:11 PM #1Novice
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Clean up timber before thicknessing
Hi All,
I have long term loan of my father-in-law’s GMC thicknesser. So far I’ve put some ironbark floorboards through it without trouble.
My next job is reclaiming some old slash pine floorboards, which have a 2 pack finish on them. I’ve started cleaning the finish off with the belt sander. It’s not too much trouble & helps me find any leftover bits of nail etc.
I’m assuming that it would be best not to put paint etc through the thicknesser, but just asking is that what everyone else would do?
Thanks,
Peter
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3rd April 2014 05:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd April 2014, 05:25 PM #2
Yep!
Either that or a scraper that I have, which is a bit quicker and quieter than the belt sander, but requires more elbow grease.
I also have a metal detector which I run over recycled boards that might have snapped off nails in them."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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3rd April 2014, 10:17 PM #3Taking a break
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If it's just one or two pieces you could get away with running it as-is, but otherwise clean it off.
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4th April 2014, 09:03 AM #4
I would never run painted timber through mine. For one thing paint will blunt your blades quicker, and for another you don't know what is under the paint.
Here are some of the things I have found in recycled timber:
Cup hook (probably to hold up a curtain). Thread snapped off and still embedded, puttied and painted over at some point.
Staple legs, crown broken off.
Fix out nails, rusted off but the head still just under the surface of the paint
Screws with the head snapped off
Hit any one of those and you will have a nice nick in your blades."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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5th April 2014, 10:36 AM #5Novice
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I'll keep going then. Hadn't thought of the scraper - I'll give that a go too. Peter
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7th April 2014, 09:55 AM #6
See if you can get yourself one of these:
It has a double-sided blade. They cut very aggressively so doesn't take long to strip back a board."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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10th April 2014, 07:40 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Bahco make a similar scraper. Tungsten Carbide blades and a brilliant design. Absolute dynamite stripping paint from wood or metal.
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4th May 2014, 10:06 AM #8Senior Member
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To be honest, I just run a metal detector over recycled timber and throw it in. Maybe it dulls the blades a bit quicker but I've just taken the old varnish off 400lm of recycled floor boards and my spiral head blades show no signs of wear. Guess it depends how valuable time is vs blades.
The metal detector is a must though.
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4th May 2014, 11:27 AM #9Taking a break
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4th May 2014, 01:55 PM #10Senior Member
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Clean up timber before thicknessing
Both true points. I used to have a generic gmc thicknesser with the reversible hss blades which I used throw everything through as well but blades were cheap so I just used to replace them when they were dull.
I'd also be interested to know he much paint you'd cut through. Wouldn't mind betting it's not a lot with say a 1mm cut. You'd be well under the paint surface.
Dunno..
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4th May 2014, 03:35 PM #11Taking a break
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Assuming 9000RPM cutter and 8m/min feed (ballpark numbers for a benchtop thicknesser), you get 1125 revs per metre, times 2 knives is 2250 cuts per metre. Allow 0.1mm paint thickness and you're cutting through 225mm of paint for every metre of timber.
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4th May 2014, 04:04 PM #12Senior Member
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Clean up timber before thicknessing
I guess the way I was thinking of it was the timber is fed in so the feed direction is against the rotation of the cutter head. Each time the blade strikes the timber, it is presented with a clean piece of timber which is where I reckon most of your blade wear comes from. The only time it cuts through the paint is on the upcut where it's lifting the chip away.
I think it's debatable as to whether the upcut is actually forcing the blade through the paint of if it's just fracturing it off with the grain. Probably a bit of both I'd say but I reckon the vast majority of your blade wear comes from that instance where it goes from free rotation to slamming into the wood which should be paint free.
Just bouncing some ideas around here.
Whaddayarekon?
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...hicknesser.gif
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4th May 2014, 06:03 PM #13
Nothing better than a plane to remove timber in my opinion. Now I just use a hand help electric plane, I dont have a thicknesser yet
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
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4th May 2014, 06:03 PM #14Taking a break
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Didn't even occur to me that the blade comes up rather than down.
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4th May 2014, 06:36 PM #15Senior Member
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I have to admit, I wasn't thicknessing painted timber because I'd thought this through.
I was doing it because I was lazy
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