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Thread: WIP - Bunnings materials...
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6th June 2014, 10:20 AM #31Senior Member
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I did the mortises first and cut the tenons slightly oversize, before trimming with a plane and chisel to fit. For me, it meant they all were tight, accurate fits with no slop (but I haven't tried the other way, so it may be just as valid)
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6th June 2014, 10:38 AM #32Senior Member
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- Feb 2011
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- Brisbane - Southside
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Are your bench legs 90 x 90 pine Greg ?
Cheers, Scott
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6th June 2014, 11:13 AM #33
Hi Scott,
yep. the legs are 90 x90 pine. I am not saying they are the best option or anything, but they were readily available, and not to expensive, and didn't have to clean them up. I could have gone down the laminated hardwood post path, but I didn't want to worry about mortising into hardwood.
I am aiming to build a basic frame like michael_m's but only longer, and will end up filling in underneath with storage.
cheers.
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6th June 2014, 11:17 AM #34
yeah that is what I was thinking I should have done. I tried to be efficient and use an electric router and do all four tenons(clamped together) at once and it ended up just making a mess.
I am finding it more and more that when I take it slowly with the sharp planes and chisels I get a much better result.
I will do the moritses first for the spreaders.
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17th June 2014, 09:47 AM #35
progress... draw boring one end
I had some more time over the weekend to work on the bench and had my son helping which was good.
(you all have seen a photo of him... he is my avatar... that is 9 1/2 years ago! will have to get updated photo in this thread)
We drawbored the frame on one end.
IMAG0054.jpg
the tools used: square, ruler, pencil, tip from a dart(instead of an awl), and my "offset stick".
The offset stick is a piece of dowel that is the correct size for the hole, that has a pin/nail put in about 2-3mm off centre on one end.
IMAG0056.jpg
once I have drilled the hole through the mortice, I then put the tennon in, then use this offset-stick to register where I need to drill in the tennon to pull it in tight. (I hope that makes sense.) I have a pencil mark on the side of offset stick to let me know the side where the nail is closest to. My son enjoyed giving the stick a couple of gentle taps to register a pin mark.
Then using a drill press(my son enjoyed drilling and it meant all holes were straight), we were able to drill straight on the mark.
IMAG0060.jpg
All done, after letting glue dry and cleaning up with the block plane.
progress:
- drowbored and glued one end
- did a few more mortices
next:
- Right hand side is glued, but still need to cut morices for the stretchers.
- left to do: 9 mortises; 6 tenons;
- hopefully will manage to get a few more hours this evening to finish the other end.
thoughts and observations
- the more M & T s I do, the quicker I become and the better(neater, tighter) they become.
- it is good having my son in the garage helping. He is wanting his own bench but I told him we would be sharing this one, and because it is so long, we will have a vice on both ends and we can both be working at the same time. I have decided to put my grandfathers vice on the front of the bench on the right hand end as both my son and daughter are lefties
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18th June 2014, 02:50 PM #36Senior Member
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- Feb 2011
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- Brisbane - Southside
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- 273
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8th July 2014, 09:46 AM #37
slow progress...
Hi all,
it has been slow progress lately as it has been to bl00dy cold to work at night in the garage.
so what have I done?
- I have now finished joining the leg frames at both ends. one draw boring with glue and one with out. I can't see any difference between the two at all.
- for something different and to make the legs look a little interesting and to take the potentially splintery corners off, I have tried doing a couple of stopped chamfers on the legs. they look good. the first one I did was rougher than the other, but I am learning. I will end up doing all the corners of all the legs once I have all the mortices done but before final join. they are fun to do.
- I have now managed to cut mortices into the top for one end and it fits very nicely
IMAG0072.jpg
- my son was asking about where one of the vices go, so 10 minutes later, after cutting off the excess threaded rod, chiseling out some wood for the shape of the vice, and it is in place.
IMAG0074.jpgIMAG0077.jpg
I haven't permanently attached, as this is my little work area and I still need it until I flip the bench over.
also, remember, I am eventually going to be putting a hard wood apron on the front which will cover the vice.
progress:
- finished joining leg frames for both ends.
- mortices for legs to go into the top at the right hand end
- got space for grandfathers vice sorted.
- 2 stopped chamfers on the legs. not sure how many I will do.
next:
- 2 mortices into the top for the other leg frames.
- 4 mortices into the leg frames for the stretchers to go in.
- cut the stretchers to length and their associated tenons.
- cut a lip into the stretchers to fit a plywood shelf into.
- drill holes into the stretchers to fit bolts into...
thoughts and observations
- I enjoy using spokeshaves... I don't know what it is about them, but I just enjoy using them. I almost think that the stopped chamfers was just an excuse to be able to use them on this build. is there something wrong with me?
well tonight the family are away, and I don't have to work so hopefully I can get a few hours in the garage and make some progress..
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23rd July 2014, 02:10 PM #38
front vice installation....
Hi all,
I am getting close to installing my front vice. I have one of these large veritas front vise which has the extra two collars.
I am thinking about how I am going to drill the holes for the bars and thread. I was originally thinking that the wholes need to be a snug fit for the rods, but thinking about it, they don't. the two collars will provide rigidity/support through the apron and for the jaw that moves, it is going to be screwed to the outside anyway.
is my thinking correct?
as anyone installed one of these vices? any tricks?
thanks
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28th July 2014, 06:37 PM #39
Yes, I would think that the two metal collars for each guide rod are expected to do all the work, so not necessary to have snug holes through the wood. OTH, you don't want the holes too large, or they will just fill up with junk....
Cheers,IW
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14th August 2014, 08:29 PM #40
Hi All,
I know it is a while since I have posted... but I have been busy at nights. whats happened?
I managed to connect the top to the base and with the help of my brother it has been tipped over. yippee...
it was a little uneven(corner to corner), but after 3 weeks of use it seems to have evened out a bit.
bench.jpgbench_vise.JPG
here it is being used! One of the things I had in mind when designing this work bench was for both my son (10 yo)and I to be able to work and not get into each others space. well last weekend, we had the house to ourselves for a few hours, and I was needing to get some work done on some projects, and he came in and asked if he could have some wood to make a box. so for the next couple of hours he worked up his end asking questions every so often whilst I was working down my end. we both had plenty of space. it was really good.
a couple of the projects I have been working on are:
pencil box and abacus: These two were gifts for my sons grade four teacher who is going on maternity leave for the rest of the year. previous years I have given pencil boxes(yes it is based upon a japanese tool box, but I pass them off as pencil boxes) as thank you/christmas gifts, so I made that. in Grade 4 the kids are now expected to have a calculator. I have refused to provide my son with said calculator and have had a good natured dialogue with the teacher all year, so decided to make an abacus.
pencil box: masters red oak, upholstery pins, blo.
abacus: silky oak , brass pins, plastic beads, blo.
abacus.jpgabacus2.jpgpencil_box1.jpgpencil_box2.jpg
book ends; this was a gift for a person I have worked with for the last 8 years and is moving back home overseas. The woods are mallee burl, plus also some recycled hardwood. finish is blo (a few coats) and a thin layer of estapol.
IMG_6580.jpgIMG_6581.jpgIMG_6583.jpgIMG_6584.jpg
I have to say I am not overly happy with the burl. It has come out a lot darker than I was hoping in natural light. it only looks really read in the pictures due to the flash on the camera.... oh well....
but... bottom line is the work bench has been really good. I can't wait until I get to smooth out the top(it is a hhuge dust trap at the moment), and finish putting the apron on the front. but that will all happen soon.
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15th August 2014, 07:49 PM #41Senior Member
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- Sep 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
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- 298
The bench is looking good
And the abacus, box and bookends are looking great!
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20th August 2014, 04:28 PM #42
An interesting read and I can help be applaud your determination to get the workbench done in spite of a number of set backs.
Once done you will get years of excellent service from the bench so its certainly worth the effort. I built my bench approx nine years ago this July, and boy has it ever seen service. Every so often I scare it and give it a light sand and oil. It's something I couldn't do without in my workshop.
Like you I built it on a budget. The whole thing cost me about $100.00 all up. If I had to buy one it would be the best part of a grand, so its good to build your own.
I will watch your progress with interest.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/workbench-2-a-32649Dust Mite...Terrorising noses for the discerning...
Pirongia Pens & Woodcraft
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