Thread: Four new saws (hmm 60+ yo maybe)

Originally Posted by IanW

Peter - are you looking through the close-vision part of your glasses or through the centre?

What we are all needing is some degree of magnification, & the more chronologically challenged we are, the more magnification we usually need, to make up for other defects that have caused deterioration of our vision. Now it's an inescapable rule of physics that, for a simple lens, the higher the magnification, the shorter the focal length. That means the distance between the lens & the object you wish to see clearly gets shorter, so if you want things to look bigger, you are stuck with that. Optivisor's "working distances" are calculated on the focal length of the lens, and an assumption of 'normal' vision, but the exact working distance that you will get with a lens of a given magnification will vary unless you have 'normal' vision, either naturally, or through correction with spectacles. But it will also vary according to the state of your eyes & what type of specs, if any, you wear. If you have a friendly optometrist, he/she would be able to help you decide on a magnification that gives you a sufficient enlargement at a working distance you can live with...

Cheers,

Good point Ian. So I experimented with looking through the higher part of the glasses, and found that I got close to 10" with the Optivisor lens frame pitched up as high as I could - this is not very comfortable, but workable.

I also have a pair of glasses for use with the computer (which I hardly use because I often refer to paper whilst using said PC), and tried these, and found them to be a big improvement, although best vision at 7-8". So I think the 14" lens with these glasses will be perfect for most uses, the 10" lens will be good with very small teeth. I trust this helps those looking at the Optivisor.

That's most helpful Peter and Ian

Most of the interested parties seem to be opting (sorry) for two lens, the DA-4 (10") and the DA-3 (14").

Regards
Paul

here is the photo as promised


Tony
#24 is a darker timber, not sure what it is
But I do wonder whether it is a bit weaker seeing how both horns are broken (as was yours if I recall correctly)

112 handles_0844.jpg

On closer examination I believe that the #24 is lower hung than the #22

Here is a photo of the full S&J etch along with the main one in greater detail

S&J etches_0848.jpg S&J no 88A_0850.jpg

Sawdust Maker
I have cleaned mine a little and am uncertain.
It may be a very dark batch of apple or it is rosewood.
I am yet to make a cut in it for horn replacement; that should provide more info.
Cheers
Tony

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Here is a photo of the full S&J etch along with the main one in greater detail

S&J etches_0848.jpg S&J no 88A_0850.jpg

3rd paragraph down on the following attachment explains Sorbite (Sorbitic Temper).

http://www.efunda.com/processes/heat.../tempering.cfm

Stewie;

Thanks Stewie

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Attachment 305831 Attachment 305833 Attachment 305832 Attachment 305834

I too just acquired a 12" Francis Wood & Son backsaw very similar to Sawdust Maker's and in doing an internet search found next to nothing about this maker except what has been posted here and on backsaw.net . Sawdust Maker, or anyone else, have you come up with any additional information?
I must confess that I covet Sawdust Maker's handle, mine is rather plain but does have split nuts. All in all I won't complain as I only have one dollar invested in it, and a Canadian dollar at that which is a bit low these past days.
i will post a couple photos of mine. Thanks in advance should anyone have additional information.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Sorry no further information

Interesting
your lettering is fancier than on mine
and your handle looks as though it is machine made and may be a lot more recent

will never know whether mine had split nuts or not as it was obviouslt adulterated. I'm not real happy with using the disston saw nuts etc but they look 100% better than what was there when I received the saw.

I need to finish sharpening it and reassemble

and welcome to the forum (and to the F Wood & Sons collectors club of which there are now two members )

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Sorry no further information

Interesting
your lettering is fancier than on mine
and your handle looks as though it is machine made and may be a lot more recent

will never know whether mine had split nuts or not as it was obviouslt adulterated. I'm not real happy with using the disston saw nuts etc but they look 100% better than what was there when I received the saw.

I need to finish sharpening it and reassemble

and welcome to the forum (and to the F Wood & Sons collectors club of which there are now two members )

Thanks for for the quick update. It does indeed seem to be rather small collectors club and a rather antipodal one at that. I have not attempted to clean or sharpen or even to test thesaw for hang yet as I have been sidelined after surgery on my right hand to repair a broken tendon and it will be a couple months before I can make use of it. Perhaps by then we can increase our membership!

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Sorry no further information

Interesting
your lettering is fancier than on mine
and your handle looks as though it is machine made and may be a lot more recent

will never know whether mine had split nuts or not as it was obviouslt adulterated. I'm not real happy with using the disston saw nuts etc but they look 100% better than what was there when I received the saw.

I need to finish sharpening it and reassemble

and welcome to the forum (and to the F Wood & Sons collectors club of which there are now two members )

Did a bit of research and found another member of the F Wood & Son club, but he wants out: LOVELY 14 INCH TENON SAW FRANCIS WOOD & SON. 1917 | eBay

His 14" tenon is from 1917 and has your style handle and your style lettering and what appears to be brass washers and preened brass dowel to secure the handle.

I did did find a circa 1880 ice skate by F. Wood that has the same lettering style as mine.

i am going to conclude that mine is likely 1880 to 1910 and has had the handle replaced. Yours is likely 1900 to 1930 and has obviously had the saw nuts or preened dowel replaced. The UK seller is 1917 but has a bent spine. Wood and Son seems to be a small fish in the backsaw world. I will my research at that and at some point either reshape my handle to look more like yours or make a new handle in your style. Here are some photos, the skate with the fancier lettering and the UK saw with the plain lettering. The skate can be found here. The virtual ice Skates museum | Welcome
It is page two under English club skates.

Fancy wanting out of such an exclusive club

If you want a photo or two of the handle in greater detail let me know - I can take a couple on graph paper if you want

brass washers (and peened dowel) make sense given there was on on my saw

Thanks for the offer of additional photos. I just took a good look at mine and the previous pictures of yours. I think I can just reshape my handle to look very similar to yours with minimal effort. I still have almost two months before my right hand is usable so there at least is no rush and I may trouble you in the future should my plan not work out too well. Again thanks for your input and help.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Fancy wanting out of such an exclusive club

If you want a photo or two of the handle in greater detail let me know - I can take a couple on graph paper if you want

brass washers (and peened dowel) make sense given there was on on my saw

I thought that with getting all these saws ready for use, I should treat myself to a sawbench or two
I did most of the work on them down at the men's shed over the past two or three months (probably longer) as I don't get down there every week

finally pegged the legs yesterday and found a little time today to pare the dowels back and give a bit of a sand

I'll give them a coat or two of wop for a little protection as they'll live out on the verandah

They sit about 510mm high and the top is 810mm long and about 180mm wide
made out of old oregon and seems a lot sturdier than the rickety stool thingy I've been using up til now
and loosely based on a Christopher Schwarz design

Saw Bench_3741.jpg Saw bench_3746.jpg