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Thread: Tomorrow is another (drill) day.
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11th August 2014, 12:25 AM #16Banned
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Tormek
Similar to the Tormek, yes I thought of that, but opted for this method due to the simplicity. I haven't finished playing around with the design process yet, still hoping for a brilliant idea to happen.
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11th August 2014 12:25 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th August 2014, 12:41 PM #17
Don't know if you have thought about it, but, I think you could possibly use the same jig to grind lathe tooling.
Having the grinder rest able to rotate like that means you could set up the angles needed ( I think )
Ray
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11th August 2014, 03:34 PM #18
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11th August 2014, 03:46 PM #19
Well miracles never cease,not the usual lost time effort?
It is something that might help,It is from Houston Home metal shop Club
Worth a look maybee?
Volume 9, No 9- September 2004
Grahame
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11th August 2014, 08:29 PM #20Banned
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Ballancing jigs and...
I already have jigs for sharpening lathe bits, use them for sharpening my DIY tangential and threading tool holder bits. They're for use on the same table. Currently making a table for the other side for when I get another decent stone.
Interesting article on balancing, similar to the method I used for balancing Triumph and Victa crankshafts. Unfortunately, my grinder has a rather nasty side to side wobble, which is what causes the rumble I think. It relies on circlips on a constant size shaft for seating the flanges against. I've made a couple of long aluminium flanges but the wheel still rocks from side to side rather badly. I'll either have to look around for a small grinder with a stepped shaft to locate the flanges against; or, Ive been thinking of building a two shaft, multiple wheel grinder. Even have the plans drawn up - just a matter of getting the necessary motivation. And of course I have to finish the drill sharpener table, another drill sharpener I've started, pedestal drill mods, welding table mods, lathe mill brackets, metal linisher, and , and, and...
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13th August 2014, 02:02 AM #21
Hi Th62,
I'm in the process of acquiring some material to make a drill sharpening jig similar to yours. I'm thinking about fabricating the "V" groove and drill clamp using 25 x 3 mm angle iron and making the box section from 3 mm mild steel plate with holes for dowel pins in each side.
I've also found a 200 mm double ended grinder in the scrap yard that needs a bit of TLC and a new wheel. I also have to make or find a 1/2" x 12 left hand nut for it. I couldn't find it, if there was one with it when it went on the pile.
So it seems that I've gained several new projects.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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13th August 2014, 10:35 AM #22Banned
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A nutty solution.
Left hand nuts are available from fastener shops in metric, UNC, whitworth and probably a few others.
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14th August 2014, 03:26 AM #23
Drill Jig Drawing.
Hi Th62,
Yes I will have a look around to see if I can find a supplier that has a suitable LH 1/2" x12 nut, though I might have to make one since I've been told that the original was a plate type with a pin wrench. Actually the nice bloke at the scrap yard gave me the wrench he says was with it, earlier today.
Anyway the new wheel turned up this afternoon. Its blue ! I've not seen a blue one. I've also stripped the machine and cleaned it. The bearings were shot so I've got a new pair and am giving it a coat of nice green paint. The stuff that was supposed to be "Myford" green, but isn't.
Re the drill jig, I've done a quick drawing of what I had in mind when I made the suggestion to you. After thinking about it I decided that if I did a drawing, if anybody else had some thoughts or input to add to this it would be nice to add them. I've attached the drawing. Let me know what you think.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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14th August 2014, 11:35 AM #24Banned
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Angles,apexes, gaps and protrusions - all to accommodate smaller drill bits
I have an old GMF 8" grinder which I use for running polishing buffss and a wire wheel. Missing for years was the left hand nut, same size and pitch you're after. I bought two from United fasteners. As you can appreciate, anything that is not standard attracts a premium price, in this case $10. Of course, it's always interesting to turn something a little different - a left hand nut is a pretty good example.
Be aware using angle iron in the manner you describe will limit the size of drill it will accommodate. I don't often do drawings of what I intend making, mostly keep it stored away in the head. One option I hope to try next is using two angles coming together at the apex, that way I can accommodate very small bits.
The design incorporates a thin gap between the two apexes. A static adjustment screw resides under one section with an adjuster nut running along it's length when the screw is turned. The adjustment nut has a small thin protrusion poking through the gap into the other half of the two angles where the drill sits and acts on the back of the drill providing forward momentum for the drill when the adjustment screw is turned. The jig can be mounted on it's side, so simply flipping the jig 180 degrees will enable the drill to be ground on the other side at precisely the same angle - as per your suggestion.
Difficult to explain, but when I have a mock up I will post.
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14th August 2014, 10:35 PM #25Senior Member
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15th August 2014, 02:14 AM #26
Hi Th62,
After doing a long search on the net and phoning a couple of companies that manufacture nuts, the best I could do for a one or two off was £5.50p each + carriage + VAT. (VAT=20%, value added tax) ! No way ! One guy quoted £5.95 just for the carriage.
So far I've not done any internal threading at all. So I've decided is about time I learnt how to. So that is what I'm going to do.
Wish me luck, I might need some. I've got a bit of mild steel hex bar that I can use. I would need to make a 55 degree tool bit and hope my little boring bar will go into a 10.4 mm hole. I'll take some pictures as I go along.
Be aware using angle iron in the manner you describe will limit the size of drill it will accommodate. I don't often do drawings of what I intend making, mostly keep it stored away in the head. One option I hope to try next is using two angles coming together at the apex, that way I can accommodate very small bits.
How small do you think that it would be feasible to sharpen with this sort of jig ?
The design incorporates a thin gap between the two apexes. A static adjustment screw resides under one section with an adjuster nut running along it's length when the screw is turned. The adjustment nut has a small thin protrusion poking through the gap into the other half of the two angles where the drill sits and acts on the back of the drill providing forward momentum for the drill when the adjustment screw is turned. The jig can be mounted on it's side, so simply flipping the jig 180 degrees will enable the drill to be ground on the other side at precisely the same angle - as per your suggestion.
Difficult to explain, but when I have a mock up I will post.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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15th August 2014, 11:57 AM #27Banned
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Sick bits and pieces.
Gerbilsquasher, the disclaimer was meant as a little bit of humour. I realise it's sick humour - but I use it frequently.
Baron J. I've turned a few LH threads, I found getting the bottom clearance, when turning small internal nuts, is the greatest difficulty. I balked at grinding/shaping the borng bar, so shaped the required threading bits from HSS blanks.
Incidentally you can also get left hand taps on ebay and aliexpress.
Here's one for $11: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-2-13-TP...3852fd1&_uhb=1
Probably not a 'quality' brand, but at 1/2" it'll be hard to break.
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15th August 2014, 01:35 PM #28Senior Member
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th62,
Baron is looking for a L H 1/2"W 12 TPI nut, not UNC 13 TPI. The LH Whitworth taps seem to be a bit harder to find now though . The idea is worth pursuing however. I found it cheaper to buy a LH M10 tap a while ago than to buy a few individual LH M10 nuts - would depend on the tap cost.
Frank.
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15th August 2014, 03:40 PM #29Still Learning
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Yep
I have so much to learn and skills to improve
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15th August 2014, 06:56 PM #30Banned
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Flying with a single wing is rough.
I made the mockup I spoke of earlier today. I think the problem is going to be trying to make it neat - very, very fiddly, probably better suited to a milling job.
The first pic shows the jig from underneath, the feed screw, the single winged adjuster nut and lock nut (thumbnut to come)can be seen. The next pic shows it from the top, the wing can just be seen poking through the slot. The other two are of the jig with a drill in situ.
It works well: just turn the knurled thumbscrew at the base and the single wing nut moves back/forward accordingly. When the single winged nut is in position, simply lock it off with the locknut (thumbnut). Not sure whether to continue with this design. It still needs a drill clamp and then I'll have to nut out how to mount it on a sliding base so I can flip it 180 degrees.
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