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  1. #391
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    Jul 2011
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    Melbourne Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    How close was the granite V block?
    Would you accept about 2um?. Give or take a bit of cosine error.

    I made a "Squareometer" (Trademark pending)

    P1010092.JPG

    I had a disc of toolsteel about 160mm round.I machined 3 round buttons on the face. Hardened, ground and lapped.Then I put a pole on it. Bit of a slidey thingy, a knob, and that Noga fine adjuster you gave me.

    P1010097.JPG

    You zero that against a master. Both my steel and granite tri-squares, and Ewans granite square, plus your cylinder square, all concur within a division.
    P1010093.JPG

    P1010094.JPG

    P1010095.JPG

    This is your worst face, a touch over 2. Your cylinder square came out of the box for the first time 10 minutes ago. It has a tiny bruise on one end. Do you want me to re-work it?
    P1010096.JPG

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  3. #392
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
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    74
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    6,132

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    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
    Your cylinder square came out of the box for the first time 10 minutes ago. It has a tiny bruise on one end. Do you want me to re-work it?
    Yes thanks, but only if you've got the time.

    I need to figure out when I'm going past next and organize a collection.

    Ray

  4. #393
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    3,277

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    What is the best & price economical option on a master square or angle plate??
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  5. #394
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    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    What is the best & price economical option on a master square or angle plate??
    You already have one... ( and the skill set to maintain it )

    You can use that to make and verify "working squares" for jigs and setup stuff.

    Ray

  6. #395
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    You already have one... ( and the skill set to maintain it )

    You can use that to make and verify "working squares" for jigs and setup stuff.

    Ray
    I have some castings I want to scrape in and wanted something more trustworthy than my block as a master.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  7. #396
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
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    I had some interesting news this morning. For those of you that follow some of the international forums. I put a hand full of photo's over at P.M. Just to show them we didn't have to pass the hat around for delivery pizza.

    Jan from Norway contacted me. He was the guy that organised Richard.K to fly to Sweden & Norway, a couple of months back. He will be in Melbourne mid - November, on other business.

    He wants to catch up, while he is here.

    (Insert evil laugh here). Can you imagine the ruckus if I undercut him on any follow up courses.

    I'm packing my barbecues. How does rollmop croissants sound?

  8. #397
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

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    You and Marco could do a European tour. We'll make a movie about it.How about

    "The Blue brothers scrape by in Europe"

    Michael

  9. #398
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,680

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    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
    How does rollmop croissants sound?
    can I come...just love em

  10. #399
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
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    P1010092.JPG

    Does any one have a back mounted tenth or 2um clock they want to sell? I'm working on version two.
    9146 Comparator Square.jpg

    http://www.subtool.com/tp/9146_taft-...or_square.html

    Regards Phil.

  11. #400
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,800

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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    can I come...just love em
    I also love all that pickled oily smokey fishy stuff . . . . .


    RE: Can you imagine the ruckus if I undercut him on any follow up courses
    Don't undercut - price match but offer your usual high standard of cuisine to swing the deal.


  12. #401
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post

    Does any one have a back mounted tenth or 2um clock they want to sell? I'm working on version two.


    http://www.subtool.com/tp/9146_taft-...or_square.html

    Phil,

    Regards Phil.

    I have a Baty 40mm dia. back lug tenth indicator that yours for nothing if it's of any use.

    Bob.

    PS I now see why you want a back mount, I hadn't looked closely enough at the photo. Again, if it's of any use you can have the flat back which would lend itself to the addition of a mounting stud.

    012 (Large).JPG 013 (Large).JPG

    And Phil, I won't feel rejected if someone offers you a nice Compac.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Anorak Bob; 10th October 2014 at 07:15 PM. Reason: photos added

  13. #402
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    Jun 2008
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    Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    And Phil, I won't feel rejected if someone offers you a nice Compac.
    Would you feel rejected if I offered Phil a 1 micron millimess... It needs a back mount made, but that would be a pretty easy job..

    Price could be negotiated in dumplings...

    Ray

  14. #403
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    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Would you feel rejected if I offered Phil a 1 micron millimess...

    Ray
    Nup, but a mount that holds the Mahr by its 8mm shank would in my mind be easier than eviscerating the indicator to access the rear. https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...49#post1289149

    BT

  15. #404
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    Jul 2011
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
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    Gentlemen.

    I have a Mahr 1 micron millimess guage, I looked at it the other day, and thought "thats messing with the laws of nature".

    But I think you have talked me into it. I'll try that.

    Can anyone confirm that the little adjuster knob in the body of the gauge moves the needle?

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...6&d=1299915683

    That Noga thing is nice, but in this application its very fiddly. Because the clock has to swing through an arc to find top dead centre, if you move it the slightest bit side ways while you are tuning the screw, you lose your zero.

    I'm thinking the springs need a bit of boosting, with it hanging out that far horizontally.

    I'm thinking a far more rigid plate carrying out further from the vertical beam, might be a nicer set up.

    I can drill and ream 8mm holes, so I'll give the Mahr a try. I'll just clamp him by the shank.

    Regards Phil.

  16. #405
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    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    Yes Phil, it adjusts the needle position.

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