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15th February 2016, 02:00 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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New workshop dust extraction install - build blog
After harassing BobL with a few messages of what layout to go with, I finally got a start on my DC installation on the weekend.
Also getting a start on modding my DC as per the sticky. Hope to see some blast gates in the coming week or two and get it all up and running.
The DC is going into a lined room out the back of the shed with acoustic batts in the walls to try and reduce the 'homicidal neighbor' syndrome that these things can sometimes cause. It sits beside the storeroom opening you can see in the pic, but can only be accessed from the rear of the shed just to help keep the noise and dust away as much as possible.
Will post some more pics, etc as the progress continues.
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15th February 2016 02:00 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th February 2016, 03:39 PM #2Senior Member
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Looks like you have put a few hours of preplanning into the lay out of the piping. Well done.
If I could ask where did you obtain the fittings and piping from as I am about to fit out my shed.
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15th February 2016, 04:15 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Cheers Nev - I have a tamed plumber that was able to get some reasonable prices from Reece Plumbing supplies. It was around $8 per 45 degree bend and $50 per length of pipe off the top of my head, but I will double check the invoice and let you know.
Edit - checked the invoice and I was right - junctions were $12 ea. Hope that helps!
Here is the lean to - still needs its final coat of paint..
And the section reserved for the dusty and air compressor -
(Solar flare for artistic purposes )
Still need to install a baffle and a little more soundproofing in the future, but it's getting there.Last edited by pintek; 15th February 2016 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Confirmed prices
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15th February 2016, 08:02 PM #4Senior Member
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Maxxsinner, Thank you.
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15th February 2016, 11:24 PM #5
If you harrassed Bob, I expect he has told you ... But just case ...
Your room that houses the DC will to exhaust to outside ... To clear fine dust and avoid back pressure build up.
Also, the door into that dc enclosure (if from your shed) is better to close with the DC pressure build up rhather than against it.
So .. if accessed from your shed, the DC enclosure door should open into the enclosure ... Any pressure build up you get will then force.the door closed and allow a better seal.
In my case, the door opens into the shed, which means the pressure is pushing the door open.
Like I said ... Just in case you hadn't thought.of it.Glenn Visca
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15th February 2016, 11:50 PM #6.
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It looks like an outside door to me.
It's also a sliding door by the look of it?
This makes it difficult to retain the noise but the rest looks great.
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15th February 2016, 11:51 PM #7
Right you are ! My bad ...
Glenn Visca
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16th February 2016, 05:25 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for the comments gents. Bob - you are spot on, the sliding door does make it difficult to sound proof but once the door is closed and bolted home it works surprisingly well. The door has acoustic batts sandwiched between the tin and ply panel and when it's slid into place, there is only a couple of mm gap between the door and the opening. Think I will be able to reduce that further with a few stips of hard rubber matting so when I bolt the door shut, it creates a reasonable seal. Won't be perfect, but should help.
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16th February 2016, 07:36 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Got the last section of pipe into the DC cupboard and capped off all but one pipe inlet just to give it a test run tonight - not perfect, but happy with the trial run.
<insert maniacal laugh and a disturbed cry of 'it's alive! here>
Was able to test the sound proofing of the door - 82dB with the door open and 66dB with the door closed. Room for improvement still but very happy with that result.
Now... to finish up some inlets... and then find an anemometer.
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16th February 2016, 08:45 PM #10.
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A 16dB reduction - is that with or without an exit baffle?
What distance were you from the enclosure, what height above the ground and what device did you use to do the SPL measurement?
I realize I have done noise level comparisons on the mens shed setup in the same way (i.e. door open and closed) but to get a better comparison between other members enclosures this is not the best way to do it.
The problem is that even with the door open some DC noise can still be absorbed by the enclosure (giving a lower initial reading) and/or reflected off the internal enclosure walls and funnelled out of the door (giving a higher initial reading).
So what the door open/closed test does is in effect test the effective of the door, but it is not a true indication of what the enclosure is doing.
The initial reading should be done with the DC in the open so enclosure reflective and absorption effects are minimised.
I realise the last thing folks want to do is disconnect their DC and takel it out of their enclosure so it's better to do the initial measurement before hand.
I will put up a thread about recommended ways to perform DC noise measurements so that we have a consistent way to compare enclosure noise reduction performances.
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16th February 2016, 09:20 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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Without a baffle Bob so it's just drafting through gaps at the moment until I make that mod (on the todo list). If you stand parallel to the door the sound level jumps back up due to the air gap that I plan to fill with thick rubber.
I was about a metre from the enclosure holding my phone without a cover at about eye height so say, 6 foot above ground. I stood in directly in front of the door to test as I was curious how well the door sound proofing was going to work and totally understand that it wasn't a true test of the enclosure. I was mainly aiming for a 60-70 dB system as I know the closest neighbors have double glazed windows and their central cooling runs at around 68 from 2 metres(ish) so as long as I am below that = no medieval pitch fork wielding neighbors.
We conduct sound tests at work so I will remember to get the calibrated sound level meter and give it another go to confirm.
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18th February 2016, 03:45 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Here are the figures with a calibrated dB meter for those that are curious -
Inside the DC enclosure
1 meter outside the enclosure with the door shut
And the all important fence line test - around 2.5M from the enclosure
I still want to put some acoustic bats on the roof and tin wall where the enclosure backs onto the shed, but happy with the result thus far.
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12th March 2016, 05:13 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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Finally found some time to keep going with the dusty install. Damn work getting in the way of play......
Blast gates arrived a couple of weeks ago - went for the 7 inch units as they have the ID of 6 inch OD storm water pipe.
Had to go up to the 20mm cylinders due to the length required.
Valve manifold installed out of harms way when I am swinging boards around like the three stooges.
Lots of cable ties still to go up to tidy the air lines and get the cable back to the controller.
Couple of the gates installed.
Opening the gates works great - they open quickly without being violent. Closing the gates is being a PITA with the outlet just dumping the air so they are slamming shut.
Must have a opening not blanked off somewhere. Shouldn't be too difficult to find but screw it... beer o'çlock.
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12th March 2016, 05:38 PM #14
Looks really good Maxx. If the gates are closing too fast you can screw an adjustable restrictor into the exhaust port and set the close speed to anything you want.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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12th March 2016, 09:57 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks NCArcher. I have installed a couple of exhaust restrictors (those exact ones!)
But its still passing as if it's not even there so it must be finding another path.
It will be something silly I have done/missed no doubt.
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