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Thread: Leather for lining drawers
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31st March 2016, 06:43 PM #1
Leather for lining drawers
I am after leather to line drawers, as the title states. I've not done this before.
Is there a specific type of leather required (my thoughts run to bookbinding).
Where do I purchase the leather in Oz?
And any thoughts on methods of lining (a) single large drawer, and (b) multiple box drawer (as per jewellery box).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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31st March 2016, 06:49 PM #2Intermediate Member
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Try ebay for leather, http://stores.ebay.com.au/Australian...p2047675.l2563 huge selection and large hides.
For great prices.
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31st March 2016, 06:57 PM #3
Thanks for the valuable link Nads, but first I need to know what to purchase!
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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31st March 2016, 10:39 PM #4China
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I purchase my leather from this mob D.S Horne: Retail and Wholesale Leather Sales in Adelaide, South Australia for the leather footwear, upholstery, garment, handicraft and saddlery industries. I'm sure there is someone local in WA
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31st March 2016, 10:43 PM #5
Hi Derek, I don't think there are any mysteries with using leather.
You can probably gets some from a local bootmaker.
If you have a leather lounge factory nearby, they usually sell leather and they have a good range of colours.
I got some nice leather from a leathercraft shop. They were even wiling to offer suggestions and provide good advice.
I was struggling to cut neat leather strips. They had a nail on one end of a workbench that held a long metal ruler. The leather was placed on the timber bench and the metal ruler hooked over the nail and across the leather. Hand pressure held ruler and leather in place while the cut along the ruler with a normal Stanley knife. A neat cut every time.
You can use any leather but Calf/Cow will be the most commonly available.
Wood glue or a spray contact adhesive will both work fine.
I hope this helpsScally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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31st March 2016, 10:59 PM #6
I should describe the drawers a little more.
They are in the chest I am building. There are three in all. The first is a single open "tray"(recess) that lies on the top of the chest, and is visible when the lid of the chest is lifted to reveal a mirror. This tray is used to temporarily rest earrings, etc when the mirror is used. Only the floor of the tray will have leather.
The second (and third - there are two) drawers are sliding trays (ala a tool chest), and these are fitted inside the top drawer. They will have several compartments, with the dividers in solid wood. As before, only the floors of these will have leather.
I have no idea what the difference is in the thickness of leather hides (such as from ebay) - and whether this should be an issue at all. I would prefer not to lose much depth, as the drawers are shallow already.
My thoughts run to glueing the leather to a 3mm section of sealed MDF (flatter and more reliable than thin chipboard or local ply), which may be dropped into the single tray at at the top. Similarly the two sliding trays in the top drawer, and then dropping the wooden partitions on top of them.
Ideas and feedback?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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1st April 2016, 06:11 AM #7Intermediate Member
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The thinnest leather would be kangaroo leather around 1.2mm thick.
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1st April 2016, 06:57 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Derek
Leffler Leathers have a wide range of leathers for various applications.
Yvan
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1st April 2016, 07:31 AM #9
Hi Derek, I use pigskin suede splits from NSW Leather.. It's available in many colours, and they will send small samples of various colours. They have a showroom/agent in WA.
It can be wet and pressed to shape to fit inserts if necessary.
Box 2.jpgSB5.jpg
For the bottom of boxes, I usually put 2mm craft foam under the leather, and glue the leather to it. The leather is only glued directly to the wood around its edges. For inserts, you can use either male & female moulds, or a male mould with expanding foam forcing the wet leather around it.
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1st April 2016, 09:36 AM #10
+1 on Leatherco. I've used them many times (for the same reason as AlexS). Speak to Jean Claude. He will send you samples. Whole pigskin suede splits are very cheap and highly effective.
http://www.leatherco.com.au/
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1st April 2016, 02:11 PM #11
Forgot to mention, I spray cereal box cardboard with a spray adhesive. Wrap the leather over that and again use the adhesive to hold it in the box. I use 3M's Super 77.
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2nd April 2016, 12:58 PM #12Senior Member
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Packer Leather are a top supplier of kangaroo and bovine leather. Can recommend.
Packer Direct - Home
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2nd April 2016, 06:19 PM #13
Just a point on gluing leather - PVA is good, and Titebond II is recommended for this method. It's often easier to coat both surfaces -leather and wood or foam - with the glue, let it completely dry and then, with the leather in place, re-activate it using a hot iron. A sheet of brown paper will protect the leather. Brighten it up with a suede brush and it's ready to go.
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12th April 2016, 08:28 AM #14Intermediate Member
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27th April 2016, 07:58 PM #15
Hi Derek,
Sorry I missed this post. When I did my study build - I used upholstery leather - which is/was quite common for infills on writing desks. It's around 2mm thick (perhaps a little less). Refer link below.
Study - WIP
I would suggest the "fineness" and consequently cost of the leather would rate as follows:
1. Garment leather (most expensive)
2. Upholstery Leather
3. Saddlery Leather (coming in various types, bridle leather, strap hide, etc. etc.)
4. Boot Leather (also coming in various types)
Traditionally, one used contact adhesive for gluing (father and grandfather used to have gallons of the stuff in stock and I still love the smell) ... but from experience - once it's on ... it's on. Rather than letting the contact adhesive "tac up", apply with the adhesive still wet giving at least some chance to re-position the leather if not placed accurately on the surface.
More recent developments suggest Titebond or even wallpaper paste as an adhesive. I have tried neither so can't comment.
I purchased mine from Lefflers in Melbourne - but that's primarily because my grandfather and father knew the proprietors (they were competitors). They were most helpful and send me brochures and even some samples for consideration. Not sure whether they have offices in Perth. If nothing else - you could give them a call and find out who they might recommend over there.
How much do you need ? I have about 1/4 of a complete hide left over from my study if that's of interest. Its a beautiful leather and top quality stuff (the complete hide cost me over $600.) If its what you want - I am sure we can agree a reasonable price.
Oh, someone suggested visiting a bootmaker. I would suggest not - as the majority of stuff they would use (or at least used to use) is pretty course stuff (notwithstanding materials to repair uppers etc.)
Hope this helps - and if you have any other questions let me know. I can always ask Dad.Glenn Visca
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