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  1. #406
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    Trev,

    Tried to find an error in your marking out - perhaps 1/2mm in the bottom boss

    That dowel as a lever looks grand - maybe you could have been a woodturner in another lifetime.

    Seriously - appreciate you extra WIP photos - gives us mortals a chance to see your prework and effort that goes into your builds - thanks. It's coming along beautifully with all the extra components being added

    Great Stuff

    Charlie

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  3. #407
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    I've spent the last couple of days working on the fins of the exhaust pipe on the rear cylinder.
    The reason for making them at this point is that their positioned very close to the gear-lever mounted on top of the gearbox.
    Best I make sure that I've got all of the angles right, before it all gets put into a frame and I find that I've got it wrong!.

    exh 1a.jpg

    The section of pipe can be seen in the photo above.
    As you can see it gets pretty tight between the top of the Gearbox and the Exhaust.
    So far things are looking fairly good.

    On the subject of exhaust pipes there's a variation of the Brough that as far as I know was never made that I'd like to try.
    My plan is to make a second set of pipes that can be interchanged with the standard one's on the 1926 model that I'm building.
    It would greatly change it's appearance, but leave me able to display the bike in either configuration.

    On the 1926 version of the Brough the exhaust pipes run either side of the bike.
    The pipe from the front cylinder going to the left of the frame and the rear pipe to the right.

    1926 Brough 2.jpg

    1926 model.

    That all changed with the next years model.
    The Magneto was shifted from the front of the frame to being mounted at the side of the crankcase, and the cooling fins removed from the pipes.
    It was also at that time the exhaust pipes gained their Brough look of both sweeping down the right side of the bike ending in fish tails.

    1927 Brough 1.jpg

    1927 model.

    Later Brough moved the Magneto back to the front of the frame, creating that truly iconic Brough Superior profile.
    Although the cooling fins remained a thing of the past.

    image.jpg

    It's that iconic Brough look that I'd like to add to the 1926 model and retain the cooling fins on the pipes.
    I think it would look fantastic and if it doesn't I can just leave it as a standard 26.

    Artistic Licence Love it!.

    Cheers
    Trev.

  4. #408
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    Yes - you are a true artist mate

    Regards

    Charlie

  5. #409
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    Mar 2005
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    Camden, NSW
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    It must be getting close to time to start experimenting with chrome and "exhaust blue" metallic paints?

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  6. #410
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    Mar 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletty View Post
    It must be getting close to time to start experimenting with chrome and "exhaust blue" metallic paints?

    fletty
    I'd like to say yes fletty but I think the Tassie winter may put pay to anything more than Primer.
    But I'll definitely be putting a lot of research into the matter!.

    As I'm about to move I'll be offline for awhile.
    But just before the internet is turned off here's the rear cylinder exhaust fins.
    The nut on the end will appear to hold the exhaust pipe in place when it's done.

    IMG_9457.jpg IMG_9462.jpg

    You maybe able to see a join inside the pipe, that's were I had to cut a slice out and reduce its diameter.
    I just couldn't get the right sized piece, so in the end I've used the old trick of heating the PVC up over the gas stove and reshaping it.
    Works well but by jingoes that stuff is hot!.

    The other thing you may notice is that the gearbox is on a slight angle.
    That's about the position it will be in when fitted to the frame.
    I've got it like that at the moment to check the clearance with the exhaust pipe.

    IMG_9460.jpg

    This section of pipe will work for both the versions of the exhaust.
    It's the front that will need to have two different pieces, one to take the pipe to the left (standard version).
    And one to the right (modified version).

    I'm really looking forward to having a go at making them, it should be fun with all the fins.

    Anyway folks I'll catch you after the move.

    Cheers
    Trev.

  7. #411
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Trevor, If you got the new place you showed us, that shed would take a wood heater so primer in winter, all good.....Peter

    PS - I pressed the wrong button above...apologies....

  8. #412
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    It's looking excellent Trev,

    Good luck to you and Tayne with the move

    Charlie

  9. #413
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    Engine looking good Trev. Good luck with the move, at least you will hopefully have somewhere nice and dry to work on the bike

  10. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    I pressed the wrong button.
    Story of my life mate!.

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith_1 View Post
    Good luck to you and Tayne with the move

    Charlie
    Thanks Charlie moves all done, great to have a shed to work in.
    Tayne worked out it's been more than 15 years since I've had the luxury.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dalboy View Post
    Engine looking good Trev. Good luck with the move, at least you will hopefully have somewhere nice and dry to work on the bike
    The sheds a beauty and it shows no sign of having water getting in.
    All I need do now is get used to all the space!.

    I haven't got a lot done with the move and all.
    But thanks to fletty and Fred the Sturmey Archer lettering is in place at the bottom of the gearbox.
    Although I must admit I had eight goes at getting on there.

    In the end I worked out to arrange the letters on a separate piece with the holes drilled in the same place as the gearbox.
    From that I could make a mould of it in plasticine and use the marks made by the holes to position it on the gearbox.

    IMG_9474.jpg

    With the lettering being so small and positioned at the bottom of the gearbox and behind the knick starter.
    It's not as if they will ever be noticed.

    IMG_9469.jpg IMG_9471.jpg

    But in the end I think all the little bits of detail add up!.

    IMG_9476.jpg

    The piece of PVC around the exhaust is to be made into a clamp.

    IMG_9479.jpg

    All I need to do now is sort the shed out a bit, and get a better backdrop for the photo's.
    After that I can just hibernate in the shed over winter and work on the Brough "Sweet"

    Cheers
    Trev.

  11. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Repliconics View Post



    With the lettering being so small and positioned at the bottom of the gearbox and behind the knick starter.
    It's not as if they will ever be noticed.

    IMG_9469.jpg IMG_9471.jpg

    But in the end I think all the little bits of detail add up!.


    Cheers
    Trev.
    At the end of the day you will know it is there and if you did not do it you will be niggled and always want to go back and do them

  12. #416
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    Yep,

    You are surely correct about the detail adding up mate. Looks spot on

    Charlie

  13. #417
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    Of course the moment I say anything about detail you can pretty much assume I've forgotten something!.
    This time it was the word OIL and an arrow pointing to the filler hole.
    It should've gone the gearbox cover at the same time as the Sturmey Archer.

    Still never mind it's done now.

    IMG_9507.JPG IMG_9508.jpg IMG_9511.jpg

    The first photo shows the letters made from bodyfiller in place on the gearbox cover.
    The shot of the plasticine shows what was left after I'd removed the letters I needed from the mould.
    It was taken from the lid of a Turps bottle, the letters are just about the right size 3mm.
    And the last one the letters and arrow after a clean up and a coat of primer.

    So where was I Oh yes detail and how important it is to get right!.

    Cheers
    Trev.

  14. #418
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    Trev,

    Thanks for sharing your tips with us. Looks great

    Charlie

  15. #419
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    I've been having some fun trying to get the clutch arrangement right so that the drive sprocket will line up with the rear.
    Bicycle hubs are to narrower to get an accurate 2/3 scale representation of the original wheels.
    So it's at this point I invoke the right of Duck Fudging!.
    That's to say scale be buggered just try to make it look as if it could be right.

    I found an old 10 speed bike and nicked three of the five rear sprockets off it.
    If you number them 1 to 5, 1 being the smallest and 5 the largest.
    I've put 2 as the primary drive sprocket which is the one on the crankcase.
    5 is the largest one you can see just behind the clutch housing (which is of cause PVC pipe).
    3 is behind 5 at the rear of the gearbox it's one that I really need to be concerned with.
    It needs to aligned with where the rear wheel sprocket will be.

    The engine is built at 2/3 scale and the hub of the rear wheel will be a little smaller than that.
    So I need to get the sprocket (3) as close to the gearbox as I can, without it looking like it's out of place.
    This is the Art of Duck Fudging!.

    IMG_9559.jpg IMG_9560.jpg

    IMG_9558.jpg

    As you can see I've got a ton of room behind the number 3 sprocket so that I can move it closer to the gearbox.
    The problem there is the closer it gets to the gearbox the more you draw in the sprocket in front of it in as well.
    That in turn creates a misalignment with the sprocket on the crankcase which ends up to close to the boss it's mounted on.

    IMG_9564.jpg IMG_9566.jpg

    It's all a bit of a nightmare but the one thing I've learned after doing it a few times on different 2/3 bikes.
    Trust your eye and don't measure a thing, with a little luck it will all work out.

    Having said that you may remember with the Indian I got it wrong and had to take to the gearbox with a saw (Good Times).

    IMG_9568.jpg

    But with this one so far so good!.

    Cheers
    Trev.

  16. #420
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    Looking sweet. I do jave an arbortec if it comes to it

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

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