Thread: Monday night Show'n'Tell

Yes, I'm pretty sure I saw a handle hanging on the wall quite recently.
I managed to carefully peel the price tags up this morning. They each have three stuck on top of each other, the 1" Titan starts at $3.47, down to $1.99 and finally $1.00.
The 14/16" Stanley, $2.99 down to $1.99 to $1.00. The 8/16" Stanley, $2.25, to $1.25 to $0.75.
It would be interesting to know what period the reductions spanned and in fact when they were on the market.
Cheers,
Geoff.

Although this find is 4 days late in posting these following came out of a charity shop and I know they aren't tools (so sorry to those in advance who don't like posting in wrong categories) they deserve airing in their beauty and usefulness.
The books are complete with all the plates intact and they are:
Mordern Practical Carpentry by George Ellis published Batsford (1906) and is a First Edition
The Hardwoods of Australand Their Economics by Richard Baker published he Government of NSW (1919) again a First Edition and one of the most magnificent book I have ever seen relating to my trade.
The magazines again are amazing They all are The Woodworker and are dated:
January 1 1904
February 1 1904
February 15 1904
March 15 1904
April 1 1904
April 15 1904
May 2 1904
May 16 1904
June 1 1904
I have had a quick glance through the magazines and are definately written for the "Gentleman Woodworker and very very informative with plenty of illustrations and ads and also as described in the last photo inserts for various inlays and plates.
Hope you enjoy the find
Regards Den
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Another late post.

Found these buried in the bottom of a 5gal bucket of odds and sods ... that cost me $5 at a yard sale last weekend.

Saw was all surface rust and flaking chrome,
Drill extensions looked like old railway spikes,

... Thank gawd for wire wheels and scouring pads ..

Retired from the army. Washed up on eBay. $59.

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It's not Monday ... It's not night but I'll put this out here anyway

4 x paint can openers from the recycling shop

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These are duplicates for me, but at that price I couldn't control myself.

10mm
13mm
16mm
19mm

I intend to sell them off. I'll clean and sharpen them before putting them into the marketplace.

If anyone wants them 'as is' PM me ASAP.

There's been some top finds since I last had the fortunate day shopping I did today.

3 saws 1 Spear & Jackson 1 Superior Brass back 1 Brass Back Osborne (Newcastle)

Turner Pope No4 for parts and some Whitworth dies

a fine sharpening hone plate on 2 bits of fence paling $8IMG_1765.jpgIMG_1763.jpgIMG_1764.jpgIMG_1761.jpgIMG_1762.jpg

Wish I'd had the $$$ lef to buy this little gem complete as it was

Wow, my gleanings were scant compared to that. Love the old brass backs.

This was all I found today. $15 which was a bit steep but it does look like some cool brassware underneath layers of varnish. I think there is a fixed pin missing. I'm presuming the purpose is to mark mortices with adjustment of both the fence and the moving pin which adjusts by the brass knob at the end. Will have to do some research.

Originally Posted by Bendigo Bob

..... $15 which was a bit steep.....

... I'm presuming the purpose is to mark mortices with adjustment of both the fence and the moving pin which adjusts by the brass knob at the end. ......

Not if it's Ebony or Rosewood, Bob. If that's what it is, you got a minor bargain, I reckon. But perhaps it's just dark lacquer on Beech? In any case, it should clean up to be a good user mortise gauge, which is indeed what it is. Someone has put the stock on upside-down. The locking screw should bear on the brass slider, to lock it firmly in place when you tighten it down.

Replacing the fixed pin should be easy, just find something that will fit nicely in the hole in the brass strip, chuck it in your battery drill & spin it gently against the running wheel to form a nice point. Cut it to length, & use some Loctite to fix it in place, and Bob's yer auntie. Some people like hard steel pins but a shaped nail does an adequate job in most woods you're likely to want to chop mortises in. The unfluted end of a broken drill bit is excellent raw material for pins, imo...
Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

The unfluted end of a broken drill bit is excellent raw material for pins, imo...
Cheers,

Aaaaagh! All those small broken drills I have thrown away were just the sharp end of a marking gauge. I never realised !

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Aaaaagh! All those small broken drills I have thrown away were just the sharp end of a marking gauge. I never realised !

Tch, tch! Waste not, want not, my lad.....

I frequently think of a good use for things the day after I've thrown them out!
Cheers,

Anyone used gramaphone needles as replacement pins on Mortise Gauges. Medium Tone Gramophone Needles Needles NEW Made IN THE U K FOR 78 RPM Records | eBay

Originally Posted by planemaker

Anyone used gramaphone needles as replacement pins on Mortise Gauges....

No, Stewie, I haven't, but I have seen gramophone needles recommended for marking gauges from time to time. I think people confuse the old needles with the styluses on later 33rpm pickups, which were indeed hard stuff (diamond & sapphire). In fact, the old 78rpm needles like the ones you have linked to are quite soft, they were supposed to be replaced after playing a single side(!), which is why they come in large packets as your link illustrates. I suggest you'll do just as well with a nail, and they are much cheaper.

If you really must have a hard point, McJings sells 1/16" bright steel rod - a few dollars buys enough for about 50 gauges. It comes soft (annealed) and is as easy to work as nails, but unlike nails, bright steel is hardenable (water quench). I've used it quite a bit for gauge points, but there's a slight problem. It's easy to harden, but such a tiny bit of metal is virtually impossible for me to temper without overdoing it, so it ends up dead soft again & I may as well not have bothered. What seems to work better is to quench in oil, the result isn't as hard & brittle (as far as I can judge).

For my own gauges, I usually just leave points soft - steel is, after all, a good deal harder than (most!) of the woods I want to mark. A point is easy enough to touch-up, when necessary, which I do about once very few years on even my most-used gauge. (I don't aim for needle-sharp, anyway, I need it to leave a line I can see. )

Different story with cutting gauge knives, these do need to be sharp, and hold their edge, so harder is gooder....
Cheers,

Out and about found these at a market


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Leather chisel roll with chisels and a stone


Also two sheets of copper plate 16# & 25# will come in very handy

An early start to the flea market and I swear the full moon is at fault, sent far more than I had anticipated.

One small tool box full of bits and bobs I past on twice before going back and in spotting a set of tiny gears which turned out to be for a Chinese min metal lathe not the Myford. Still 2 chucks on M2 taper, drifts x2, Sidchrome crack bar early 60's vintage, some large drill bits and a part box of bits made it worth it.

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During the week a friend sent down a set of 1/2" router bits

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At same flea market these nice little gems I set to and cleaned up yesterday plus the saw still doing this one.
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