Page 23 of 37 FirstFirst ... 13181920212223242526272833 ... LastLast
Results 331 to 345 of 551

Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #331
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 152 Keel Rubbing Strips

    After much head scratching and musing and taking Greg’s work on his keel into consideration, I have taken the plunge to also add Keel Rubbing Strips to the boat. This was a decision I wanted to make prior to putting her onto her new trailer, just to make life easier.

    So…I have opted for 1/8IN thick brass flat bar in lieu of the 1/4IN bronze that Greg has used. I was thinking of the weight, the dollars and the fact that she will be trailer bound most of her life. So far I have cut and fit the 4 major pieces and permanently installed the aft piece and subsequently ran out of screws! These are silicon bronze and are available locally but will take a couple of days to get them delivered.You can see in the pics that I haven’t gone down the same road as Greg with the termination methodology of the CB keel strips as I wasn’t comfortable with the very large points at the ends. I have opted for a more gentle approach and feel that this may be more in line with keeping the ends adhered to the Keel.

    I have utilised the tried and true Sikaflex 291 bedding compound by initially filling the screw holes in the keel then running a bead down either side of the strip before offering it up for permanent placement.
    I have used #8 X 1IN flat head bronze screws for this.

    P1010333-1.JPG P1010334-1.JPG
    P1010339-2.jpg P1010336-2.jpg
    P1010335-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #332
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Real nice as expected Laurie! I have since read about and would have seriously considered UHMW material for this purpose but, water over the dam.

    Do you have a metal shop in mind for making a mast hinge? If you go this way, I'm interested...

  4. #333
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 153 Rudder Completion

    So where have I been? What have I been doing? Really good questions and not a lot to share but here we go………

    First thing is, and I may have mentioned it before but, I lost all my pictures during an upgrade to the web site and I have been slowly but surely replacing the ones that were lost and today I have finally got my site back to where it should be! Heavens to mergatroid! What a bloody huge job to go find them and put them in the right place throughout my site. Bottom line is my site is fit and healthy again and all the PICS ARE BACK!

    The Rudder is now complete with hardware attached and the painting complete! Yahoo! Another item ticked off…although I’m still thinking about a small carving that I have that could go to go on each cheek. The last pic shows what it would look like if I attach it. Aaaah…it’s so nice to think about tiddly bits.

    P1010331-1.jpg P1010353-1.jpg P1010355-1.jpg P1010361-1.jpg

    P1010369-1.jpg P1010371-1.jpg P1010374-1.JPG


    Hi Greg...in answer to your question - no not yet but need to decide what to do soon as the mast fabrication is right round the corner! I'll let you know what the decision will be - need to get some quotes and don't think it will be cheap for a one-off fabrication.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  5. #334
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 154 Keel Rubbing Strips Cont….

    It’s going ahead but oh, so slowly…after the final fitting and bedding of the Strips I have moved on to the painting them. What to do?...much time was spent with my head buried in my iPad and finally decided on a way forward.

    1. Provide a covering coat of Rustguard SLS Etch Primer
    2. Followed by 2 coats of straight epoxy
    3. And finally 3 coats of Brightside (no undercoat)

    The biggest issue is getting at it – I completed the stern area and in frustration I have bitten the bullet and come up with a construct that allows me to get at the CB area and the bow without much more ado. All that remains now is to rough up the epoxy and apply 3 coats of Brightside and I can get out from under and get back to painting. Winter’s over so no more excuses!

    P1010359-1.jpg P1010358-1.jpg P1010357-1.jpg P1010356-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  6. #335
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 155 Keel Rubbing Strips Complete

    All done…3 coats on and just waiting for the paint to fully harden – a week I guess – then let her back down easy on the Strongback.

    P1010380-1.jpg P1010383-1.jpg P1010384-1.jpg

    In the meanwhile I have taken the opportunity to rub back the Transom and apply 2 more coats of epoxy. This is also done and just requires a rub back before readiness for varnish.

    P1010375-1.jpg P1010376-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  7. #336
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 156 Gunwale Stripe

    Well, we’re finally here! All done and dusted on the Hull paintwork. This was an area I stressed myself out on with regard the “should I, shouldn’t I” routine. I wanted the stripe but the vast majority of catboats don’t have one so I was pushing against the tide so to speak. In the end I had made the decision with the painting of the Topsides so it is what it is.

    Next thing was the colour – nothing fancy, nothing garish, nothing bright so went for the colour you see in the pics in the hope that it would assist to enhance the bright work. Considering the varnish is to come plus the deck is to be oiled bringing the whole thing up to darker tones.

    Six pics – three with tape and three without!

    P1010386-1.jpg P1010389-1.jpg P1010391-1.jpg

    P1010394-1.jpg P1010397-1.jpg P1010398-1.jpg

    Also please note that the handrails are not attached - just pushed in place as I want to be able to varnish them off the boat.

    On another front I have some minor work to do on my other sailing boat - an 18' Stornaway day boat that I built from a kit obtained from Scruffie Marine - so my work here will cease for a bit as I prepare her for someone else to enjoy, hopefully.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  8. #337
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Wonderful! Very nice choice! Hard to remember sometimes this lovely boat is just 12' long...
    Last edited by gregleetaylor; 28th October 2016 at 02:00 AM. Reason: change 12" TO 12'

  9. #338
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default

    Hi everyone I have fundamental question....should I oil the deck first or finish the varnish work first or it doesn't matter?
    Laurie - away from the sea

  10. #339
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    If you're going to use varnish, oil first is okay, though you'll need to wait a month to let it fully cure and soak in. I wouldn't oil first with polyurethane. It can go over it, but it's less compatible and it's peel strength will be weakened a touch. Personally, I see no need for the oil first treatment, if applying varnish or polyurethane over the planking.

    If you're looking to oil the deck only, then get your varnish work out of the way so these surfaces are protected, in case of a wayward drop spoiling the future bright work. I usually just tape off these areas with some plastic sheeting (polyethylene), so the raw wood can't get any oil or other contamination.

  11. #340
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 157 Deck Oiling

    OK… decision made. Considering the Rub Rails have been previously epoxied with a couple of coats of varnish added it is safe enough to proceed with the Deck Oil.

    Methodology no different to the Floor Boards.......

    • Organoil Pressed Tung Oil 100% Pure - 50%
    • Diggers Pure Gum Turpentine - 50%
    • Feast Watson Paint & Varnish Dryer is not added until I’ve put on 8 - 10 coats. This is mixed with the other two in the last coat at the end of the sessions @ 63mls/L

    To that end she’s all prepped and ready ie. sanded back with 320 grade paper, vacuumed, thoroughly washed down a couple of times with fresh water and taped up.

    P1010402-1.JPG P1010403-1.JPG P1010404-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  12. #341
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    You schedule sounds fairly typical, though after the first 4 - 5 coats go down, I decrease the solvent percentage, because the pores are sucking all it can and now you're just trying to fill them. If the wood started as raw, I'll apply a couple of coats per day for a week, before I can think about a drier. You may also consider some UV inhibitors (they're clear) in the last few coats, which will help the oil say longer. Excellent work as usual . . .

  13. #342
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 158 Deck Oiling Cont….

    So…thought it about time I brought everyone up to speed with where I am. It took over a week to apply the many coats of oil as mentioned in my previous post. What I can provide is that as each coat goes on it takes longer to soak in which I assume is a good thing. I took PAR’s advice and decreased the solvent percentage on the last coat so ended up with the following ratio ………

    • Organoil Pressed Tung Oil 100% Pure - 56%
    • Diggers Pure Gum Turpentine - 38%
    • Dryer - 6%

    It took a good week to dry and even then it was still not evenly dried in some spots due to the density differences in some of the deck planking. I have left it to dry even further whilst I have been contemplating my navel on the correct finish for all the trim and spars.

    I say that because I have applied a number of coats of Feast Watson Spar Varnish to the Handrails and have questioned my continued use of this product for the rest of the varnishing requirement. After due consideration I have decided to switch from FW Spar Varnish to another Australian product - Norglass Weatherfast Poly Clear. Reasoning is that I don’t believe the FW product would stand up to the constant rubbing of the Mast Hoops up and down the mast, the constant mast erection and dismasting and travel on the trailer. As you can appreciate I now believe the Norglass will provide a harder finish.

    P1010417-1.JPG P1010421-1.JPG P1010429-1.JPG

    P1010432-1.JPG P1010422-1.JPG P1010426-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  14. #343
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    California
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I am so happy that you restored the images. I am still learning from that on every step I am doing thank for the effort. Beautiful boat.

    Ofer Raz

  15. #344
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default

    Thanks mate...where's the web site for your build?
    Laurie - away from the sea

  16. #345
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default

    Sorry just realised you are in the US!!! Doh! �� I have your build on my iPad and all! ��Feel such a clutz!!
    Laurie - away from the sea

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •