Thread: Ebay Droppings Thread.

I'll scan them when I get them and email them to you.

thanks

I'll PM my email

I have an infill plane kit for sale currently on this forum.
Made by a Brisbane Patternmaker Ray Ingold in the 90s.
He also made some stunning small planes in Bronze and Stainless using lost wax castings.
This plane has Rosewood infill.
DIY
H.

https://s23.postimg.org/ddsjnrco9/No...0716_small.jpg

Here is a link to the norris paper. I found this on another listing (still haven't received mine, but mine will have a big blotch of unreadable text in the middle and this one does not).

I like that it says to sharpen with a washita (i sharpen with a washita). Of course, people these days think that's too coarse and would suggest that means they're saying to use a coarse stone, but their view from the context at that time was that people using carborundum stones and then whining about the edge should use something other than a carborundum stone.

I have, over time, gotten to the point where the washita edges are almost as good as a hard arkansas edge, though, and very long lasting. I can see why they were favored historically.

I have been on a binge lately (can't remember what I said here), and got two A5s. This paper came with a $533 A5 of late manufacture - it looks quite nice, but in getting two, I've grown to really hate the adjuster! I hope the buyer is a collector and not a user.

And I hope that the panel plane that I get has the single pitch adjuster and will be comfortable in work coarse enough to make use of such a fast adjuster. I would describe the adjuster, as I did on another forum, as feeling like driving a 75 horsepower 2 ton car with a 40 mile an hour first gear. The speed of adjustment is just way out of whack.

Originally Posted by clear out

I have an infill plane kit for sale currently on this forum.
Made by a Brisbane Patternmaker Ray Ingold in the 90s.
He also made some stunning small planes in Bronze and Stainless using lost wax castings.
This plane has Rosewood infill.
DIY
H.

Is there a sale forum? I don't see the plane anywhere, and I'm no threat to buy another kit as I want to make a few from scratch, but i'm always curious about the design taste that some of the kit makers used. Some are quite nice, and others blocky.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f275/i...tool-co-213664

It's called "The Marketplace." Tab at the top of the page.



Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f275/i...tool-co-213664

It's called "The Marketplace." Tab at the top of the page.



Regards
Paul

Too late anyway, D.W., it's on its way to me...

I've been wanting to make myself a larger infill for yonks, and seeing the kit prompted me to action. It looks pretty basic, and I couldn't see a cap-iron anywhere in the pic of the bits, but that's only a minor problem. I've made a couple of cap irons from some stainless steel I acquired, which seems to do the job. They've polished nicely & I don't have any worries about rust! But don't hold your breath - it may be some time before you see any "Done" pics. Got a few irons in the fire at present.

Interesting you say you hate the adjuster. In my early woodworking days I read about Norrises and their wonderfully clever adjusters, and wanted one 'real bad' as you say over your way. I kept my eyes open for one at a reasonable 'user' price, but it wasn't until about 12 years ago that I finally got to indulge myself. Well, you can add my name to the list of people who think the Norris adjuster sucks, in either the double or single thread form. As well as the 'sudden death' movement, it's designed to slew your blade when you move in either direction, unless it is sitting dead straight. Since you can't make lateral adjustments without moving it off-centre, it's a given that you are continually fussing with both lateral & depth adjustments if you are doing a job where you need to alter the cut. This is a 'set once & forget' type of plane - I use my good 'ol Stanley in any situation whenever I'll need to adjust depth of cut on the fly. I've got a couple of Veritas planes with their version of the Norris adjuster, and I wish they had found a better way! Vic. Tesolin was here demonstrating Veritas tools a while back, & I was amused when I saw his hybrid method of adjusting Veritas planes - he used a small hammer for lateral adjustments!

Needles to say, when I made my own (high angle) version of an infill, I didn't bother with any form of adjuster, it's a 'hammer set' job. It's easier to set than the Norris, now I'm used to it!

Cheers,

I copied these from somewhere that I posted them last night.

https://s11.postimg.org/bpkam89kz/P1100058.jpg
https://s11.postimg.org/yfjff7ssj/P1100059.jpg

I fancy myself as not being that big on infills, but this picture doesn't really show it. I kind of like to make them, though I've only made 3 1/2 (one of them I sent down the road earlier this year, so I only have pictures of two mixed in here).

The two offending A5s are on the right. I also got the Norris 2 on the far left. It needs to be used a little as the lever cap is a bit stiff in movement, but it works like you'd expect it to, and with the cap iron set properly, it doesn't matter if the cut is a tinge heavy, the surface will still be perfect. A delight that the A5s aren't.

I may keep one A5 (the uglier of the two) if it works better with the adjuster removed.

I found it easier to set the A5s in their slop range on the adjuster, tighten the lever cap down completely and then tap adjust for depth and do the same laterally. A shame, because for what you can get them for, the A5s are otherwise a wonderful comfortable plane to use - they feel nice. Even the later beech planes feel nice....except for the foul adjuster.

(I also couldn't get along with the LV adjusters. Work great for depth, but not a fan. Stanley perfected the metal plane, though they didn't make one that works absolutely great for beginners who don't know how to use the cap, once you can use the cap, it's pretty much superior to all other metal planes. there are so many alternate designs that talk about solving all of the "problems of the stanley", ECE is one still claiming that. Their primus plane is about half the plane that a common stanley bailey is).

I like that "want it real bad". Didn't know that didn't get used on the upside down part of the earth where you are. We also use the term "I can feel it where I pee" to emphasize things.

"I want that so bad, I can feel it a little where I pee".

Originally Posted by IanW

Too late anyway, D.W., it's on its way to me...

I've been wanting to make myself a larger infill for yonks, and seeing the kit prompted me to action. It looks pretty basic, and I couldn't see a cap-iron anywhere in the pic of the bits, but that's only a minor problem. I've made a couple of cap irons from some stainless steel I acquired, which seems to do the job. They've polished nicely & I don't have any worries about rust! But don't hold your breath - it may be some time before you see any "Done" pics. Got a few irons in the fire at present.

Interesting you say you hate the adjuster. In my early woodworking days I read about Norrises and their wonderfully clever adjusters, and wanted one 'real bad' as you say over your way. I kept my eyes open for one at a reasonable 'user' price, but it wasn't until about 12 years ago that I finally got to indulge myself. Well, you can add my name to the list of people who think the Norris adjuster sucks, in either the double or single thread form. As well as the 'sudden death' movement, it's designed to slew your blade when you move in either direction, unless it is sitting dead straight. Since you can't make lateral adjustments without moving it off-centre, it's a given that you are continually fussing with both lateral & depth adjustments if you are doing a job where you need to alter the cut. This is a 'set once & forget' type of plane - I use my good 'ol Stanley in any situation whenever I'll need to adjust depth of cut on the fly. I've got a couple of Veritas planes with their version of the Norris adjuster, and I wish they had found a better way! Vic. Tesolin was here demonstrating Veritas tools a while back, & I was amused when I saw his hybrid method of adjusting Veritas planes - he used a small hammer for lateral adjustments!

Needles to say, when I made my own (high angle) version of an infill, I didn't bother with any form of adjuster, it's a 'hammer set' job. It's easier to set than the Norris, now I'm used to it!

Cheers,

Ian,
Any chance the kitchen Reno can go on hold.
So you can start on the infill plane.

I'm sure the home front will understand if you explain we're all desperate to see how you go with it(cal it charity if you need to)

Cheers Matt

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Ian,
Any chance the kitchen Reno can go on hold.
So you can start on the infill plane......

Are you serious Matt??

I would risk serious and permanent injury to my person if I were to even suggest a stay of execution at this stage! We don't have capital punishment in this country, but what our better halves can do is far more painful. Nope, nay, non, nein and nada!! I won't even unwrap it when it arrives (wellll, I might take a peek just to see if all the bits are there....

Gonna do a Matt on this one, & take it reeeeal slow.

Actually, I made a few silly mistakes on my first infill, like getting the lever cap pivot holes a bit off, so I really will take this one at a leisurely pace, once I do get at it.

D.W., I'm afraid I don't like the Norris bun, either - how's that for a picky old so & so!? The sharp back is uncomfortable for the way I like to hold a plane, with my left palm flat on the top. I rounded the back off on my own, & it's far more pleasant to use: infill 1.jpg

My major mistake was putting the lever cap too far forward. I did it that way because I just drilled a hole in the blade bed for the cap-iron screw head. Had I been thinking with my brain, instead of goodness-knows what I was using at the time, I would have made a channel, so I could withdraw the blade assembly without needing so much clearance. As you can see in the pic, the lever-cap screw meets the blade at an angle instead of perpendicularly. It seems to hold ok, so it's more an aesthetic than functional problem...

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f275/i...tool-co-213664

It's called "The Marketplace." Tab at the top of the page.



Regards
Paul

thanks!

Nice kit. I couldn't source the materials any cheaper, the wood's dry, and it has an adjuster. Could've made a fibber out of me.

Originally Posted by IanW

Are you serious Matt??

I would risk serious and permanent injury to my person if I were to even suggest a stay of execution at this stage! We don't have capital punishment in this country, but what our better halves can do is far more painful. Nope, nay, non, nein and nada!! I won't even unwrap it when it arrives (wellll, I might take a peek just to see if all the bits are there....

Gonna do a Matt on this one, & take it reeeeal slow.

Actually, I made a few silly mistakes on my first infill, like getting the lever cap pivot holes a bit off, so I really will take this one at a leisurely pace, once I do get at it.

D.W., I'm afraid I don't like the Norris bun, either - how's that for a picky old so & so!? The sharp back is uncomfortable for the way I like to hold a plane, with my left palm flat on the top. I rounded the back off on my own, & it's far more pleasant to use: infill 1.jpg

My major mistake was putting the lever cap too far forward. I did it that way because I just drilled a hole in the blade bed for the cap-iron screw head. Had I been thinking with my brain, instead of goodness-knows what I was using at the time, I would have made a channel, so I could withdraw the blade assembly without needing so much clearance. As you can see in the pic, the lever-cap screw meets the blade at an angle instead of perpendicularly. It seems to hold ok, so it's more an aesthetic than functional problem...

Cheers,

Is that your first plane? Looks pretty good.

Not sure that the screw presents any problem on the slant. I haven't looked at any of my planes that were "officially" made by professionals, but the spier-pattern shepherd kit that I got was way at the end of the screw travel and on the slant. It locked up tight just fine.

https://s18.postimg.org/vat3qr1m1/shepherd_kit.jpg (video capture is all I've got of that - apologies for the quality of the picture).

That was a plane where the kit cost $600 and I sold it for $350 after I put it together (I could've boasted about the plane being great or something on ebay and probably got more for it, but I don't think that'd have been fair to the buyer - and the buyer was happy at $350, and I care about that more than I care about the money). Anyway, just another fine display of my business Savvy!!! Being minus 45 hours and 250 dollars after the whole thing kind of stung me where I pee a little bit. I still have a $100 chariot kit from shepherd that I didn't bother to touch. I'll bet it's worth at least $10.

At any rate, nice thing about making them once we know what we want is that we can make them the way we want. I think the A5 would be a great plane if the lever cap could lock down without affecting the depth of cut (my two don't yet, which suggests the iron is flexing or something - I'll have to figure that out - that's just as big of a pain as the adjuster, but when combined with the adjuster, the two issues together are a super pain). The older #2 is already that plane, though, so it doesn't make a lot of sense for me to do much with the A5s. the one that's more worn came from Oz - perhaps the person who sold it was a member on here. It has faint bits of engine turning left on the sides, but at some point, it rusted and someone ground them off. In its defense, someone used it enough to consume about 1/2 inch of the iron, which is a lot given how much of a pain the adjuster is.

(Aside thought - I'll bet you could still slowly chisel a ramp down to your drill hole so that it the iron is easier to get out. I know what you're talking about. The shepherd kit is kind of like that because the cap iron screw head is really deep and it sits inside the adjuster cup - you have to turn a lot of turns on the screw to get it out).

Originally Posted by D.W.

Is that your first plane? Looks pretty good.

Thanks, D.W., but you know how we are all our own worst critics. I should've practised a bit more before launching into the real thing, but being me & being impatient, all I did was one dovetail on some offcuts. It came out well & locked up amazingly, but I went & filed out the corners a bit more on the plane parts (just to be sure!). I quickly found that 380 machinable brass (the only brass plate you can readily buy down here) is not good for peining, & flakes pretty quickly if you try moving it too much. I saved the day by moving the steel more, but that means the edges are not dead straight & with the steel/brass combination it shows. But you have to look very closely to notice it, and they are certainly well-locked!

Yeah, I mean to cut out the channel in the blade bed one day, just to make it more convenient. I think about it every time I sharpen it, but I'm always in the middle of something else, so it gets put off til 'next time'.

And yes, I made the plane partly because of the challenge, but mostly because I wanted a really high-angle blade (60*)...

The slight advance in the A5 blade when the lever cap is tightened seems to be a universal feature of the type. My A5 (a post WW2 Beech & Mahogany mix infill) does the same, and I've seen other people mentioning it. It can be useful when you want to make tiny incremental increases to your cut, & much finer than you can achieve with that clumsy screw. I haven't noticed it so much with my home-built job. I wonder if it has to do with the wood I used for the blade-bed - it's She-oak (Allocasaurina torulosa)? It's not quite as hard as its cousin, A. leuhmanii, which is supposed to have the highest Janka hardness of any wood, but not too far off! Beech & mahogany would compress much more under pressure than She-oak, flexing the blade a little. Trouble with that theory is that when I try to imagine the effect of the blade flexing that way, it seems to me that it should rotate the cutting edge forward a fraction, since the chatter-block isn't going to move, & that should reduce the cut, not advance it?????

If anyone can convincingly explain the mystery, I'd be grateful....

Cheers,

Beech has pretty good strength and wouldn't move under the lever cap, at least in my experience. There must be something about how the lever cap locks up that it pushes the iron down. I'll probably be less annoyed with it once I develop some touch.

I have indian rosewood for the couple of infills I'd like to make, but I never know for sure what I'm getting from people when I order wood online. Plus, the rosewood that's plantation grown is almost nothing at all like the old growth stuff found in 125 year old planes (which might explain why the new stuff is light).

I've got beech that's been around long enough that it's dry dry, and may use that in a plane just because of how nicely it works. It does make for a funny looking infill, though - if it's left natural color.

I hear you on the brass. I used pins with secondary bevels cut on them, which makes bigger voids to fill than dovetails. The plane with the big dark bun is one that I used that method on. Ends up looking like true dovetails because the pins are filed in that shape. Long story short, O1 steel does not move nearly as easy as low machinability brass or mild steel. I cracked some stuff, too, and really had to beat on the pins in general to get everything to close. The brass and mild steel on the shepherd kit were almost too easy once I had a chance to do them.