Thread: New to wood working . What tools to buy?

Originally Posted by IanW

I assume you're using a drill with a keyless chuck? If you have an old corded drill with a keyed chuck, it will get a much better grip & you should be able to back it out. Failing that, locking pliers will get enough of grip to back it off, but you will probably mark the shaft up. There are heroic methods, like the 'hot spanner' (putting an oxy torch on it & heating it to cherry read). That chars & dries the wood enough that it will usually let go, but it's a desperation procedure when you just want to get the damn thing out & you don't care if the bit is henceforth unusable. I think locking pliers are the least risky 'tough action'.

If you do get your drill out more or less intact, the trick to drilling hard woods is to spin the bit at as fast a speed as you can, and withdraw it every 10mm or more to clear the lands.

Cheers,

No it was a chuck drill. Think I just left it in too long without clearing the drilled hole. I'll try the locked pliers tmw too. Lesson learned. Go easy with hardwood. :/ thanks for the advice.

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Vice grips are (is?) my go-to tool when all else fails!

Sorry, I may have misunderstood the problem; my thoughts were that you had a 5mm hex bit stuck in a wood screw hence the "wiggle with a tube" extraction method. Your issue is actually a stuck drill bit?

As the others have said; vise grip pliers and back it out anti-clockwise. Aussie hardwoods are notorious for generating almost impossibly large amounts of sawdust when cutting by machine which causes blades to bind and jam; for sawing you need deep gullets to clear the waste and when drilling you must constantly clear the drill flutes. WRT high speed drilling though; if the drill flutes are clogging with burnt wood you need to back off the speed or take shallower "bites".

Yet drill bit stuck. Got some mole grips and will try them tmw anti clockwise. Thanks

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Originally Posted by paul.aldred1

Yet drill bit stuck. Got some mole grips and will try them tmw anti clockwise. Thanks

Haven't heard them called that for many years! I have a 1980's pair of genuine Mole grips in the shed; can't think of anything that ever defeated them.

Yes I'm English, call everything by a brand rather than the generic name.

Couldn't get the drill bit out, I snapped it and then drove it in like a nail.

Frame all complete, just waiting for glue and dowels to dry completely before doing anymore. Plus I need to buy the wheels and the wood for the top.

Can anyone recommend any types of wood for the top, I emailed sandgate wood mill to see what they had in stock and if they could recommend anything but haven't heard back yet.

Its not perfect but its perfectly level on the top and I walked across the beams to check that it was all good.


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Hi there.

I think the only way to put your workbench on wheels is this Rockler set https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnSY6gpeRDY
Unfortunately I don't seem to find them been sold anywhere here in Australia and on eBay they cost like double the price they pay for that in the US.
Still I think it's the only solution to move AND work.

Originally Posted by Pagonelos

Hi there.

I think the only way to put your workbench on wheels is this Rockler set https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnSY6gpeRDY
Unfortunately I don't seem to find them been sold anywhere here in Australia and on eBay they cost like double the price they pay for that in the US.
Still I think it's the only solution to move AND work.

Amazon.com have them for $79 USD and ship to Australia. Will need to measure then up in the position I need them , cheers for the link

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These are also a great alternative to wheels but sadly the plate is too large : (37) Adjustable / Levelling Up to 500 Kg - Castors Galore

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Originally Posted by paul.aldred1

These are also a great alternative to wheels but sadly the plate is too large : (37) Adjustable / Levelling Up to 500 Kg - Castors Galore

Nice !!

Could THESE be made to work? 70kg per foot and Timbecon have them on clearance for $30 a pair

Found them : https://www.timbecon.com.au/site-sho...ble-castor-set

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Hi Paul,

Does your workbench need to be on wheels? As in do you need to move it regularly ie you need to park your car in the bench space when bench not in use?

I find casters on workbenches more of a nuisance then good, as it just adds another spot where movement/flex can occur. Plus unless you're prepared to spend $100+ per wheel the braking mechanism isn't all that effective so under load eg sawing/planing the bench wobbles.

On the other hand if you do need to move it, there are ways around it eg i probably move mine once every couple of months to clean behind it, i've got a couple of furniture dollies (link below) which i place under the legs and drag it around. Once done, they pop back into a drawer and voila rock solid work bench with no movement.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/move-it-...olley_p3940204

So looking at benchtops currently thinking of these two options. Thoughts please.

1) plywood - https://www.bunnings.com.au/bc-deco-...coply_p0390218
2) beech laminated - https://www.bunnings.com.au/2200-x-6...panel_p8330041

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