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  1. #451
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    Steve,

    Really look forward to your visit, coffee and railway discussions.

    Regards

    Keith

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  3. #452
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    You bet! I'll bring my HO Heisler and Shay
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  4. #453
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    The screw coupling and vacuum pipe look good.
    I feel the iron guards should be the same distance apart as the wheels. While I do not have an image as reference, they are usually above the rails to clear any obstruction.

  5. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by seriph1 View Post
    You bet! I'll bring my HO Heisler and Shay
    I can fire up my G Scale live steam as well

  6. #455
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    I have done a bit of research since Kevin's (Handyjack's) post. Kevin is correct - I will need to reposition the back and front guards. May need to remake them as they are at an offset beside the buffers.
    Will need a bit of thought on the design to get this correct - Thanks Kevin

    Regards

    Keith

    IMG_7396.JPG

  7. #456
    crowie's Avatar
    crowie is online now Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Just reading back a few posts, I get the feeling that it could be a Forum Get Together in the making?????

  8. #457
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    Seeing your last post Keith I thought I had been asleep for a long time and missed a lot of the build then realised it is a photo of the real deal



    Hope you guys do manage a hook up always great to meet others with the same interests, don't forget the photo's for those of us to far away.

  9. #458
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    My paintwork is going to take a long time Derek.

    Full dismantle and paint each component separately. Have to work out a method of inventory numbering as components will only go back together one way

    I think it will be a lengthy period of paintwork and re-assembly.

    The original loco does look beautiful doesn't it ?

    Regards

    Keith

  10. #459
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    Hi All,

    Following Handyjack's excellent comment yesterday about the positioning of the iron guards at the front and rear of the locomotive - today I made up a new set of front guards so they will position directly above the rails to protect the wheels.
    Because the buffers are also directly above where the track will be - the guards are offset (as is the prototype). This made it a bit difficult getting the bends correct. I used 10mm X 3mm flat aluminium bar. I cut a length nearly twice as long as I needed to give me a bit of "playroom" to get my lengths correct. The twist was done in the vice using a shifter and then had to make up a little"dolley" to get in so I could hammer the bends correctly. Unfortunately for me a bit of blood was spilled, but that is OK as I got it correct eventually.
    Filled in the previous holes I had located the old guards in position, then sanded back and primed.
    I cannot make up the rear set for the tender until I make up and position the rear buffers. Glued up my timbers - so the next step will be wood turning the buffers and housings.

    Thanks again for your comments Kevin

    Regards

    Keith

    147.jpg

  11. #460
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    Dec 2015
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    Alabama usa
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    Was looking for some ideas for my train and found these.
    Capture5.jpgCapture8.jpgCapture9.jpguk.pinterest.com.jpguk.pinterest.com2.jpg

  12. #461
    Join Date
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    A pretty thing!
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  13. #462
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    They are ALL beautiful - no matter which one you choose. Thanks for the photos.

    Regards

    Keith

  14. #463
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    Hi guys,

    Been working on the rear buffer assemblies.

    Mucking around with different techniques. I bought a 1 metre offcut length of pine at Bunnings - only cost a bit over a dollar.

    Cut it in half and then glued and clamped for a day. The cut into lengths for the buffer housings and the buffer. Centre drilled and then turned each of the components in the wood lathe. Used a forstner bit for my hole into the housing that takes the buffer.
    Back plate is 3mm MDF

    Dowelled the back with 12mm dowel that fits into the buffer plate.

    Now onto making the steel guards for tracks and wheels (out of aluminium) now that I have the position of the buffers.

    Regards

    Keith

    148.jpg 149.jpg 150.jpg 151.jpg 152.jpg

  15. #464
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    Buffer looking good Keith and you are certainly getting the knack with the lathe.

    One thing to be aware of is chucking on a centre join in wood if you use any centres that has a point it can force it apart even just glued. I have however noticed at the tailstock end you are using a ring centre which is ideal as it straddles the join. Who am I to talk being a novice at this turning lark

  16. #465
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    Soooooo beautiful mate. Makes me wanna go back to York to see my favorite loco again
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

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