Results 616 to 630 of 697
Thread: GNR Stirling Locomotive
-
26th August 2017, 09:38 PM #616GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
-
26th August 2017 09:38 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
26th August 2017, 09:47 PM #617
Copper rings would be a crowning glory.
Steve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
-
27th August 2017, 09:58 AM #618GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
That's a definite Steve, but won't be real copper or brass - but will look like it.
Regards
Keith
-
27th August 2017, 10:35 AM #619
Real copper is easily achievable if you want them
Steve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
-
27th August 2017, 02:06 PM #620GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
The locomotive and tender section of the build has now been completed. Finished the rear buffer assembly and brake linkages. Also added the GNR on the side of the tender and fitted the brass handrails.
Now onto the new lamps and then onto the tracks/sleepers/ ballast.
Regards
Keith
197.jpg 198.jpg 199.jpg
On the Footplate 200.jpg
-
27th August 2017, 04:23 PM #621
Your mentor would be mighty proud of this one x100
The person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
-
29th August 2017, 01:56 PM #622
Great to see the almost finished project in real life at the weekend. Helps you to appreciate all the effort that has gone into the making of all those tiny little components.
No slacking off now and playing with that new toy you have(not the mower)Dallas
-
29th August 2017, 05:58 PM #623
-
29th August 2017, 07:54 PM #624GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Anyone can come around - have a beer and a chat.
The toy Dallas was talking about was the HO layout I reckon. Thanks for the comments Dallas.
The lamps are coming up pretty well - probably post some WIP photos tomorrow. Thanks heaps to Fletty for the lamp photos.
Regards
Keith
-
29th August 2017, 09:37 PM #625
-
29th August 2017, 11:54 PM #626GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
We have a spare room Derek, but I can't afford the airfare (me being a retiree and all )
Seriously - wish you were closer to Australia (or us closer to the UK) so we could meet up.
Just had a thought - why don't you come out for the Ashes Series - Test will be over in 3 days - then we could catch up
Regards
Keith
-
30th August 2017, 01:32 AM #627
-
30th August 2017, 09:18 AM #628GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Yes , I love the mechanical items as well.
The beauty of the early locomotives (such as the "Rocket" and Crampton) was that the mechanical components were well exposed and you could marvel at the ingenuity of the designers / inventors.
Regards
Keith
-
30th August 2017, 04:17 PM #629GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
Remade the lamps as per the sample Fletty photographed (thanks mate)
I used radiata pine as the body of the lantern. Used 2 different size forstner bits to get the profile of the miniature downlights I used.
I used icypole sticks on the back to create the opening for the lantern brackets. Then used table saw to cut a 2mm thick pine backing piece for the lantern.
The ring is also pine. I turned it to 32mm OD and then bored it with a 25mm forstner bit. Then cut the rings off with a hacksaw. Mucked up a few as they split but eventually got the 4 done. I painted them with the "Rustoleum" copper spray paint I got from Bunnings.
The top "opening" of the lantern is turned out of 25mm round aluminium.
Next is the base support and tracks. I am going to use Tassie Oak for the actual rails. It seems to hold it's shape (less warping) than other material I have tried for the tracks in the past.
Regards
Keith
202.jpg 201.jpg 203.jpg
205.jpg 204.jpg
-
31st August 2017, 09:42 PM #630
A much improved lamp.
I always felt your lamps were a bit squat, but this time the distortion has gone and they are more realistic. It is probably better to do all the lamps at once rather than lamps for the front at the start of the project, and the rear lamps some months latter.
If you were making a live model, most makers would probably do both front and rear buffer beams and couplings at the same time as essentially they are virtually identical.
Are you likely to redo the lamps on the D4?
Similar Threads
-
City of Stirling Men's Shed Open Day
By Malcolm Eaton in forum MEN'S SHEDS / MEN IN SHEDSReplies: 0Last Post: 27th November 2015, 09:03 AM -
Stirling Engines in Australia
By STEAM in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 12Last Post: 4th November 2011, 07:57 PM -
Stirling engine help
By xXvapourXx in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 14Last Post: 9th July 2011, 11:35 AM -
Stirling young Chap
By wheelinround in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 23Last Post: 31st March 2010, 10:06 PM