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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #361
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    Default 164 Boom and Gaff Jaws

    We continue after much dithering with other stuff.

    First order of business is the Boom Jaws – not a big deal just photocopy the picture provided in the Wooden Boat magazine #59 to the right size and bingo we have a template! Some minor work required to marry up to the dimensions of the actual Boom which will need to be done later but in the mean-time paste the photocopy to the wood after joining the cut pieces together and trim until satisfied all done.

    P1010362-1.JPG P1010539-1.jpg P1010538-1.jpg

    Second order of business, the Gaff Jaws and unfortunately nothing but angst here as I haven’t been able to steam bend these without breakage. I believe it’s a combination of mixing in unsuitable timber, incorrect grain orientation with incorrect steam time. I never had any issues in the past so after three attempts the frustration has become immense for such a simple job! I guess that’s what you get for attempting to cut corners. I have one piece that I’m happy with and need 7 more!!

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    Laurie - away from the sea

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  3. #362
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    Default

    You've identified the usual suspects when steaming goes bad. If you have good stock, with appropriate grain, the main issue isn't time in the steamer, but how much heat. On species that like to bend, I use a heat gun and bend dry. On species that don't like to bend (mahogany, for example) I use a good long soaking (water), then a heat gun, sometimes coupled with a round in the steamer. What the heat gun brings to the table is maintaining the heat. Once you pull something from the steamer, you have literal a few minutes. The heat gun can increase this time considerably.

  4. #363
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    Default 165 Gaff Jaws

    Thanks for the advice Par - always welcome! However, After many pieces of broken wood I think I finally got there. The proof will be in pudding when I think I’ve given it enough time to dry out – a few days away!!

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    In the meantime the hunt has been on for the timber to make the frame to lift the boat and get it onto the trailer. This will be my next little project!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  5. #364
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    Default 166 Gaff Jaws Cont …

    I have removed the Jaws from the mould and am happy enough with the outcome. The only thing that may be an issue is the width of my pieces of wood. We’ll have to wait and see.

    On another point I searched everywhere to find the correct placement of the template on the bent timber as the info provided in the plans in the book, nor any other book I have for that matter, including surfing the net came up zero in the actual placement of the throat of the Jaws in the bend. After much dithering and head scratching decided that the centre of the bend on the upper surface should bear against the mast. Welcome any feedback on this before I start cutting!

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    Laurie - away from the sea

  6. #365
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    Default 167 Mast

    It’s been awhile but have been busy with lots of stuff with nothing gained! I decided that I would order and await my sail before proceeding with the Spar requirements. To that end I am now in a position to go down to Brisbane next week and with fingers crossed, pick it up. With that in hand I can go forward.

    In the meantime, I have attempted two things and failed at both – one not my doing but the other was. I have been attempting to cut my Spar timber and came up against some bad wood during the cutting/planing process which required me to order a couple of replacement sticks. On its arrival it was completely no good so have lost 5 weeks in that space and still don’t have what I need! - so nothing happening with the Mast until my merchant can get what I’m after.

    Also, have had a go at steaming and making timber Mast Hoops. Without going into detail suffice to say that has been a failure also. More time lost….so now I’m looking at a Long Spigot Concentric Reducer (mouthful huh!) A bit of plumbing paraphernalia. Basically, a PVC pipe joiner that has some thickness to it (12.7mm), right diameter (140mm) that can be cut up to the width required. My calculations are as follows…….
    140 OD – (12.7 thickness X 2) = 114.6 ID – 90 OD of Mast = 24.6 Gap which is approx 27% of Mast Dia. And with my past experience in the leather working space, stitch some on and hopefully “Bob’s your Uncle!”. Should get 6 Hoops out of one Reducer or maybe get an offcut off a bit of pipe with the same dimensions. Just another attempt at going forward.
    Last edited by DavidG; 25th January 2018 at 06:57 PM.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  7. #366
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    Hello Laurie!

    I have some how missed a few of your posts... I thought you might not be posting and wanted to send you a note to see how things were going. I see the usual determination and problem solving! Note: my 18' cat boat has pvc hoops and they're good! I tried wood hoops (purchased from a pro) and they deteriorated fast!

    I am planning on mast wood sourcing and construction for the coming months before I have to retreat inside for the winter. I hope to wheel my planer & table saw out to the back as I cant pass the long sticks though in the basement. I am taking dedicated time of from work mostly to work on the boat. We'll see how it goes...

    Best,

    Greg

  8. #367
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    Default 168 Mast Cont…

    Hi Greg…no posts missed - just me attempting to move forward but keep hitting those things called walls! Great to see you’re on to the spars already. Moving much quicker than me!

    However, I am finally progressing - I have given up on the local timber joint, cancelled the order and proceeded to salvage all I can from my large ceiling rafter. To that end I have been able to get the number of staves necessary and with a bit of finesse and the inclusion of some drilling and dowel insertion to remove nail holes, got myself a way forward. The majority of these repairs will be at the base of the mast where it is filled with an insert to make it solid anyway so am relatively comfortable with that.

    So, where am I at today? The staves have been dimensioned, had their 90degree angles cut in one edge and I have moved on now to the tapering of both ends. Have cut the top ones and have them stacked ready to cut the base ones. The hardest part will be the final planing of the tapers with a hand plane – daunting job but hope it all goes well! I had one extra stave that was not thick enough that I cut and planed to shape to use as my template and it turned out OK so…..a big sigh and a thank God moment! It is great to be moving again!

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    Last edited by DavidG; 25th January 2018 at 06:57 PM.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  9. #368
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    Timing is everything !!!! You have helped with every step along the way; you know that by now. I'm heading on a 2 day trip to drive for spar spruce in a week. I have read the technique but it sure helps to see it done.

    Here's one I haven't been able to puzzle out...:

    The spar plan shows gaff and boom tapers for one side only leaving the sail contact edge straight. Makes sense but...

    The mast plan also SEEMS to indicate an asymmetric taper which is applied only at the ends as you know. I interpret this as symmetrical taper in construction. How do you see this please?

    Oh, I'm so slow to get things done and I've made so soooo many errors. I'm pushing myself for a spring(June) '18 launch but I wont shortcut just to make next year's sailing season. I'm just doing the best I can to get there.

    Thanks as always Laurie!

  10. #369
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    Hi Greg...thanks for following along with such patience! The answer to your question is in the affirmative - note that the Mast is 16'6" or 198" OA so lets start from there.
    198 - (at the the base 24+15) + (at the head 21+18+18) = 102 or 8' 6". The 42" long taper is not worth worrying about @ 1/4" in that length.
    Luff of the sail is 9' 9" so we are really only worrying about 15" and even then that taper is also not worth worrying about.

    However, there is one thing I haven't mentioned though and that is that the diameter of my mast at the tip has been increased to just over 2" with the subsequent increase in taper ratios to cater for the internal diameter of the mast head fitting I purchased. I figure it won't make that much difference to the weight aloft and shouldn't impact the how the sail will hang considering hoops will be in use. Make sense?
    Cheers
    Laurie - away from the sea

  11. #370
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    Great Laurie! sounds right to me and appreciate the spec on masthead diameter you're using. Always a challenge to find it...

  12. #371
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    Default 169 Mast Cont A…

    Well that part’s done – all planed up and test fitted and lying there awaiting assembly but need the internal plugs.

    Work has now commenced on these…they will support the Mast at the base and the Masthead. It’s basically a repeat of the bow Mast Support. Also, after some consideration, I will add some reinforcement to the Gaff location.
    I decided to use the left over Paulownia timber used to build the hull. Unfortunately it means gluing 8 pieces together to give me the dimension required for the base but it will do the job and save weight at the same time. It is a light, fine grained, strong and warp resistant hardwood…260-290/cu³. The Masthead and Gaff area are much smaller so if I can conjure up some Oregon for that.
    Check out this!!

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    Last edited by DavidG; 25th January 2018 at 06:58 PM.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  13. #372
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    Default 170 Mast B…

    So both Mast Base and Masthead plugs have been manufactured and are sitting awaiting the assembly of the Mast. Still considering the Gaff location piece!

    I decided to follow Jim Ledger’s Mast assembly procedure and this is well underway with four pairs of sticks all glued up and am in the process of gluing two together to make the first half. This process entails a bit by bit approach and am very happy with the results so far. Also it’s a stress free process, no rushing against the clock etc. The only issue that I see is timeframe and as a home builder, who cares!

    However, it does mean that the work in completing the 90Deg cutouts in one edge of each stave needs to be accurate along with all other dimensional requirements. The proof will be in the pudding when I go to affix the two completed halves together. Close now!

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    Last edited by DavidG; 25th January 2018 at 06:58 PM.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  14. #373
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    I assemble birdsmouth similarly, though I do one half at a time. On a spar that size (small), I'd do both halves at the same time, with a slow hardener, so I have the working time to get the goo down. I place a length of clear plastic between the two halves and clamp up normally. When cured, I can easily separate the halves so I can install swallowtails and plugs (reinforcements). Once the mast is ready to completely assemble, halyards, wires chases, etc. installed it's a simple glue run, with just two seams to contend with. I also use cradles to hold the mast pieces in alignment while the epoxy cures and my favorite clamp is old bicycle tire inner tubes, that are cut and tied on as needed. They place just the right amount of pressure around the mast and are easy to adjust and remove. I've also used shrink wrap tape, as a spiral wrap clamp, which works well too. I've used hose clamps which work, but can dent the wood easily and also can be a pain to install and reinstall. Wire ties work good as well.

  15. #374
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    Thanks for all this Laurie; PAR... The staged approach seems easy to control but I worry that the individual glue ups of two or 4 staves be lined up for final, correct octagonal fit if not joined 8 at once. The taper method used for birdsmouth is trim back the non-mouth edge. I plan to do this for the top section.

    I am building the same mast, using the plastic 1/2 and 1/2 method; slow hardener; am I really gluing all the joints save two at once in the fist clamp up?

  16. #375
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    At this stage of the build multiple glue ups shouldn't create a problem, the whole boat is multiple glue ups. Witness marks, shown in one of the images above insures they're where they need to be. Besides, once rounded pretty much moot, assuming a tight clamp up and properly positioned jigs during assembly. On spars where I make the symmetrical stave layout, so I can preserve the octagon shape for a portion of the stick, I do take special precautions, to insure the octagon part is particularly well fitted. The reason for my 4 and 4 glue up is to make inserting the reinforcements easier and be more precise. The 2 by assembly seems to do the same thing, though more tedious IMO, but it does insure a good seams on the staves, which on an asymmetrical stave layout, such as this one is more important, because of how much material is removed below the exterior cut lines.

    I make a number of spars each year and even have my own spar lathe (homemade, using a garden tractor transaxle and an electric motor!) that can handle about 24' of stick. I can handle longer, though I'd have to cut a hole in the back wall of the shop. Given I have two trees into this wall after the last hurricane, this isn't much of a problem now. Most of my masts have a double taper, one along the foot, typically from the partners down, the other as usual along the head, on gaffers above the hounds. Good clamping is the problem I've found that needing solving, as well as sufficient enough jigs to insure the mast is straight and the staves can rest comfortably, as goo is applied and they get assembled. I've found stave alignment the least of my concerns over the years, again assuming good jigs and clamping.

    Lastly, on some spars, where the staves have a mind of their own and just will not live in their notch, along their full length, I position some spring clamps or sometimes a bar clamp on the jigs, so I can push the wayward stave against them until the next one is positioned. On rare occasions, I've put a finish nail into the stave, tacking it to one or more jigs, again until I get others positioned and their combined weight holds the wayward stave. The last mast I built had this issue with 3 of the 8 staves. The stock had some internal stresses released, once dimensioned to size. I'd usually have tossed these and cut more, but the stock was so pretty, straight grained, etc. I just couldn't do it. I used several finish nails to hold them in alignment. Of course, they were pulled out once the two halves cured.

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