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8th December 2017, 02:55 PM #16.
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8th December 2017, 04:55 PM #17
RCD/Breaker combos are probably the most common type installed in the last ten years. They don't cost much more than a breaker and you can get good quality ones that only take up one module in the switchboard. RCDs have been compulsory for around 20 years in Aus, maybe longer.
If you want to know what caused the trip you can tell by the position of the switch after the trip. If the trip was caused by earth leakage, the switch will be in the center position. You will need to switch it off then on again to reset it. If the trip was from overcurrent, the switch will be in the off position or right down. This may not be true for every type of RCD/CB combo but it is very common.Those were the droids I was looking for.
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8th December 2017, 10:47 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Don't bypass the breaker whatever you do.
I think you've already got some good advice to troubleshoot the issue.
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9th December 2017, 09:58 AM #19Novice
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Hi Baz, don't upgrade the breaker as the 2.5mm cable run for this circuit is rated at 20amp depending on the condition s of how the cable was run and upping the breaker Will allow the fault current to rise above 20amp and the weak link Will be the cable which Will melt. This is one of those problems that could be a number of things and you don't know until you look and use a process of elimination. Could be the breaker, damaged wiring , earth leakage fault with saw. I suggest you get your sparky out cause he Will have the tools to to an insulation test on your saw & hard wiring, also to check rcd trip times and sensitivity of you breaker to see if it's nuisance tripping. As mentioned motor start can be up to 7 times rated current. This is sometimes labelled as max current on the appliance. Sparky should be able to sort it quickly
Cheers matt
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9th December 2017, 11:06 AM #20Novice
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Hi Boaz, don't increase the size of breaker cause the 2.5mm cable run for this circuit is only rated at 20amps depending on how it was run. Could be a number of things but I'd suggest getting your sparky out cause he Will have the right equipment to to do an insulation test on your saw, & hard wiring and test the trip times at 0&180 degrees of sine wave of your breaker to test if your rcd is nuisance tripping and also test current being drawn in case of overcurrent. Again could be a number of things so call your sparky.
Cheers Matt
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9th December 2017, 11:07 AM #21Novice
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T
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9th December 2017, 11:25 AM #22Novice
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Hi Baz, don't increase the amperage of your breaker because the cable run for that circuit Will be rated at 20amp depending on how it was installed so increasing the rating Will not cause it to trip in time and the weak link will. be you cable which Will melt. I'd call a sparky cause he Will have the instruments to test insulation of your saw,hard wiring & also test the rcd is tripping at the correct milliamp rating and not nuisance tripping. Also current being drawn.
Cheers matt
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9th December 2017, 11:26 AM #23Novice
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9th December 2017, 11:28 AM #24Novice
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9th December 2017, 11:30 AM #25Novice
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9th December 2017, 11:32 AM #26Novice
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9th December 2017, 11:35 AM #27Novice
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I'd call a sparky as he Will have the meters to check insulation of your saw ,hard wiring an also trip times and sensitivity of your rcd to rule out nuisance tripping
Cheers matt
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9th December 2017, 02:08 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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You are correct but the advice by another member was to swap to one that is slower to trip. That is to one which will tolerate a higher current spike before tripping. This will be done by an electrician who will no doubt look at the thickness of the copper and insulation of the cable.
Even an older cable can safely carry a much higher current spike for a few seconds than would be safe to carry for an hour. The breaker on the other hand has much less tolerance for this spike by design. This lack of tolerance in the breaker could be safely dialed back by replacing with one less sensitive to a short spike.
I have a circuit with an old 16Amp fuse. The electrician pointed out to me that I can go way over this for a few seconds because it's a fuse. So its like the ultimate slow curve compared to a circuit breaker.
You can then protect yourself further by having a current limiter on each plug or whatever is plugging into it. So that would give you more precise control of the safety.
I hope this plain English explanation is helpful.
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9th December 2017, 02:34 PM #29Novice
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9th December 2017, 02:40 PM #30Novice
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I was referring to the first post when Boaz said the breaker was 20amp (should it be more)
Dave what are these current limiter on the plug. I've never seen them.
If I was cautioning I'd check insulation resistance on your saw also hard wiring. Check your trip times on rcd and milliamp trip to check it's not nuisance tripping. If all is ok I'd swap out for a d type curve breaker
Cheers Matt
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