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  1. #16
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    I would not advise bypassing the breaker as this could destroy your motor, shed wiring, and start a fire.

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Didnt know about curves on breakers. Good to know.
    Shame the breakers don't have a small display to show a small diagnostic code.
    There are industrial systems/devices that analyse breaker trips - probably costs more than the total electrical install on most DIY sheds.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yanis View Post
    If it trips the RCD then it is earth leakage. If it is the breaker then it is the over current. (There are RCD breaker combos which does not help but these are rare).
    RCD/Breaker combos are probably the most common type installed in the last ten years. They don't cost much more than a breaker and you can get good quality ones that only take up one module in the switchboard. RCDs have been compulsory for around 20 years in Aus, maybe longer.
    If you want to know what caused the trip you can tell by the position of the switch after the trip. If the trip was caused by earth leakage, the switch will be in the center position. You will need to switch it off then on again to reset it. If the trip was from overcurrent, the switch will be in the off position or right down. This may not be true for every type of RCD/CB combo but it is very common.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  4. #18
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    Don't bypass the breaker whatever you do.
    I think you've already got some good advice to troubleshoot the issue.

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  5. #19
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    Hi Baz, don't upgrade the breaker as the 2.5mm cable run for this circuit is rated at 20amp depending on the condition s of how the cable was run and upping the breaker Will allow the fault current to rise above 20amp and the weak link Will be the cable which Will melt. This is one of those problems that could be a number of things and you don't know until you look and use a process of elimination. Could be the breaker, damaged wiring , earth leakage fault with saw. I suggest you get your sparky out cause he Will have the tools to to an insulation test on your saw & hard wiring, also to check rcd trip times and sensitivity of you breaker to see if it's nuisance tripping. As mentioned motor start can be up to 7 times rated current. This is sometimes labelled as max current on the appliance. Sparky should be able to sort it quickly
    Cheers matt

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  6. #20
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    Hi Boaz, don't increase the size of breaker cause the 2.5mm cable run for this circuit is only rated at 20amps depending on how it was run. Could be a number of things but I'd suggest getting your sparky out cause he Will have the right equipment to to do an insulation test on your saw, & hard wiring and test the trip times at 0&180 degrees of sine wave of your breaker to test if your rcd is nuisance tripping and also test current being drawn in case of overcurrent. Again could be a number of things so call your sparky.
    Cheers Matt

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  7. #21
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    T

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  8. #22
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    Hi Baz, don't increase the amperage of your breaker because the cable run for that circuit Will be rated at 20amp depending on how it was installed so increasing the rating Will not cause it to trip in time and the weak link will. be you cable which Will melt. I'd call a sparky cause he Will have the instruments to test insulation of your saw,hard wiring & also test the rcd is tripping at the correct milliamp rating and not nuisance tripping. Also current being drawn.
    Cheers matt

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  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattfunk 120 View Post

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  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattfunk 120 View Post
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    Hi baz, don't up the size of your breaker as the the cable run Will be rated at 20amps depending on how it was installed

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  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattfunk 120 View Post
    Hi baz, don't up the size of your breaker as the the cable run Will be rated at 20amps depending on how it was installed. Call your sparky as he Will have the right Myers to test insulation on your saw,the hard wiring and also test your rcd for correct trip times and sensitivity to rule out nuisance tripping.
    Cheers matt

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  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattfunk 120 View Post
    Hi baz, don't up the size of your breaker as the the cable run Will be rated at 20amps depending on how it was installed

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    Call a sparky as he Will have the meters to test insulation on your saw ,hard wiring and also test the trip times and sensitivity of your rcd to rule out nuisance tripping.
    Cheers Matt

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  13. #27
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    I'd call a sparky as he Will have the meters to check insulation of your saw ,hard wiring an also trip times and sensitivity of your rcd to rule out nuisance tripping
    Cheers matt

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  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattfunk 120 View Post
    Hi baz, don't up the size of your breaker as the the cable run Will be rated at 20amps depending on how it was installed

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    You are correct but the advice by another member was to swap to one that is slower to trip. That is to one which will tolerate a higher current spike before tripping. This will be done by an electrician who will no doubt look at the thickness of the copper and insulation of the cable.
    Even an older cable can safely carry a much higher current spike for a few seconds than would be safe to carry for an hour. The breaker on the other hand has much less tolerance for this spike by design. This lack of tolerance in the breaker could be safely dialed back by replacing with one less sensitive to a short spike.
    I have a circuit with an old 16Amp fuse. The electrician pointed out to me that I can go way over this for a few seconds because it's a fuse. So its like the ultimate slow curve compared to a circuit breaker.

    You can then protect yourself further by having a current limiter on each plug or whatever is plugging into it. So that would give you more precise control of the safety.

    I hope this plain English explanation is helpful.

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  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    You are correct but the advice by another member was to swap to one that is slower to trip. That is to one which will tolerate a higher current spike before tripping. This will be done by an electrician who will no doubt look at the thickness of the copper and insulation of the cable.
    Even an older cable can safely carry a much higher current spike for a few seconds than would be safe to carry for an hour. The breaker on the other hand has much less tolerance for this spike by design. This lack of tolerance in the breaker could be safely dialed back by replacing with one less sensitive to a short spike.
    I have a circuit with an old 16Amp fuse. The electrician pointed out to me that I can go way over this for a few seconds because it's a fuse. So its like the ultimate slow curve compared to a circuit breaker.

    You can then protect yourself further by having a current limiter on each plug or whatever is plugging into it. So that would give you more precise control of the safety.

    I hope this plain English explanation is helpful.

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    Hi Dave what is this current limiter on the plug. I haven't seen these

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  16. #30
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    I was referring to the first post when Boaz said the breaker was 20amp (should it be more)
    Dave what are these current limiter on the plug. I've never seen them.
    If I was cautioning I'd check insulation resistance on your saw also hard wiring. Check your trip times on rcd and milliamp trip to check it's not nuisance tripping. If all is ok I'd swap out for a d type curve breaker
    Cheers Matt

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