Thread: Post & Beam Timber Frame Garage

Originally Posted by DomAU

Attachment 437423

My head for scale haha.

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Cheers, Dom

Just sitting down to watch this it looks epic,
I can be rude I like the mallet a lot.

Cheers Matt

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Good job Dom.

There may be a helical head available for that planer. I know Dave TTC fitted one to his Mak, but it might have been a smaller model. Might well be worth a PM to him to get a link.

It was a smaller model, and the head was worth more than the planner.
But it leaves a very nice finish.

Cheers Matt

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Just sitting down to watch this it looks epic,
I can be rude I like the mallet a lot.

Cheers Matt

Thanks Matt. I like the mallet too - almost don't want to hit stuff with it ��.

Spent a lot of time staring and thinking yesterday. Dressed and squared up (as best I could without removing much timber) 3 posts and one tie beam. Cut tie beam to length. Festool systainers came it handy as offcut supports! The perfect height for my saw horses.

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One post is completely covered in knots and will be unsuitable as a post. I may be able to get some short lengths between major knots to use as queen posts that will be mainly in compression. Hopefully I don't encounter any more like this as I didn't buy any "extra" timber, just the minimum for the job.

Aside from some bow the timbers are free of twist so far.

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Will layout joinery next couple of nights and then start cutting.

Cheers, Dom

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Yeah, mine usually does.

Hence the urgent request for moisture meter info?

Originally Posted by rustynail

When building with heavy timbers or logs there is always the probability they are still carrying a significant amount of moisture. This being the case, the member will contract on itself as it dries. Any mortise and tenon type joint will be subject to dimensional change in the process. The mortise shrinks in size as does the tenon, but not necessarily to the same degree as the timber volume in each member is different. Hence the comment about a hat slapping fit.

Yeah the timbers are freshly milled so are still very wet. Above 30%.

I suppose one could predict the relative shrinkage of each mortise and corresponding tenon based on grain orientation and adjust tge fit to suit, but that just seems excesive right. Hat slapping fit it is (whatever hat slapping actually means )

Cheers, Dom

The cheapest chain mortisers I've seen are on japanese ebay haha or on ebay from japan, there are loads of them on there and they even have portable chisel morticers ( which I've heard are only any good on really soft timbers). The problem lies mainly in the power supply. Im no expert but Japanese mains power is 100V and not sure about frequency/amps or even what gear would be required to transform the electricity, though I would be very interested to know if anyone has any experience running japanese or USA tools in Au.

here is some links

-$660 USD (including shipping) https://www.ebay.com/itm/hitachi-cb-...iser.TRS0.TSS0

-$900 USD for a Makita 7104l https://www.ebay.com/itm/Makita-7104...iser.TRS0.TSS0

Started actually cutting some joinery.
Going ok, made some mistakes, still getting comfortable working with datum lines and theoretical timber sections vs actual surfaces and edges, but hopefully things will speed up as I go.

Using a combination of auger bit, chisels, saws and router at the moment. Aside from 4 housed mortises for braces I am done with the first two posts and will move onto the tie beam. Then will cut braces and test fit one lower bent assembly before making the second and then raising the pair. Then I'll make the third and raise it before making the king posts / rafters / queen posts / purlins etc (the whole upper half) - which I'll fit in-situ.

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Cheers, Dom

Couple more.

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Cheers, Dom

Hopefully get the tie beam done this weekend, along with the tie-beam to post braces ready for a test-fit. Not sure if I should cut the braces and mortises based on theoretical dimensions and hope it comes together or test fit the beam and posts and measure the actual positions/dimensions for the braces.

One thing I will say is that this little Japanese ink line I purchased a while ago has been indispensable. Each timber has some bow in it and getting straight reference lines is made much easier with this ink line. Maked me wonder why I only see the coarse chalk lines in Au hardware stores.

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Cheers, Dom

Which ink line is that, is it a Tajima or another one?
I like what you are doing there, Where did you get the info/ knowledge on the joints? I am considering doing a similar thing myself

Originally Posted by Beardy

Which ink line is that, is it a Tajima or another one?
I like what you are doing there, Where did you get the info/ knowledge on the joints? I am considering doing a similar thing myself

Yeah it's a Tajima I think though it has no english writing on it. Has a penguin looking picture on it and "Jr Super".

I got the info from various places and some I just made up/synthesised based on bits of info here and there. Most of my limited knowledge is from two books. One is by Tedd Benson - Building the Timber Framed House and the other by Steve Chappell - A Timber Framers Workshop. My design is not traditional or typical however so there are no examples to work from, however the joinery is fairly typical.

Cheers, Dom

Hi Dom,

So you got all the timber from Peter?
Nice guy. Been there quite a few times. Not surprising, I am a neighbour.

Originally Posted by kungsleden

Hi Dom,

So you got all the timber from Peter?
Nice guy. Been there quite a few times. Not surprising, I am a neighbour.

Yeah, from Peter and yes very nice guy.