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  1. #1
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    Default Which router for table set up

    I plan on getting the Makita RP2301FC for handheld use:
    https://www.makita.com.au/products/p...-plunge-router

    And will need another one for table use. I like the idea of getting another one as this thing seems to be pretty powerful and I've been told generally people need more power for table routing

    Im unsure how I am going to adjust the height though - would like to hear people's opinions.

    The router raizer system
    https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...ght-winder-kit

    but it appears that its only suitable for older makitas.

    And for bit changes to use a collet extender with an allen bolt to lock it down

    Another option is to just get the triton which can do it all, but I've read that they're not that good/as well made these days.

    Also just saw the Hitachi, havent done any reading on it yet but it looks like it will be compatible (the M12V is listed this is M12VE I assume the bodies are pretty much the same)
    https://www.google.com/search?q=hita...t=firefox-b-ab

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  3. #2
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    Default

    If I were to built another router table I would use something like this https://www.woodpeck.com/prlv2.htm

  4. #3
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    Default

    I saw the woodpeckers router lift, timbecon looks like they have same thing too. Its just very expensive lol basically the price of another router. I suppose I can get that and only buy 1 router but I would imagine it get annoying taking it off the mechanism.

    China - have you had a play with that router lift? Is it really good?

  5. #4
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    Default

    Hi gwertyu

    This might be irrelevant to you but I just throwing it out there: I did my first router table a month ago and I kinda got lost with all the options. In the end someone here said "keep it simple" and that's what I did: basically I made a benchtop router table, which means it sits a little higher than my other surfaces, I chose a (used) router with easily accessible controls and I made the front of the table completely open. Clear insert so I can see what I'm doing from the top, and I just put my hands through and make all the adjustments I want. Done, works great.

    No moving parts that I will never really know how well they work with my specific router and setup until I actually buy and install them.

  6. #5
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    Mooroopna, Victoria, Australia
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    Default

    I've got the RP2301FC in my router table. I'm happy with changing bits under the table (for now anyway).

    The RP2301FC also comes with a really long screw intended to be used for table mounted height adjustment(remove the springs if you go with this option) which I've setup, plus a knob to put on the fine adjustment thread as another option.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Spyro View Post
    Hi gwertyu

    This might be irrelevant to you but I just throwing it out there: I did my first router table a month ago and I kinda got lost with all the options. In the end someone here said "keep it simple" and that's what I did: basically I made a benchtop router table, which means it sits a little higher than my other surfaces, I chose a (used) router with easily accessible controls and I made the front of the table completely open. Clear insert so I can see what I'm doing from the top, and I just put my hands through and make all the adjustments I want. Done, works great.

    No moving parts that I will never really know how well they work with my specific router and setup until I actually buy and install them.
    I do have an old makita router (cant remember the model number) that could be used in a table setup, but however I choose to set it up, I would like to be able to swap it with a new one easily without too much hassle. TBH I would rather get a good set up going. I dont want to spend time messing around with things that arent set up well as im pretty impatient! lol

    Quote Originally Posted by PJM16 View Post
    I've got the RP2301FC in my router table. I'm happy with changing bits under the table (for now anyway).

    The RP2301FC also comes with a really long screw intended to be used for table mounted height adjustment(remove the springs if you go with this option) which I've setup, plus a knob to put on the fine adjustment thread as another option.
    Oh the Makita is has been designed with table mounting in mind? I had a look through the box at total tools and couldnt see anything. I did notice that there was a thread thing on the opposite side of the microadjust and didnt know what that was for.

    Any chance you can take some pics of your makita set up and how to raise/lower it?

    IMG_20180813_133749.jpg
    You can see the silver cylinder on the RHS
    and a close up here:
    IMG_20180813_133827.jpg

  8. #7
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  9. #8
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    qwertyu No I have not used that particular lift, the one I had is no longer produced, I still have the 3hp router however i now have a spindle moulder and have no need for a router table
    so I gave it away

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tccp123 View Post
    I use one of these, see my comments as Joe Blow, I had to buy two left handed nuts to secure the crank I made, I glued two wooden supports on the top so as not to block the air flow, the scissor lift works so well I wouldn't use any other method.


    Lift (2).png

  11. #10
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    The RP2301FC is ideal for table use - adjustable speed, tons of power and above table height adjustment. The 'cylinder' that you've pictured is the above table raising and lowering mount. About the only problems with this is that it's rather slow (standard M6 1mm thread pitch) and the drive is a phillips head (PH3 screw driver) rather than a hex head. If anything the RP2301FC is too big, heavy and powerful for out of the table use so why not dedicate it to table use and use your other router for hand held use?

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tccp123 View Post
    Tccp123 should get a commission on every one of those scissor lifts sold, the sales skyrocketed after he posted that Youtube video.

  13. #12
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    melb
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tccp123 View Post
    Thanks! Ill have a look

    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    The RP2301FC is ideal for table use - adjustable speed, tons of power and above table height adjustment. The 'cylinder' that you've pictured is the above table raising and lowering mount. About the only problems with this is that it's rather slow (standard M6 1mm thread pitch) and the drive is a phillips head (PH3 screw driver) rather than a hex head. If anything the RP2301FC is too big, heavy and powerful for out of the table use so why not dedicate it to table use and use your other router for hand held use?
    Thanks. Does the RP2301FC come with the phillip head threaded screw/rod or is this a part I need to buy? Will I need a nut or anything else? Or is it a screwn that screws up on the cylinder part and is held in position from table top. Do you happen to have a pic of how its done (maybe Im an idiot but I dont really get it)

    The old Makita I have looks exactly like the one in tcccp's video. The plunging mechanism isn't very smooth though. which is why I'm considering a new one. I think for handheld use, it will include flattening slabs - do you think a smaller router would be ok? the other use I see myself using a router for is things like roundovers etc and maybe cutting mortises too.

  14. #13
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  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    Thanks. Does the RP2301FC come with the phillip head threaded screw/rod or is this a part I need to buy? Will I need a nut or anything else? Or is it a screwn that screws up on the cylinder part and is held in position from table top. Do you happen to have a pic of how its done (maybe Im an idiot but I dont really get it)

    The old Makita I have looks exactly like the one in tcccp's video. The plunging mechanism isn't very smooth though. which is why I'm considering a new one. I think for handheld use, it will include flattening slabs - do you think a smaller router would be ok? the other use I see myself using a router for is things like roundovers etc and maybe cutting mortises too.
    The machine screw comes with the router. I've left the springs in my router and I wonder how well the above table adjustment would work without them. The screw goes through the base and pulls/pushes the router through the threaded section on the body (it's not attached to the base), so without the springs you've only got the weight of the router to pull the whole thing down. If you got some debris under the screw, between the head of the screw and the base, problems would eventually result. You have to bore a hole in your router plate to allow access to the head of the screw and debris collects in the hole very readily. A regular blow out or vacuum is a must.

    A few different models of Makita's look pretty much the same, my hand held one is a 3612, it's too big and heavy for some more delicate jobs, but there's plenty of power for virtually any job. One of the problems if you get a smaller router for hand held use is that it's best to get something with the same size collet, so you don't have to buy the same bit in different shank sizes, this tends to limit your choices. I'd personally be having a look at improving the plunge mechanism on your current Makita, you should be able to get it very good without a lot of work.

    The second video Tccp123 has linked to is well worth a look. There are a lot of different mortising jigs on the net, but his is certainly one of the better ones.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    The screw goes through the base and pulls/pushes the router through the threaded section on the body (it's not attached to the base), so without the springs you've only got the weight of the router to pull the whole thing down. If you got some debris under the screw, between the head of the screw and the base, problems would eventually result. You have to bore a hole in your router plate to allow access to the head of the screw and debris collects in the hole very readily. A regular blow out or vacuum is a must.
    I did this with my Bosch router and bored a hole through the base, I got a M6 x 1mm thread hex headed stainless steel 140mm long bolt from Ebay, it worked fine even with the springs in it and I made a crank to fit the bolt head, the only downside I found was that you had to wind and wind and wind, it's not very quick, some people suggest using a cordless drill to make it quicker. You can get very fine adjustments as well.

    The scissor lift with the crank handle attached alleviates the problem because it's fast to wind up and down and at the same time small adjustments can be made, of course it's under the table but I like that too as I have to have my eyes down to the router table top level to measure the height of the bit anyway.

    Either method has it's advantages and disadvantages, and since your Makita already has the screw setup you only need to buy a bolt/screw for it so I would try that first, you can always go the scissor lift method later if you find it too slow for your liking.

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