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28th August 2018, 09:10 AM #1
Please make suggestions on how to winterise my shed. 2° this morning!
Been loosing a lot of time in the shed lately.
It's starting to depress me.
Can someone please help get me started in design and pricing?
Its a single car garage.
Brick on the two long sides.
And a roller door on each end.
Neither of the rolls have enclosed headers.
There is about a foot of open space at the top of each roller door.
More when closed.
If the wind is not blowing its still cold.
If the wind is blowing its unbearable.
Its a timber framed roof.
With just tiles.
I can see light between the tiles.
But can't recall the last time I had a leak.
I'd like to keep the roof space for immediate access storage.
I thought I'd start with sealing the roof first.
Or insulate my attic?
So something to winterise the roof tiles just below the supporting roof timbers. (?)
Any suggestions?
tia
P.S.
I'm in Victoria Australia.
The ceiling area is beneath a pitched roof. So its not a flat roof.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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28th August 2018 09:10 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th August 2018, 09:39 AM #2.
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Almost any form of insulation can be used under the roof.
The quickest and most effective would probably be styrofoam panels in between the rafters.
But until you do something about those gaps above the roller doors you won't feel much of an effect. Even with a boxed in header a roller door is as leaky as as all get out and is basically a metal skin that conducts heat very efficiently to the outside. You might want to think about a heavy curtin across the inside of both roller doors.
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28th August 2018, 09:51 AM #3
Many thanks.
LOL. I'm thinking if I wold have posted to start with the rollers someone would have post not to forget the ceiling.
So I'm starting top down.
For some reason I have this image in my head of long plastic sheeting.
Starting along the peak from front to back.
Stapled at each rafter.
The sheet is loose or hanging down like a wide u shape between rafters.
The next sheet is placed along side the first with an inch or two under lap. (not over lap)
As if a leak started at the peak and would drain down from the first sheet into the second and so on.
I'm also picturing a sheet of gyprock where one side is a film of silver.
This vision cold be taken completely out of context.
As in the silver could be a heat insulation and not weatherproofing, etc.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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28th August 2018, 10:01 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Do you have space to build a largish garden shed in the backyard?
That way you could have a purpose designed insulated area in addition to the garage area. Just a thought.
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28th August 2018, 10:03 AM #5
No.
Trying to insulate my current shed.
Thanks though.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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28th August 2018, 10:07 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Put a jumper on. If still cold put 2 on. Hahahaha
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28th August 2018, 10:09 AM #7
LOL. Problem Solved. Just rug up. Man! Wish I had thought of that.
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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28th August 2018, 01:10 PM #8
Freakin -1° tomorrow morning.
From a 1 min convo with my family friend architect to get me started researching.
Remove roof tiles and place sarking(?) down
then replace roof tiles.
If too much work.
Place insulation between rafters against roof tiles.
Then place sarking (sisalation) on the underside of rafters
Reflective foil - condensation and water
sarking underside of rafters
then Vilaboard (tapered edges - wet area plasterboard)
http://www.homeinsulationroyalcommis...2.003.0002.pdfThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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28th August 2018, 02:33 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Unless you also add heating adding insulation will only keep the overnite temperature in the shed longer.
It will slow down the rate at which it heats up in summer but in winter it will only make it worst.
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28th August 2018, 04:26 PM #10.
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Insulation works at both ends of the temp spectrum provided the shed is well sealed and suitable ventilation is used at the right time of the day.
In winter, running some ventilation during the middle/afternoob of the day will bring the inside shed temp up to the outside temperature.
In addition a live working human will add 80-100W of heat plus running any lights, machinery or tools during the day that should further warm the air in the shed to greater than outside temperatures and decent insulation should retain some of that warmth for longer so that some of it remains next morning.
If I used the my shed the day before, at around 7am next day I measure up to an 10º higher temperature than outside.
In the opposite way in summer, I ventilate in the early morning so the inside of the shed reaches outside air temp and then close everything up to retain as much cool air as possible.
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28th August 2018, 04:51 PM #11
The plan at the moment to to heat it when I need it.
I plan on building my own solar panel.
And don't plan on needing to cool it further other than a giant fan I already have.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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28th August 2018, 06:50 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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There is a product that is both sisalation and insulation in the one roll. It has sisalation on one face and a high density foam (a bit like those older hiking bed mats) on the other. The product is available in various thicknesses and although not as good as thick pink batts it does have far more insulating quality than just sisalation.
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28th August 2018, 07:09 PM #13
I'm wondering if that product is cheap enough to consider and enough insulation to hold the heat for a few hours.
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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28th August 2018, 08:06 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Go to your local Big name hardware store and check it out for pricing. I have put it in my workshop as it was easier to do that than create a cavity for regular batts and the difference is very noticeable. I do have a wood heater in the w/shop and it stops the heat going straight through. Sounds like your workshop, single car garage, would only require one roll of the stuff so the cost should not be a "Kings Ransom". If you do go with the stuff beware of the installation recommendations, it is better to install it loosely so that it sags somewhat under the roofing batterns rather than skin tight as most folk try to get their sisalation.
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28th August 2018, 08:36 PM #15
Have a look at Aircell insulation, it's like bubble wrap sandwiched between 2 layers of foil. It's light enough to just staple to the underside of the rafters &/or battens. I did this to our old house in Sydney.
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