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Thread: Surprise!
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9th December 2018, 04:15 PM #16
I have just ordered.....
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vertical...edirect=mobile
..... and will report back. IF it works reasonably, I’ll start with a sized timber guide clamped, chocked and wedged to the truest face, cut 90 deg to that face and then clamp the guide to the cut face and cut a new face at 90 deg. I’m hoping that I can then cut another face parallel to the last to halve the section? If it shows potential, I might even splurge on an aluminium section as a guide for the following cuts?a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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9th December 2018, 04:28 PM #17
I'd try it on scrap first . . .
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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9th December 2018, 04:38 PM #18
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9th December 2018, 11:35 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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10th December 2018, 07:31 AM #20
Thanks for the offer Chris but, even cut to length, each piece weighs nearly 60kg. I’m lucky that the design is totally unrestricted as my current concept requires lengths of 2100 but it can easily be changed to 1200 at this stage if handling and cutting the longer lengths becomes too difficult? The other driver to reduce the design length is that I’m going to be struggling to get CLEAR 2100 lengths anyway?
Going back to IanW’s comments about the ‘robustness’ of forest red gum, I noted with some humour that that the mobile crane in the timber cutters yard uses baulks from this tree under the hydraulic stabilisers while lifting!a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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10th December 2018, 09:03 AM #21
Al, make an "A" frame, with block and tackle to lift in the trailer, back trailer to the shed and then remove with the "A" frame.
Minimal lifting.Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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10th December 2018, 10:42 AM #22
Alan
It maybe too late now as you have ordered the beam saw, and I don't know the dimensions of your timber, but a 9 1/4" hand held circular saw will cut to about 7 1/2" deep by using the fence and going from both sides. Cut to 2" deep at a time. Unevenness in the cut will be addressed by the thicknesser.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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10th December 2018, 10:45 AM #23GOLD MEMBER
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10th December 2018, 03:16 PM #24
- the main lengths of timber are 140 x 140 x 5000
- I’ll cut one of them into 2 lengths of ~ 2500
- use the milling attachment ( currently on order) and (possibly) borrowed chain saw, to cut into 2 each 140 x 60 x 2500
- finish lengths ( about 25kg each) on jointer and thicknesser
- STOP AND THINK
- IF I can’t get reasonably clear lengths of 2100 and/or it was TBH (too bl**dy hard) and/or it was too dangerous then I’ll.....
- change the design to suit maximum lengths of ~ 1200
- IF it does cut adequately then I’ll buy a new electric chainsaw (Stihl MSE170C?) and set up properly.
Of course some unkind people suggest that this is all just a ruse to justify the eventual purchase of a Festool Sword Saw....... an almost unfounded slur ?a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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10th December 2018, 06:44 PM #25
For $1750 and with only a 200mm deep cut I think there must be better options available. About $1230 out of Germany.
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10th December 2018, 07:22 PM #26
My research (= aimless wandering around the web) has identified one intriguing alternative. A US company called Prazi makes a 300mm long chain, bar and riving knife assembly that replaces the circular blade on a Bosch 7 1/4” worm drive circular saw! Why it is SO specific is still a mystery but with the blade assembly being $AUD250 and a saw at say $400, it is a much cheaper option ?
a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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10th December 2018, 08:01 PM #27
I think by far the cheapest option is to design something using 1200mm lengths which could be split on Chris's band saw. You wouldn't be able to properly joint those at 2100-2500 anyway I don't think. They would still be damned heavy and difficult.
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11th December 2018, 07:59 AM #28
It looks interesting but I am surprised that it is designed around a 7 1/4" saw. Bearing in mind the additional load involved cutting deep timber, why would you not make it attachable to a 9 1/4" saw. The power of the small saws will not normally be much above 1400W while the larger saws are 2400W plus in some cases. In the US they have 16" hand held circular saws, but again they are used on more forgiving timbers and are also 120V so not compatible for here.
Remember that those saws are designed particularly for cutting large building timbers in the US. Oregon, for example, is nowhere near as hard as your timber. I think it would be a very big ask for a small circular saw. On the saw guide you have ordered it looks as though the bar has to be absolutely vertical. I am not sure if the intention is to push or pull the device,but if it is to be pulled some angling of the bar would be desireable to my mind.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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11th December 2018, 08:05 AM #29
I've highlighted the key words WORM DRIVE link to Bosch's Canadian site https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/bos...csw41-48519-p/
from the blurb
The CSW41's worm drive system features an enormous gearing ratio in a compact size... tremendous power in a manageable package
it's a 7-1/4" saw with 1800W "under the hood" (if I may use a car sales term)
oh, and the retail price is $320 to $350 CAD, say $360 AUD
the real killer might be that I'm not sure that worm drive saws are available in 230/240 V versions.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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11th December 2018, 08:13 AM #30
I reckon it would be a struggle, too - that stuff ain't Balsa by a long stretch!
This is a discussion I'm following with great interest (& sympathy!). I've got some large chunks of P. radiata left from a monster I had to remove from it's position 2 feet from the house about 7 years ago. The tree was about 700 diameter and I milled it with a slabbing rail, which left me with two 'core' pieces about 125mm thick & 2.2M long. I have finally got the perfect use for it, as legs for a rather substantial table requested by one of the offspring.
But to get the clear leg lengths I want out of these monster slabs is a complex sawing job, I have to stagger some cuts to avoid several very dead, very large, ugly knots, & about the only way I can see me getting the maximum sound leg material is to make some of the initial cuts with hand saws. I can do some ripping with the chainsaw, but it wastes too much wood for the tighter cuts required to maximise useable wood. The slab is far too heavy to manoeuvre over my bandsaw, even with help. So I've got the biggest slab sitting on saw-horses in the shed while I 'study' the various alternatives - the saws remain firmly in the cupboard until I'm certain there really is no easier alternative!
Funny thing about these slabs - they seem to have grown much heavier over 7 years, despite having lost all that water! I managed to get them, dripping-wet, up a steep incline & onto a large stack just after I'd cut them, but I had a major struggle to get them off the stack & into the shed the other day - all on level ground! It's a mystery.....
Cheers,IW
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