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Thread: Surprise!
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8th July 2019, 09:53 AM #196
Fletty, I'll give the dissenting opinion.
Let's postulate the parallelogram effect was caused by uneven & slightly mis-matched clamping pressure. In pulling it back into square, if you haven't visibly broken any glue-lines, it would seem the necessary movement was within the plastic flow capabilites of the materials. Not sure of the time interval involved between applying your glue & the ratchet, but most epoxies retain a good bit of plasticity for at least a week or so before starting to become really hard, so the glue in your joints should finish curing with little or no added stresses.
I can't see how seasonal humidity changes are going to affect the geometry of the basic frame, that would require movement of the stretchers along the grain, which is highly unlikely, unless one of them has a strategically-positioned patch of sapwood. Finally, the fixings of top to frame should be able to match the strength of a fabric ratchet strap, so won't they help to keep the legs where they should be?
P'raps that's a lazy man's way of justifying doing the minimum to get out of jail, but I have a deep distrust of metal stays on furniture. I've seen so many chairs with threaded rod or twitched wire 'compression members' that were added to them at some point, tying to counteract poor design and failed joints. Besides being unsightly, they usually fail to fix the problem.
At least your rigging wires would be out of sight....
Cheers,IW
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8th July 2019 09:53 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th July 2019, 05:41 PM #197
I had come to the same conclusion that the epoxy was still sufficiently plastic to allow for the realignment and I have left the ratchet in place while the epoxy fully cures. I don’t think humidity has anything to do with the alignment issue and, without reading back, I can’t remember where that suggestion came from? The misalignment simply came from additive errors while juggling the heavy rails to join with the VERY heavy gate-ends single handedly?
Another plus for NOT eccentrically reshaping the table top is that I can put the top on to the frame upside down for final sanding and finishing of the bottom....
22DAFEC8-56AD-4190-8330-2C0976CE59A6.jpg
Sanded to 800, vacuumed and one coat of WOP.a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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8th July 2019, 06:45 PM #198
Our hard hardwoods aren't a lot of fun to work with, at times, but once you lick 'em into shape, they do the job, don't they?
Lookin' good, china....IW
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25th July 2019, 09:25 PM #199
OK, I’m opening myself up to howls of derision and possible rebuke from the safety police but I’m going to take one for the team! I have given up on my Resaw King bandsaw blade. I simply cannot get it to consistently track true and this leads to extreme drift on any resaw over 100 mm deep. I have measured, as best I can, the amount of set on consecutive teeth and there is definitely less set on the ‘outside’ of the blade than on the ‘inside’?
After a chat with the boys at Henry Bros, I have pushed the envelope and bought a 1”, 1.3tpi, Lennox, CT blade as compared to the 3/4” Resaw King. The major boundary push of course is the width of the blade.
There is certainly enough adjustment in the guides .....
65052DB8-92B4-4AF4-B11F-53276CDFF2E1.jpeg E7F9E1FD-D489-46B5-9F42-BBE80F5280D8.jpeg
BUT there appears to be no expectation from the manufacturer that a 1” blade would (could?) be fitted...
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I did a full clean and adjustment but, before doing a full alignment I did a 150mm resaw with this result...
DD964A18-A442-45DF-8334-6618C6C63C95.jpg
I’ll do some more experimenting tomorrow but I have an urgent need to resaw some 230mm Australian red cedar for a commissioned set of drawers and success for me right now would be completing this overdue commission!a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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25th July 2019, 09:29 PM #200GOLD MEMBER
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Alan, You can saw it here if you want.
CHRIS
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26th July 2019, 01:30 PM #201
Ooo yeah!
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The Australian red cedar has been resawn as required BUT with regards to fitting a 1” resaw blade to the Laguna 14/12 there is a small issue ?
As we have all learned from experience, this forum and YouTube, to get a straight cut parallel to the fence and square to the table, ie NO ‘drift’, the blade needs to be adjusted backwards and forwards on the wheel to find a correct position. On my bandsaw, with my blade, set up by me, on a Friday morning while standing on one foot, the correct position of the blade on the wheel is far enough forward that the blade can hit the inside of the bandsaw’s column! This is, as far as I can see, the only dimensional problem with fitting a 1” blade to a bandsaw clearly designed for a maximum 3/4” blade. My less-than-ideal solution was to adjust the blade further back on the wheel and then adjust the fence to suit the amount of drift that this location provides. As Chris Parks has suggested, a better solution would be to slightly rotate the table and leave the fence square to the table which is something I will do.
With regard to other parameters, there appears to be enough tension available for a 1” blade as the straightness and cut surface are probably the best I’ve ever obtained and there was certainly enough power to cut the ARC although it started to struggle on a trial piece of 250 mm wide forest red gum!a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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26th July 2019, 04:49 PM #202Woodworking mechanic
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Lovely grain! Are you going to “book match” the drawer fronts?
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26th July 2019, 05:38 PM #203
No unfortunately! Even worse than not bookmatching is that these are to be made into dovetailed drawers hidden behind hi-tech composite drawer fronts in a completely self contained and self sufficient off-road camping trailer! I’m searching for more ARC so I don’t have to use this!
a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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26th July 2019, 07:48 PM #204
Use ply. More stable for offroad use.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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26th July 2019, 07:55 PM #205
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26th July 2019, 08:41 PM #206Woodworking mechanic
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27th July 2019, 12:14 AM #207GOLD MEMBER
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I had a play tonight with my saw and did what I have recommended to Fletty and a few other people having trouble with their saws. I put two rare earth bar magnets on the blade and then stuck a 600mm steel rule to those, the magnets have to be clear of the teeth otherwise they won't be flat on the blade. I locked the fence to the rail and loosened the trunnion bolts to swing the table around but there was not quite enough movement and it left the fence still not parallel to the rule. European saws work a bit different to the generic Asian/US saws in that the tracking does not have the same adjustment as the Asian versions because the teeth have to hang off the side of the top wheel and the only function the tracking does is to get different width blades to that position. On my saw they have allowed for that and a fence adjuster can be seen in the photos and this aligns the fence to the blade. On an Asian saw the tracking would be changed if the table movement is not enough. Make sure all the guides are set in the running position with correct clearances also.
When I first set it up I looked at it and thought it was practically spot on until I measured from the rule to the fence and found about 20mm difference end to end and this had been doing a lot of resawing with no issues. It will be interesting to see what it is like when I do some more. I used the adjusting bolt and now it is spot on.
PS: I wonder if I should have posted this in the BS forum.
IMG_2304.jpgIMG_2305.jpgIMG_2306.jpgCHRIS
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27th July 2019, 02:57 PM #208Originally Posted by Chris Parksa rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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30th July 2019, 10:19 PM #209
Delivered the drawers today...
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...... after managing to find a few more pieces and hiding the good stuff?a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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31st July 2019, 11:37 PM #210
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