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Thread: JET Supersaw timing belt broken
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2nd August 2019, 09:10 PM #31Senior Member
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Is it harder to turn now than when it was new?
Maybe the issue is elsewhere and the belt is being overloaded and/or overheated now.
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2nd August 2019 09:10 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd August 2019, 10:19 PM #32
It is probably a little harder than when it was new, but it has always been hard to turn.
This little upper wheel is responsible for move the whole mechanism up and down. The mechanism is heavy so it is nearly impossible to turn.
IMG_7095.JPG
This is the original hand winder. I could never wind the blade up in one go.
IMG_7096.JPG
So bad I had to make my own winder. Longer arms & do half a turn at a time.
IMG_7097.JPG
With the upper wheel and lower wheel being the same size, it puts a lot of stress on the driving belt. I believe if the upper wheel is 2-3 times bigger then it will be much easier to turn.
Kappa, I hope it answers your question and sorry for not being articulate.Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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2nd August 2019, 11:15 PM #33SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Wongo,
It should not be that hard. Mine is a little bit harder than the tilting mechanism. I find I have to regularly blast the crap out with compressed air then lubricate with white lithium grease (pressure pack)
Regards,
Ross
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2nd August 2019, 11:48 PM #34
Hi Ross, yes the tilting mechanism is easy. Left and right, left and right I can do it all day. It is easy.
I constantly clear the dust but with a brush and with the DC on. I thought about lubricating it with either WD40 or grease many times. Grease and dust is not a good mix and it will just make a big mess inside the cabinet. I would like to know what you think, and I might give it a try.Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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3rd August 2019, 09:33 AM #35SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Wongo,
White lithium or some people use graphite powder but it is a pain to get in the right places and keep it there. I find compressed air is a must to get all the chips etc out.
Regards,
Ross
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3rd August 2019, 10:38 AM #36Woodworking mechanic
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I was not suggesting you where non articulate, I was just hoping you understood the implications of putting a larger wheel at the top.
The first problem, if you made it 3 times larger, is that you will have to rotate the lower wheel three times to get the same movement at the the top pulley as you would have if they were the same size.
From what other people have stated, there has to be a problem at the top pulley end to make it so hard to turn.
How long have you had the lever on the lower pulley? This increase in input torque along with the hard to turn top pulley is probably the reason your second belt didn’t last as long as the first one.
From your photo it appears the upper pulley is driving a gear that operates a geared sector which I would assume is attached to the blade assembly. Have you put a spanner/socket on the upper pulley bolt and seen how hard it is to turn?
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3rd August 2019, 02:30 PM #37SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Wongo,
There is a section in the owners manual on lubrication and backlash adjustment. If you don't have one you should be able to google it. Also there is a stablizer plate with a slot either side of the blade spindle. It has a flat head stud in each one and these travel up and down as the saw is raised or lowered.I always lube these, even though they aren't mentioned.
Sorry Lappa I don't know how to load photos.
Regards,
Ross
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3rd August 2019, 09:50 PM #38
OK I will give it a go. I still have the manual. Anyway, I am waiting for a couple of driving belts to be delivered. Better luck this time I hope. Thanks everyone
Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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3rd August 2019, 10:43 PM #39
What is on the other end of the shaft that pulley is on? If there is any sort of gear mechanism check the teeth for compressed sawdust in the bottom of the teeth. It is amazing how little buildup is needed to cause the gear teeth to bind.
I have a bevel gear on the screw that raises and lowers the blade and I have to dig the compressed sawdust out of every tooth now and again as it becomes difficult to turn the handle.
As others have said, it shouldn't be difficult to turn the handle if everything is working correctly.
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25th August 2019, 01:38 PM #40
Original belt lasted 12 years
Middle: 1st replacement lasted 9 months ($60)
Right: new belts (3 for $6 from ebay). They actually look and feel stronger than the other 2.
The new belt is 2 mm wider but it fits fine. Let's see how it goes.
I've looked and looked and I am convinced the reason why the wheel is hard to turn is because the whole mechanism is heavy. Winding up is much harder than winding down. I think it is a just poor design but I could be wrong.
Will give you an update when the new one breaks.
Thanks everyone for your input.
IMG_7202.JPG IMG_7204.JPGVisit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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8th September 2019, 04:25 PM #41
Today I finally decided to try my luck with a bit of WD40 on the upper pulley, and wow I have been wrong all these years. The wheel is much easier to turn now. What an idiot I have been.
Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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