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Thread: New workshop ideas
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4th August 2019, 06:08 PM #16
Before you tear down your existing colourbond shed, consider the one advantage of colourbond is that it's already in a position to repel all rain, and it's likely to be designed/engineered to withstand wind, rain and other inclement weather.
The second advantage is that it's already approved, and you don't run the risk of a neighbour not liking your replacement and trying to make life difficult with council etc - even though you are likely right and don't need approval for anything under 20sqm, that does also depend on how many other "under 20sqm" things you have in NSW, and you'd be surprised at what counts toward that (verandah, pergola, etc)
I get that the inside is also not to your liking, neither is mine - so for some ideas, take a look at this thread-in-progress that details how we're setting up our existing colourbond shed to become lined, have electrical/water/gas services and so on: Midnight's Shed
Early days on our build yet, but if you have any questions on this and our plans, please don't hesitate to ask!
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4th August 2019 06:08 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th August 2019, 04:24 PM #17Member
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The existing shed is going for a number of reasons...
The roof is pretty crumpled (an arborist dropped a huge branch on it) and it's full of little dents from falling gum tree branches.
I won't go into details on all the other stuff with colorbond sheds we all know the cons, would rather start from scratch and I have at least $10k for the budget.
I'm not sure why anyone would object to an identically sized wooden shed replacing a green colorbond one.
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9th August 2019, 04:18 PM #18Intermediate Member
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Hi rthorntn,
I've taken the liberty of doing a quick drawing of what I see as the bones of your idea.
I've been in the building industry for the last 40 odd years (chippie, builder, draftsman, truss and frame manufacturer).
Re-building on the existing slab should be no problem - PROVIDED you have a chat with the neighbours and then write down everything that was discussed. Just in case of any future objections.
Also just check with your local council.
Now, back to the shed. Use 90x45 mgp10 H2 for top & bottom plates, corner studs, support studs for the 150ub and for the rafters. For the rest of the frame, 90x35 mgp10 H2 will do the job.
You can put a door up to 1220 wide (used double studs each side) anywhere in the frame - except the 2.2m high wall. This wall needs to be taller to fit a door in.
The row of noggins around the bottom allows for the raised floor inside.
I hope this gives you a bit of inspiration
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9th August 2019, 07:08 PM #19
Dth1,
That's a comprehensive post - well worth waiting 6 years for .Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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10th August 2019, 01:43 AM #20Intermediate Member
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6 Years??
I thought it just started a couple of days ago!
Any how, rthorntn also touched on how to poke a hole in a wall and still have it lockable and weather tight.
This does mean a bit more work than hacking into the wall with a recipro saw.
The sketches below should give a few clues on how planning ahead is important ie. not putting studs where a hole has to go
Also giving consideration on using a heavy duty sill flashing in preference to a light weight one fixed to the face of the noggin.
And if anyone thinks I'm a Yank because of the weatherboards, It is some stuff we sell through work. So simple to put up that even the apprentices generally get it right the first time around.
Wall Opening.JPG
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10th August 2019, 09:57 AM #21.
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A really simple alternative to a hatch is a small sliding window installed at the right height as this at least allows opening from the inside.
I've even seen one with an adjustable height roller on the inside sill.
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10th August 2019, 11:13 AM #22Member
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Thank you DTH1, the drawings are AWESOME. I was thinking of having the outside door going into the 800mm wide office, that runs along the 2.2m wall (double doors would probably be overkill for anything that I'm going to need to get into the shed and I want the long walls in the main workshop area to all be useable for benches), being a shed I can probably get away with the door being a little smaller than regulation?
Thank you BobL, yeah a window is a great idea. Maybe a nearly 2m long thin window running along the wall between 150UB and the 3m high wall, I can rip most bits of plywood through that, I know it's a bit out there but I'm keen for ideas on how design a window like that.
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10th August 2019, 02:36 PM #23
DTH1
I think Bob was referring to your first foray into posting (your join date was 2013?). However, I believe he was being complimentary as your first (and second) post is a ripper and something we would normally expect from a veteran of many thousands of posts. I hope we will see much more from you as time goes on.
Excellent
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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10th August 2019, 02:39 PM #24Bushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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11th August 2019, 05:42 PM #25Member
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11th August 2019, 09:06 PM #26.
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12th August 2019, 02:41 PM #27Intermediate Member
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Thanks Paul, that makes sense. I was looking for guidance for making a coffin for our beloved cat Charlotte. Ended up with CCA stabilised spaulted pine, glass lid, sprung base (for comfort) and fully lined.
Been lurking and sucking up info ever since.
This thread is one I can contribute to in a practical way.
Sorry for the sidetrack.
Regarding using a window for a usable opening in a wall, consider making it a double hung (slides up and down).
This will give you the full width of the window opening to use with less chance of breaking the glass.
To have a wide thin window, select an Awning style - like the flap in the drawings above.
The opening over needs a head to distribute the wall/roof/wind loads. In this case a minimum of 2/90x45 mgp10 would do.
However, plan ahead. If you're likely to hang cupboards on the wall above the window, 2/120x35 mgp12 would handle the basic construction.
On the other hand (so many options ), if you want to line the shed with ply, MDF etc, you won't need these, as the sheeting becomes the load sharing member.
Regards
David
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12th August 2019, 03:53 PM #28
Really good advice from MM. Councils and neighbours have capacity to delay massively, even if you eventually win.
Another option is to "repair" the old shed. Very fine distinction between repairing and replacing - like gand dad's axe. But it is always worth involving the neighbours - "
"want to make the shed look better ......"
Biggest mistake I made when I bought my place 30 years ago was not checking the concrete in the shed floor. Put a level over it, Put a straight edge over it. Is it absolutely flat and level? If not, I suggest that your first task should be to either:
- Get professional concreter to skim existing floor, or
- Install level joists and lay yellow tongue floor.
Yellow tongue will be much nicer to walk and work on than concrete. Now I have too much stuff in shed to realistically fix floor - its a real PIA!
Cheers
Graeme
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