Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 56
Thread: Screwdriver bit recommendations
-
31st December 2019, 06:27 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 1,018
Screwdriver bit recommendations
I'm after recommendations for high quality screwdriver bits. General use and impact driver.
I've chewed through almost everything I've got driving screws into my new shed floor. pre-drilled 22mm red-tongue particle board into ironbark sleepers.
For the record, these Axminster bits are utterly useless. And the depth-adjustable holder is more worser! Whoever came up with putting a rubber o-ring in between the lock nut and the depth adjuster, and thought that it wouldn't move?
The best so far have been a set of 'gold' bits I got from Screwfix in the UK many years ago, but they don't seem to stock them any more. They've lasted a very long time, but I need to replace them as they slowly exit this life.
What do you recommend. I really don't care what they cost if they're quality and don't shatter when you look at them funny.
-
31st December 2019 06:27 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
31st December 2019, 07:36 AM #2
These are the best ...
Diamond-Tipped Screwdriver Bits - Lee Valley Tools
The are diamond tipped for non-slip.
19J3008-2-pozidriv-bit-f-84.jpg
Regards from Prague
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
31st December 2019, 07:55 AM #3
Consider changing to square drive screws. The positive lock into the head solves a lot of the problems with the more traditional head screws. In my experience anyway.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
-
31st December 2019, 08:27 AM #4I now have 3 sheds
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Soldiers Point, NSW
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 185
Hi Bernmc
Have you pre-drilled the ironbark sleepers as well? You say the red tongue flooring is pre-drilled but don't mention the ironbark.
If you have pre-drilled it, is the depth of the hole able to accommodate the length of the screw embedded into it? Or maybe consider a larger drill bit so a tad less of the screw thread bites into the ironbark. That would enable you to back off the driver clutch to a lower torque setting.
Regards
Twosheds
-
31st December 2019, 08:47 AM #5
Those Axminster bits and the one in the photo in Derek’s post are POZIDRIVE bits; very popular in Europe and the UK but almost unheard of in Australia. The don’t fit PHILIPS headed screws that are 99.9% all you find in Australia; unless you are a sparkie who regularly comes across European equipment (like Tecalimit, ABB and Schneider).
It’s all down to geometry; the flanks on a Philips bit are tapered so that it will “cam out” if over-torqued whereas PZ bits have parallel flanks. In Derek’s photo you can see clearly the way the bit has been ground to give the parallel flanks leaving those peculiar pointy webs which are an easy identification. They are usually stamped “PZ1/2/3”, whereas Philips are stamped “PH1/2/3”.
You can force the two together, a bit like you can force NPT and BSPT threaded fittings together. If you use a PZ bit in a Philips head (which I’ll almost bet a pod is what you are doing) only the very end of the bit is actually in metal to metal contact with the flanks until enough torque is generated to deform the screw head slightly. You’ll never get full contact though.
Sparkies have the opposite problem; I’ve lost count of the number of contactors and relays I’ve had to replace because the knuckle-draggers keep trying to tighten terminals with PZ heads using a Philips screwdriver; in this case the bit is only in contact with the very top edges of the screw head and it fornicates the screw head.
Treat all bits as throw-aways; they are cheap. Buy them in handy boxes of 20 or so and toss them as soon as they start to show rounding off at the edges.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
-
31st December 2019, 09:17 AM #6.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,839
I bought a 50 odd cheap set of security driver bits on ebay and it included both PZ and PH bits and using the right bit makes a difference.
BTW Pozidrive is incorrect spelling for PZ bits, the correct name is "Posidriv" see List of screw drives - Wikipedia
That Wikipedia entry has a good summary of most driver bits.
I agree with CT that bits have become throw away items.
-
31st December 2019, 09:24 AM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2015
- Location
- Mexico. Actual Mexico not Victoria.
- Posts
- 418
Irwin impact rated driver bits. They're the ones with the blue/silver banding. They're the only bits I use. Never seen seen one shatter or chip and that includes flogging them in an impact driver.
-
31st December 2019, 09:36 AM #8
The link that Derek put up has the option to select Phillips bits when you go to the site.
-
31st December 2019, 09:59 AM #9.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,839
There's actually some merit in having a few driver bits slightly softer than the screw.
If the bit shreds itself on a screw head the bit can be easily replaced it but the other way around can be a bastard to deal with especially on a machine when the bit snaps the head off.
OTOH I suppose that's what driver clutches are for.
-
31st December 2019, 10:13 AM #10
You are asking to get screwed when you play with screws.
Hugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
-
31st December 2019, 10:32 AM #11GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2018
- Location
- Nsw
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 1,376
You really need better screws and not Phillips head.
The best I have used are the Wurth branded ones, I fitted a lot of ironbark cladding and used 15,000 screws and they were great. They have a proprietary torque style head
I am just about to lay a black butt deck and have just bought 2000 of the heavier gauge Wurth screws for the job. They sell a countersink bit as well that is much better than the standard ones
They are not cheap but are worth it
-
31st December 2019, 10:43 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 1,018
Both the Axminster bit set and Derek's LV link have Philips as well as posidriv. The screws I'm using are philips #2, and I've been using philips #2 bits. So geometry is covered - and I think the fact that the bits are shattering as well as stripping/wearing suggests they're in good contact.
I've had a couple of bits shatter inside the screw, so they're going to be a barsteward if I ever need to get them out. I may move house instead.
I do prefer posidriv, but the screws I'm using are from the Big Green Place, and they don't seem to have much (if anything) in PZ.
The ironbark isn't pre-drilled, so I guess that's an option. Just adds to the time the job will take.
I found a protool review on impact bits - DeWalt fared quite well, and they're only $38 for a 40-bit set through amazon prime au so I have some of them on the way.
I will get some of Derek's LV recommendation to try, and as suggested, buy a bloody big box of something so I can just sigh, roll my eyes, and reach for another. I've levelled an re-floored about 25 sq meters, with another 10 to do in phase 3 of my Major Shed Development (MSD).
-
31st December 2019, 11:02 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,695
I recall one of the forum's advertisers sell Pz screws almost exclusively, Phillips were designed to cam out whereas Pz was designed to prevent it. As for the spelling, it is an British v's American thing and I am sure the Europeans developed it so I go with the z.
CHRIS
-
31st December 2019, 11:07 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- McBride BC Canada
- Posts
- 3,543
Philips heads were the result of very stiff lobbying to government. The better Canadian Robertson design was dropped.
Still the preferred wood screw here. The Chinese built 8 factories to produce wood screws. All Robertson.
I can use #8 in various lengths for most indoor things. Outdoors = fence frames, vine trellises, etc, I use #10 and #12.
Hardened driver bits are sold here in color coded packs of a dozen.
-
31st December 2019, 11:11 AM #15GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
- Location
- SE Melb
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 1,280
It is widely speculated that Phillips's head was designed to slip to prevent over-tightening. Apparently, it was mentioned in the 1949 refinement to the original design in the US patent. Whether this is true or not, Phillips head will slip if too much torque is applied, particularly from an impact driver. So pre-drilling will help to reduce the torque required. I also always press down quite hard with my left palm while driving the trigger of my impact driver with my right.
Similar Threads
-
Screwdriver
By Rodgera in forum WOODIES JOKESReplies: 8Last Post: 17th March 2012, 11:33 AM -
LN Screwdriver set
By John Saxton in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 2Last Post: 13th April 2011, 10:45 AM -
Screwdriver Bit Set
By GarethR in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 0Last Post: 19th July 2010, 03:01 PM -
Need an electric screwdriver
By glynhouse in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 14Last Post: 29th April 2007, 06:50 PM -
Yankee Screwdriver
By Phil Spencer in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 26Last Post: 15th February 2006, 01:48 PM