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  1. #136
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    Apr 2011
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    Looking good Keith. Just need the axle box covers to fit over the bearing. (Perhaps you could have KH cast in them.)
    With the brakes just remember that your best friend gravity is what causes the brakes to release. With the rigging rods and bars should be in tension when applied.

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  3. #137
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Thanks Kevin,

    Have already made the bearing covers but may look at a casting insignia. Top idea. Thanks

    Regards

    Keith

  4. #138
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    Apr 2013
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    Hi All,

    I have completed the second bogie and then got onto the work of creating casting marks on the bearing covers. As suggested by Kevin (Handyjack) I have used my initials as the casting marks on the covers. Takes time but it does add a bit of extra detail and should look a bit more authentic when I paint with my "cast iron" paint.

    109.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  5. #139
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Canterbury UK
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    67
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    3,994

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    I think they call that artistic license well-done bogie looks great and will certainly come to life with the finished colours on it

  6. #140
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    74
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    3,372

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    x 10++
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  7. #141
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    Apr 2011
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    Axle box covers make it look complete. Like the KH casting.

  8. #142
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi All,

    Continuing work on the tender bogies.

    The rear bogie has brakes on all wheels. The front bogie has no brakes - so it is easier.

    The brakes are held together by 6.3mm aluminium rod - turned and threaded at the ends to 4mm - the nut retains the brake shoe. The brake shoes are retained to the bogie frame by 4mm rods and fabricated 6.3mm joiners I made up.

    110.jpg

    I have found a different type of spray paint for anyone who needs to get a bright gold finish. (It is particularly good on metal). It is Dulux dura max "Bright Gold". The good thing is that it is quick drying and the paint doesn't tarnish when handled. It cost me $20 a can at Bunnings.

    111.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  9. #143
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi All,

    I have been working on the tender bogies and sub frame. I am really happy how it is coming together. Because of my manufacturing method - I am going to have to dismantle the bogies and paint the wheels, bearings, springs and entire sub frame and then permanently assemble these before I get onto the next step of the tender - the upper assembly.

    I have been able to construct the main locomotive section so that I can dismantle it entirely to paint and then reconstruct permanently.

    The locomotive and tender frame together measure just over 2 meters. I think my next build may have to be a small tank locomotive or even a shay if I can get enough details. (Running out of display shelving once this loco is complete)

    112.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  10. #144
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Coming together nicely.

    Puffing Billy railway museum at Menzies Creek Menzies Creek Museum - Puffing Billy has both a Shay and a Climax engine. The latter is operative. (Unfortunately not currently open like most museums.) While I understand that it is not close to you, it might be a bit more accessible than going overseas to see an example.

  11. #145
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi All,

    Pulled the bogies apart and painted all the components. Now the tender sub frame and bogies are pretty much complete. I have to add steps to the tender frame on both sides as this was the access to the locomotive cabin. Then I can get moving on the tender itself.
    The "channel iron" around the top section of the frame I cut out of 19mm thick pine using the table saw and then chiseled and sanded.
    I have made the bogies and frame so I can still dismantle if I really have to.

    I have used British Paints "Domino" as my colour for the cast iron components. I think this is the closest colour I can get to cast iron. I use a "dabbing" method of painting using cheap artist brushes. This tends to give the cast iron grain effect. All components were given 4 coats of paint.

    I like the red colour of the wheels which is prototype for this locomotive and tender. The paint is British Paints "Sassy Red". I get sample pots generally for my builds which works out pretty cheap. They are generally 250ml but if you are lucky, Bunnings sometimes have 500ml sample pots.

    113.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  12. #146
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi All,

    I have continued to work on the tender of this locomotive.

    The tender consists of the main water tan, which surrounds where the timber is stored to fire the boiler. This locomotive has rounded corners so I needed to figure out the best method of getting the correct radius of each corner.

    I had some thick oak boards that I had been given (50mm thick). I cut these to 50mm square blanks and then turned between centres on the wood lathe.

    114.jpg

    I then made up a fixture for the table saw so I could support the round blank and cut a little proud of the centre line.

    116.jpg

    I then cut them again at the same setting to give me a rounded quarter that is now one of 6 rounded corners of the tender.

    117.jpg

    I then made up the famework for the sides of the tender. The frame is 3mm recessed from the rounded corner - so the 3mm MDF cladding is flush with the rounded end.
    These tenders had plenty of rivets - so I have used 2.5mm decking nails (the head looks like a rivet head) as my "rivets". Time consuming cutting the nails but worth the effort I think.

    Next step is to frame up the back of the tender and then clad it.

    118.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  13. #147
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    I see you are getting around to your tender tank.
    For a moment I thought you were cutting the fuel for the tender but I see it is only the corners. For the fuel, just look what is in the garden. Cut to length and split.

    Looking good as always.

  14. #148
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    Torquay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handyjack View Post
    I see you are getting around to your tender tank.
    For a moment I thought you were cutting the fuel for the tender but I see it is only the corners. For the fuel, just look what is in the garden. Cut to length and split.

    Looking good as always.
    Thanks Kevin. I was thinking of cutting up tree prunings to make the fuel

    Regards

    Keith

  15. #149
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    Hi All,

    Rivets, rivets and more rivets - hundreds and hundreds of them. I use 2.5mm decking nails as my rivets. Cut them to the length with wire cutters. They are an interference fit in the holes so no need to araldite in position.

    The hand wheel for the rear tender brakes is an old "G" Scale locomotive wheel I machined in the lathe. Coming together now.

    Next step is the number 147 on the sides of the tender. They used very large numbers. Will make them out of MDF and then hand sand them down to under 1mm thick.

    119.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  16. #150
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    I guess that building the tank was riveting.
    At least you did not not need to heat them up red hot and then bead the end over with an air hammer.
    Its the detail that makes all the difference.

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