Thread: Challenge 2020 - 2021 Simplicity

So after Sheets attempt to put me off track in my creative zone this Morning.[emoji6]
We have the components of the rear tote,handle ruffle cut out, for those with a memory like mine, the timber is Forest Red Gum.
I’ve deliberately gone for a little more hang angle on the tote because it just felt right.


It was also quite pleasant to just play in my creative zone after a break of 6/7 months due to the Virus today. I was also quite happy to see no rust on my tools also.
Tho I noted the bin was still overflowing, I thought at least that may have sorted it self out.[emoji17]

Also I must apologise for not bringing a Table cloth I hope my feeble attempt at a Table cloth is not frowned upon.

Cheers Matt.

Matt

That is looking so good, if it were up to me, I would forgive the lack of a tablecloth as "the body" has a certain appeal in the unadorned flesh. However, I am not sure the judges will be able to overlook such a blatant departure from protocol.

Regards
Paul

Ps: Sorry to hear the rubbish bin still runeth over.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

That is looking so good, if it were up to me, I would forgive the lack of a tablecloth as "the body" has a certain appeal in the unadorned flesh. However, I am not sure the judges will be able to overlook such a blatant departure from protocol.

Regards
Paul

Ps: Sorry to hear the rubbish bin still runeth over.

Paul, thanks for the kind remarks,
I do hope our most Humble Judges, will see it in there generous hearts, to see past my forgetfulness, and crude attempt to pass of a cushion as a Table cloth.

Matt.

I am glad that standards are being maintained (or at the very least, attempting to be maintained) regardless of location.

Great you are able to spend some time at your "other" workshop!

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

I am glad that standards are being maintained (or at the very least, attempting to be maintained) regardless of location.

Great you are able to spend some time at your "other" workshop!

M,A.
The standards will now be maintained on a “Moving Base Line.”[emoji6]just because some here are picky.

Cheers Matt.

Phew!

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

That is looking so good, if it were up to me, I would forgive the lack of a tablecloth... However, I am not sure the judges will be able to overlook such a blatant departure from protocol.

I’m sorry Matt; but you set the precedent of displaying your WIP in this manner and then began upping the ante with each subsequent photo set. Therefore any deviation from this pattern must now be counted against you, this includes substituting Sheng-Fooey displays of Zen gardens or whatever.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

I’m sorry Matt; but you set the precedent of displaying your WIP in this manner and then began upping the ante with each subsequent photo set. Therefore any deviation from this pattern must now be counted against you, this includes substituting Sheng-Fooey displays of Zen gardens or whatever.

But as previously stated it was always, has been a moving variable Base line.
And it was me who initiated a bit of class in the challenge, and now I’m being accused of what sounds like Tall pop syndrome.
Is there no shame to the depths you fellows will try to drag me an the body.[emoji6]

Cheers Matt.

Well it’s been very very very very quite it seems in the plane making challenge, from all competitors it seems.
Me included, so I won’t say anything except Mail call.




Cheers Matt.

Matt, for anyone who hasn't used a knurling tool before, here's my tip for knurling brass: Define the area you want to knurl with a cove a coupe of mm wide, or by reducing the diameter a mm or so either side of the area to be knurled (if one side is an an edge you don't need to do anything to that). Start with the lathe running very slowly (my metalwork book says to start at a high speed, but that just doesn't work for me). Feed in the screw & apply a fair amount of pressure against the workpiece, then engage the lead screw & let it track to the edge of the area you are knurling. Disengage the lead-screw & with the lathe still running, wind the cross-slide back to the start, feed in a little bit more & engage lead-screw again. Repeat until you have a good knurl (which should consist of a bunch of little pyramids with the tool you've got there).

Depending on the diameter and the brass, sometimes it will all happen very quickly, but sometimes you have to persist and run the tool over the work many times until the knurling pitch matches up & forms a neat, full knurl. I didn't cotton on to hs for quite a while. Often, when you begin knurling on a diameter that doesn't match the pitch of your tool very well, you'll get double or triple patterns that make a sort of knurl, but shallow - like this: LC done.jpg

That's not what I call a good knurl, but if you keep at it, you should end up with something more like this (same starting diameter, same tool as for first pic): LC polished.jpg

And one last thing; it takes a fair bit of side thrust to form the pattern, so it's best if you can use tail-stock support for the workpiece to prevent it from bending under pressure (which can easily happen with small diameters of brass), but if you can't bring the tailstock up without it getting in the way, just keep the work area as close to the chuck as is safe, and take more, lighter passes. I've knurled 5/16" diameter brass successfully without tailstock support, but I had to go very gently - 19mm & up should give you no problems

Of course, you may well be an old hand at knurling, so apologies if I'm talking egg-suck talk.....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Matt, for anyone who hasn't used a knurling tool before, here's my tip for knurling brass: Define the area you want to knurl with a cove a coupe of mm wide, or by reducing the diameter a mm or so either side of the area to be knurled (if one side is an an edge you don't need to do anything to that). Start with the lathe running very slowly (my metalwork book says to start at a high speed, but that just doesn't work for me). Feed in the screw & apply a fair amount of pressure against the workpiece, then engage the lead screw & let it track to the edge of the area you are knurling. Disengage the lead-screw & with the lathe still running, wind the cross-slide back to the start, feed in a little bit more & engage lead-screw again. Repeat until you have a good knurl (which should consist of a bunch of little pyramids with the tool you've got there).

Depending on the diameter and the brass, sometimes it will all happen very quickly, but sometimes you have to persist and run the tool over the work many times until the knurling pitch matches up & forms a neat, full knurl. I didn't cotton on to hs for quite a while. Often, when you begin knurling on a diameter that doesn't match the pitch of your tool very well, you'll get double or triple patterns that make a sort of knurl, but shallow - like this: LC done.jpg

That's not what I call a good knurl, but if you keep at it, you should end up with something more like this (same starting diameter, same tool as for first pic): LC polished.jpg

And one last thing; it takes a fair bit of side thrust to form the pattern, so it's best if you can use tail-stock support for the workpiece to prevent it from bending under pressure (which can easily happen with small diameters of brass), but if you can't bring the tailstock up without it getting in the way, just keep the work area as close to the chuck as is safe, and take more, lighter passes. I've knurled 5/16" diameter brass successfully without tailstock support, but I had to go very gently - 19mm & up should give you no problems

Of course, you may well be an old hand at knurling, so apologies if I'm talking egg-suck talk.....

Cheers,

Ian,
Really good point, you have basically reinforced what I have see on some of the YouTube channels I frequent.
Yesterday was the very first time I’ve ever touched a knurling tool so no egg sucking today, besides I had enough of smashed eggs on Friday night [emoji6].

One thing I’ve seen others suggested is lots of cutting fluid seems to help.

Note point : I really want to get some knurling wheels to do some rope knurling convex and concave !!!!

Cheers Matt.

Matt

Is your knurling tool hand driven or does it go in a lathe? It looks to be an old, but very robust, design.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Well it’s been very very very very quite it seems in the plane making challenge, from all competitors it seems.
Me included, so I won’t say anything except Mail call.




Cheers Matt.

I had the same thought and was afraid suddenly finished planes to pop up left right and center while I am still dragging my feet [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

Is your knurling tool hand driven or does it go in a lathe? It looks to be an old, but very robust, design.

Regards
Paul

Paul,
It’s mounted in the Tool post on the lathe.
Not sure of its origins or heritage but there seems to be only a few designs.

This style I’m let to believe by Auntie google is better due to the knurls being able to clamp down on the stock!!.

Cheers Matt.