Thread: Challenge 2020 - 2021 Simplicity

I got a knurling tool with the accessories I purchased at the same time i got my metal lathe.

Mine is a different design, the two knurling wheels being a short space apart and pushed together into the workpiece by advancing the toolpost.

I have used it a few times to make knobs for some tools. It turned out to be much easier to use than I thought after a few youtubes.

I agre with what Ian said about support from the tailstock and/or as close to the chuck as possible.

I found it knurls better on brass without any lubricant.

Pask Makes has a mandraulic knurling tool:



And the knurling wheels in various pitches & pattern are available cheaply from Aliexpress, eg:

2PCS 19 x 8mm Knurl Wheel Tool Diagonal Coarse Twill Pattern 0.8mm Pitch Roller|Hob| - AliExpress

Originally Posted by Simplicity

.....One thing I’ve seen others suggested is lots of cutting fluid seems to help.....

Yeah, I think it's probably obligatory when knurling steel but brass works ok "dry" for me - it's said to be "self-lubricating". I have tried using fluid & it mixed with the powdery swarf the wheels produce& clogged the teeth & made a helluva mess. I may have had the wrong mix of fluid, or something, but that experience put me off & I decided to go back to what works.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

.....Note point : I really want to get some knurling wheels to do some rope knurling convex and concave !!!! ...

Good luck! All the 'rope' wheels I've seen were home-made and although some blokes have managed it with cobbled-up gear, making a good wheel looks a bit beyond my equipment & ability. This mob have convex wheels, and some old thumbscrews do have concave knurling, but it's the concave ones we ned to make a "rope" knurl. I'd be keen to get my little mitts on one, so if you manage to find a suitable wheel at something less than an eye-watering price, let us know, 'cos I'd dearly like to be able make rope-knurled thumbscrews too!

Cheers

Well as we have all been saying progress is progress know matter how small.
An my first knurling ,too.
Pretty happy with Body’s first bit of bling.

Lever cap screw done approximately 26.5 mm diameter with a M8.1.25 thread.
Centre as a Steel insert because I could so I did.



Cheers Matt.

That looks awesome and a nice reflection of the tool wall [emoji16]

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Originally Posted by Simplicity

Well as we have all been saying progress is progress know matter how small.
An my first knurling ,too.
Pretty happy with Body’s first bit of bling.

Lever cap screw done approximately 26.5 mm diameter with a M8.1.25 thread.
Centre as a Steel insert because I could so I did.



Cheers Matt.

Matt

I really like the look of that. Is the stainless glued in position or mechanically fixed?

Regards
Paul

I just saw the reflection my self,[emoji6]Ckelt well done,
Paul I’m bearing bad news it’s only Mild steel,With an interference fit(Read that as 8 Oz ball pein hammer.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

I just saw the reflection my self,[emoji6]Ckelt well done,
Paul I’m bearing bad news it’s only Mild steel,With an interference fit(Read that as 8 Oz ball pein hammer.

Cheers Matt.

What is an interference fit?

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Originally Posted by Cklett

What is an interference fit?

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Cklett,
Basically it means the steel bit, in the knob was a fraction bigger than the hole in the brass.
But when gentle tapping was used(slight tap with a 8 Oz hammer it fitted.

Ie: the brass gave in a little bit and the steel forced its way in.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Cklett,
Basically it means the steel bit, in the knob was a fraction bigger than the hole in the brass.
But when gentle tapping was used(slight tap with a 8 Oz hammer it fitted.

Ie: the brass gave in a little bit and the steel forced its way in.

Cheers Matt.

Matt

Sometimes also called a "pressed fit." Very appropriate for your plane I think.

I didn't realise mild steel could polish up that well.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

Sometimes also called a "pressed fit." Very appropriate for your plane I think.

I didn't realise mild steel could polish up that well.

Regards
Paul

Paul,
I think it’s only a “press” fit if you press it,
Not sure if there’s a technical term for a hammer fit, but it was only a small hammer [emoji6].

Mild steel, yes polishes up quite nicely.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

...... I think it’s only a “press” fit if you press it,
Not sure if there’s a technical term for a hammer fit, but it was only a small hammer [emoji6]....

I think the general "technical term" is an "interference fit", but any of the above will draw the picture.....

I would've put a very slight taper on the stud/bolt, but that can be tricky to pull off - if you don't get the taper just so, the stud will jam part way in & about the only way to get it out is to drill it out.... damhik! Brass-in-brass tapered pins lock amazingly well, I use them sometimes for fixing bridges or other cross-pieces in small planes. ( Pretty sure the subject has come up before, in one of these build threads.)

A safe way to fit a stud in a head, if you have appropriate taps & dies is to thread the stud into the head - a drop of 'Loctite' and Bob's your auntie. At least you can get the 'regular' Loctite apart easily enough with a bit of heat. I sometimes like to use a SS stud with a brass head, just for a change. The one on the left is my "all done without a metal lathe" example, with a bit of 8mm SS bolt Loctited into the head: Knurled t_screws.jpg

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Yeah, I think it's probably obligatory when knurling steel but brass works ok "dry" for me - it's said to be "self-lubricating". I have tried using fluid & it mixed with the powdery swarf the wheels produce& clogged the teeth & made a helluva mess. I may have had the wrong mix of fluid, or something, but that experience put me off & I decided to go back to what works.

I also found brass works dry with the odd blast of compressed air, but I usually use coolant, not just a dribble or a thin stream, but what's called flood coolant so that its pouring over the knurling wheels.

Matt, hate to be picky here but I notice your threads are looking a wee bit ragged? Are you used a thread cutting lube? I found it improves things quite a bit. I use something called Trefolex (a bit $$) but even something like a bit of lard is better than nothing.

Originally Posted by BobL

I also found brass works dry with the odd blast of compressed air, but I usually use coolant, not just a dribble or a thin stream, but what's called flood coolant so that its pouring over the knurling wheels.

Matt, hate to be picky here but I notice your threads are looking a wee bit ragged? Are you used a thread cutting lube? I found it improves things quite a bit. I use something called Trefolex (a bit $$) but even something like a bit of lard is better than nothing.

Bob,
I will probably run the Die over them once more with a bit of Tap magic,
But you really are not meant to be looking that closely,
Hear we prefer comments like wow that’s pretty well done extra extra,
It’s all show an no go[emoji6].

Cheers Matt.