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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,330

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    Quote Originally Posted by wood spirit View Post
    Don't forget scrapers -the thickest old rusted out files that you can find. Good hard steel - Cost 0$ - 50c . shape as wanted.

    Hmmmm.... the steel is good for a carbon steel but the tempering and structural integrity can be big a problem.

    Ever dropped a file on the cement floor? They shatter!

    There are two causes for that.

    They are left very hard with minimal tempering. That's good for a file but it leaves them very brittle and prone to shattering from any impact.

    They also come with rows after row of preformed fracture fault lines waiting to extend into and through the body of the file when a lateral force is applied, like when the downward force imparted by the rotating wood is on the end of the file and the tool rest provides a fulcrum/failure point.

    Unfortunately, some of the old woodturners and pattern makers passed down this re-purposing of files WITHOUT pointing out that they used only the very thickest of files (and much thicker than any of us will get our hands on nowadays) for this purpose, having ground away the teeth and gullets below the fracture lines and, if necessary, re-tempering them.

    I know from talking with some of those old woodturners and pattern makers (now in their 90s) that they still had some of those re-purposed files shatter on them. Engage the wood a fraction before getting the 'tool' down firmly in contact with the tool rest and it will slam down on the tool rest and..... bang, you can end up wearing some of that steel...

    I wouldn't recommend that.

    PS - most modern files are now case hardened, so by the time you have ground off the teeth and gullets you getting down to low tempered steel that isn't going to hold an edge anyway.

    PPS - if you really want to make your own scrapers out of something that is cheap try old car spring steel or mower/slasher blades that will take an impact.

    PPS - if you want to make something out of your old files and rasps make them into knives (not cleavers) where you can leave some of the teeth as a pattern. Just don't drop them.

    PPPS - braze a small piece of M2 HSS to a bright steel shaft and you have years of scraping in that. Small pieces of HSS flat bar are not very expensive and you can make a number of scraper tips from one strip for just a few dollars each.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Lke Macquarie NSW
    Age
    76
    Posts
    134

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    Neil's right...but before I knew better I found an old file (maybe 1/4" thick) removed the file ridges, polished it, shaped it into a round shaper and have used it for three years without any problem. Holds a great edge and it is my go-to scraper for most turning - and I scrape a lot! It is very good when use at an angle for shear scraping. It has withstood the inevitable careless cathes including one which destroyed a tool rest. Unfortunately it is getting short now after many trips to the grinder but it probably has a bit a life left. I believe this file may have withstood the test of time as it was a very old Wiltshire and I understand that the early files may have used better steel and hardening/tempering methods. I'm not recommending the use of old files for turning tools as you can buy a similar size HSS bar for around $30 but I may have got lucky with this one.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mareeba Far Nth Qld
    Age
    83
    Posts
    3,070

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    I make my own tool handles. The driving spur is removed from the headstock and put into the tail stock. Mark the centres on the blank fit between the driving spur in the tailstock, move the tool rest up to touch the handle blank and lock it. Back the tailstock of a few millimetres and start the lathe on a low speed, 300-400rpm. Hold the blank against the tool rest and wind the tailstock forward 12mm and unwind. Repeat until the hole is about 50mm deep. You will not even need a glove to hold the blank. Replace the driving spur into the head stock, a revolving centre in the tailstock and shape the handle to suit. I have used this system successfully now for a long tome To fit tools with a tapered shank, use the taper as a reamer and stop about 12mm from max depth and drive the handle the last bit.

    I make my own scraping tools, by silver soldering pieces of heavy machine hack saw to mild steel, cheap and very effective.

    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

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