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1st June 2021, 04:52 PM #31
Wheel axles
It's now time to get the wheel axles sorted out.
I've never had any machinery which doesn't use roller bearings. This is unfamiliar territory to me, and I welcome any thoughts and observations. At the outset, I will state an assumption that the bandsaw is supposed to use grease, and not oil, based on slow RPM and high loads. Though in reality I am not confident in this assumption so am open to being corrected by anyone experienced in these old machines.
Top wheel
I don't need to really do anything for the top wheel, as everything appears to be A-OK. The lubrication appears straight forward though, as there is a grease nipple at the end of the axle, with an internal channel delivering it to the centre of the wheel hub. I would assume then that every so often I just pump in some grease and wipe off what squeezes out of the ends, which is capped on one side by the blade tensioning traveller, and an axle cap on the other.
First photo shows all assembled. Second photo shows channel where the grease enters the axle. Third photo shows a shallow hole near the end where the cap screw locates, and the grease exit hole further along.
20210531_180848.jpg 20210531_181212.jpg 20210531_181206.jpg
What I did find odd though is that there is no bushing at all. Just the axle directly on the wheel casting. It is however a very snug fit with no perceivable play, yet spins freely, so whatever the reason, it's worked well.
20210531_181125.jpg 20210531_181146.jpg
Bottom wheel
The bottom wheel however is a little trickier and am hoping some people with more knowledge can offer advice.
The axle housing is bolted onto the main casting with what I am assuming is a bronze bush at the front and back, each roughly 29 x 35 x 40 mm (ID x OD x W). It's hard to see, but there appears to be a fair bit of wear on the front bush. Additionally both bushings appear to have lots of scouring marks (as does the axle). Is this normal, or a consequence of having been run dry at some stage?
Photos show front bearing, rear bearing, axle housing.
20210531_180057.jpg 20210601_145708.jpg 20210601_145559.jpg
Additionally, on the top of the axle housing is a threaded (unsure exactly, bit it doesn't have smooth walls as assume it's threaded, roughly 6 mm or 1/4" inner diameter) hole which emerges between both bushes. There was no grease nipple on here, and interestingly enough, doesn't fit the top wheel nipple which is a larger diameter. Am I correct in assuming that this hole should have a grease nipple too, and in use the whole cavity would be pumped full of grease such that it is forced out between the axle and bushes? It did strike me as odd that if this is intended for a grease nipple that they put it at the base of the webbing, which would make screwing it in harder than it needs to be.
Photos show top of axle casting (noot noot). I don't know what the front hole is, but it doesn't go all the way through. Second photo is a closeup of the through hole. Third is inside with a light shining through the hole.
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And then there is the axle. You can clearly see the scouring marks where it rotates in the bushings. Photos show the shaft as assembled with front wheel -> hand crank chain sprocket -> end cap -> drive pulley. The longitudinal position of the axle is set by the chain sprocket and end cap fastened snug against the axle housing. The last photo shows that there is a fair bit of play between the axle and front bush (1.5 mm difference between the axle diameter and bush ID). I would be interested to know if this would have been as per design, or rather excessive wear. If wear, what gap should I be aiming for?
20210531_180718.jpg 20210531_180721.jpg 20210531_175907.jpg
In dealing with the bottom wheel, my plan is to get new bushings. I assume I need to clean up the axle to remove the scouring. Off the shelf bushes will need a couple of mm bored out to accommodate the axle. The does also give me the option of reducing the axle diameter by a smidgen when cleaning up the scouring.
Alternatively, there is enough material in the axle housing for me to bore it out and fit new roller bearings.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Are my assumptions anywhere wrong?
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1st June 2021 04:52 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd June 2021, 10:32 PM #32
Id be sticking with original and getting it running right Lance. Definitely not re doing with roller bearings . It seems strange that it has bronze bushing down on the low wheel but not up high . Maybe the bottom wore out first and was repaired ? Older machines with Babbitt bearings and probably Bronze bushed like yours used to have Cool looking Oilers supplying a steady drip of oil to the bearing . A squirt of grease is good though I think . Here's the oilers . 1/8"-1/2" BSP Brass Sight Gravity Drip Feed Oiler Lubricator For Hit Miss Engine | eBay
Rob
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2nd June 2021, 11:24 PM #33
Coming in late. Have a look at Chris Vesper's Bandasaurus on his website for a restoration model.
Envious in Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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3rd June 2021, 09:03 AM #34.
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What your BS has are called plain bearings.
Roller bearings are different in that steel rollers are used instead of balls.
The other thing is, many old machines use "grease nipples" as oiling points The Hercus metal mill is common example. Folks who don't read their instructions end up greasing them, which long term can stuff them up. If they are intended to be oiled it needs to be applied often depending on used. My Hercus lathe has plain bearings and that needs to be oiled on a very regular basis.
I'd say the lower one probably had a oiler/grease nipple but it got lost/knocked off.
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3rd June 2021, 09:56 AM #35Try not to be late, but never be early.
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Lance,
I'm wondering, if not oilers, the original lubricators were grease cups? These can be given a part turn from time to time through the day to keep the bearings lubricated. Apart from having to be filled when they run out, grease cups are more convenient than a grease gun in this application. The lower shaft may have had one cup for each bush, which would explain the two holes. If this is the case, each bush would have originally had a hole that lined up with the grease cup and perhaps even a spiral groove on the inside face to help distribute the grease.
Cheers,
Geoff.
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3rd June 2021, 11:24 AM #36.
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Last year I made a similar thing for my Dispersed Oil Particulate generator.
SWMBO glass cutting gear came in real handy.
Jacketed.jpg
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3rd June 2021, 04:50 PM #37Originally Posted by derekcohen
Originally Posted by [COLOR=#3E3E3E
top wheel.jpg
Originally Posted by auscab
I lost half an hour enjoying this video. Make a Drip Feed Lubricator, Oiler - YouTube
Originally Posted by auscabOriginally Posted by [COLOR=#3E3E3E
I think you have both hit the nail on the head. I am fairly certain that the bronze bearings are a later addition. The main giveaway is that the front hole (the one which didn't go all the way through) is also threaded, and the depth when measured and compared to the end profile shows that it is only obstructed by the bronze bearing. This also explains why whilst everything is sized to rounded imperial units, that bearing OD is a perfect 35 mm.
20210603_124326.jpg Cut.png
With respect to the middle hole however, I am at a loss as to how it provided lubrication to the front bearing as it exits into the casting void between the bearings, which is still rough. I had wondered if it was cast with a profile which would have let the oil run down to the bearing, but a cursory inspection suggests not. As can be seen from the photo below (ignore the vernier), there is no access to the casing around the bearing when it is mounted in the bandsaw.
20210531_182105.jpg
I wonder if the current state of both the bearings and shaft is a consequence of lack of lubrication. Talking to my dad a couple of days ago, he spoke of having to machine oil impregnated bronze many moons ago, and how the captive oil used to ooze out when turned. We hypothesised that perhaps when retrofitted, the bearings were oil impregnated, but have subsequently been depleted.
Moving forward, the rear bearing is simple, as I can just extend the hole through a replacement bearing to deliver lubrication. I'm all ears for ideas about getting lubrication to the front bearing however.
Going back to replacement bearing choice, I see that I can purchase roller bearings which will fit in the existing opening, though I will need to turn down the shaft by 0.4 mm (but would need to clean up the shaft anyway due to the wear). This would certainly provide years of maintenance free operation as they are grease retaining. I can always replace them with plain bearings in the future if required.
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3rd June 2021, 06:04 PM #38.
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