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  1. #61
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    Stewie

    I do love a good saw build. The saw screws look good too.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #62
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    May 2008
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    Default backsaw handle stock.

    Queensland Maple dressed down to 23mm thickness for the backsaw handles.

    Stewie;
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #63
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Stewie,
    Are we looking at one off your Planes on the Bench as well.?

    Cheers Matt.

  5. #64
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    Matt; no thats a MATHIESON Try Plane I refurbished a few years ago. Its a shorter version 22" of whats now classed in more modern times as a "Jointer plane".

    Its been sharpened with minimal camber not similar to that of a wooden bodied smoothing plane.

    Most iif not all English type wedge abutment bench planes require a cambered iron as the throat is narrower than the mouth opening.

    I plan to make up some hard templates with 2 location holes that will allow me to precisely mark both sides of the handle blank.

    regards Stewie;
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  6. #65
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    Mar 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    ......I plan to make up some hard templates with 2 location holes that will allow me to precisely mark both sides of the handle blank....
    I'm assuming that's so you can drill the recesses for the bolt head & nut independently, then drill the shank hole? I guess it's a strategy that should work, and you could even do it without a drill press, but I don't think I'd have the confidence I'd get the marks bang-on. Even a little bit of non-concentricity can spoil the look of a handle. I use a home-grown clamping arrangement on my DP to keep the holes concentric, but it's a cumbersome process & prone to silly errors like occasionally forgetting to tighten the DP table on the column...

    I always advocate (& I think you do too) that you do the blade slot & bolt holes first, so if things do go pear-shaped, as they sometimes do, I haven't wasted too much time & effort (but it still hurts if it was a particularly nice bit of wood I'd selected! )

    The other fraught operation is cutting the spine slot. It's not so bad with "sensible" woods like Myrtle & Qld. Maple, but some of the hard, splitty woods like the casuarinas I like to use keep me on my toes!

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #66
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    I'm assuming that's so you can drill the recesses for the bolt head & nut independently, then drill the shank hole? I guess it's a strategy that should work, and you could even do it without a drill press, but I don't think I'd have the confidence I'd get the marks bang-on. Even a little bit of non-concentricity can spoil the look of a handle. I use a home-grown clamping arrangement on my DP to keep the holes concentric, but it's a cumbersome process & prone to silly errors like occasionally forgetting to tighten the DP table on the column...


    Hi Ian; the 2 location holes are used with 2 steel dowels to insure the handle templates placed each sde of the handle stock are correctly aligned with each other. By having the handle shape drawn both sides of the handle stock there is less guess work required when rasping the edge 90* to the 2 primary flats. Hope that makes sense. I will post a photo of how it works in the next few days.

    regards Stewie;

  8. #67
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    Yep, that makes perfect sense Stewie. I smooth the saw cuts & square up with a fine rasp after cutting out, checking I'm getting it right with a small trysquare. When I first started, the cuts were often way off square, but I've done so many & learnt to drive my little bowsaw better, so it's not such a chore now. But your method sounds like a good one to follow...
    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #68
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    Default New handle design.

    Its been a while since I posted an update on the backsaw builds. I wasnt totally happy with the general shape of the Brookes handle. I had shortened the grip length from original, but the neck area between the grip and the cheeks still concerned me. Rather than make further changes to the drawing I put it aside and am using an earlier open handle design that I had used in the past. Its by Moses Eadon (circa 1800s). In the attachments I have also included a photo of the handle template using steel dowels that allows me to accurately mark out the handle shape on both primary flats. It makes the later removal of waste outside the lines so much easier to complete.

    regards Stewie;
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  10. #69
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    Germany
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    Hi Stewie,

    that is a very nice pattern! I think for a long toime, that moses eadon made the most beautiful handlepattern. Very fluent.

    Cheers
    Pedder

  11. #70
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    Thanks Pedder; I am certain I made the right choice in moving away from the Brookes handle, to the handle shape provided by Moses Eadon.

    regards Stewie;

  12. #71
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    Australia
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    Waste removal outside the lines was completed on the 6 handles.

    The saw bolts have been installed using a 1/2" pilot counterbore.

    To achieve additional clearance with the bottom horn of the handle the toothlines have been canted to a value of 1mm per 1 inch length.

    regards Stewie;












    '
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  13. #72
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    Stewie

    Those handles are coming up nicely. I tend to use re-purposed Glover style screws, because that it what I have and don't have a lathe, but I love the look of the modern split nut style. Seeing the screw flush with the timber provides a very appealing contrast and always looks as though it was meant to be.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #73
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    Paul; The beauty of using the pilot counterbores for the saw bolts is that the outer seat remains concentric to the shank bore.

    regards Stewie;

  15. #74
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    Hi Stewie. Love the nuts and the handles. I'm sure you have already told us but what is the timber?

  16. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Hi Stewie. Love the nuts and the handles. I'm sure you have already told us but what is the timber?
    MA; I am not 100% positive on the species. It could be Amoora or young growth Jarrah. Likely its Jarrah. Rasping the side grain was quite easier, but the end grain was a bit of a hard slog.

    The 1/2" saw bolts are from Gramercy i purchased around 5yr ago. Thats about how long its been since I delved away from making backsaws.

    regards Stewie;

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