Thread: V Line (Victorian Railways) Y Class Diesel Locomotive

Hi Derek,

Thanks for your question.

The mounting plate is 50 X 50 Aluminium angle.

I cut out the bottom of the channel with a hacksaw then milled the channel to ensure the angle sat flush with the base of the channel. I the bolted the angle through the back of the channel. Came up pretty good

9.jpg 10.jpg 11.jpg

Regards

Keith

How unusual for the brake cylinders to be on the frame, but there is a reason why. Most diesel railway locomotives have the brake cylinders mounted on the bogies. This means there is less rodding to work with. In the case of the Y class, they were built to reuse bogies from under suburban passenger cars which would have a brake cylinder centrally mounted on the frame and then rodding to each bogie, hence what you see here.

Like your work.

Thank you Keith just could not see in the previous post keep them coming

Originally Posted by Handyjack

How unusual for the brake cylinders to be on the frame, but there is a reason why. Most diesel railway locomotives have the brake cylinders mounted on the bogies. This means there is less rodding to work with. In the case of the Y class, they were built to reuse bogies from under suburban passenger cars which would have a brake cylinder centrally mounted on the frame and then rodding to each bogie, hence what you see here.

Like your work.

Thanks for your detailed information Kevin.

Hope you and your family are all well.

Regards from Keith and Cathie

Hi All,

Been working on the subframe of the locomotive. I have used 40 X 20 aluminium channel and 50 X 50 aluminium angle as the main materials in the frame. Used 3mm screws / bolts as my method of joining all the components. I have primed all the aluminium in acrylic primer surfacer. This gives a much better paint base when painting the aluminium with acrylic finish coat.
The locomotive will be 1350mm long at completion.
Happy how it's coming along

Regards

Keith

12.jpg 13.jpg

Hi All,

Made up the Air Reservoirs out of PVC pipe and turned the ends out of pine in the wood lathe and araldited them in. Joins were body filled and then sanded. End covers are 3mm MDF.

14.jpg

I have now made up my framework for the Reservoirs and fitted the to the main locomotive framework. My next task is to make up the reservoir pipework.

15.jpg

Regards

Keith

Excellent work.

Nice pieces of work Keith, it certainly pays to have a wood lathe in the workshop

Keith, your work is amazing.

Hi All,

Hope everyone had a good Christmas and wishing you all a safe and enjoyable 2023.

Slow work on the locomotive.

Doing more pipework and installing 8 sand boxes (one for each wheel on this locomotive) To get the correct shape and angle of the pipework to the wheels from the sandbox - I first used some 2mm soft wire as a template or sample for me to bend the 4mm rod to the correct shape from the sandbox to the wheels. Photos below

16.jpg 17.jpg

A mate once told me not to build a diesel locomotive as it is just a brick on wheels. However - I have found this very enjoyable so far. The are lots of challenges just trying to get all the components to fit in.

18.jpg 19.jpg

This is a photo of the side lifted up so you can see without the shadow

20.jpg

Keep Safe

Regards

Keith

Hi All,

Happy New Year to you all.

On this locomotive there are lots of elbows and valves. I will show how I make them up.

I make mine out of aluminium but there is no reason they can't be made out of timber.

Step 1 is to machine up the 2 halves of the valve or elbow. I used 10mm aluminium and drilled a 4mm hole through both parts. The bottom section connects to an 8mm hose so I also drilled an 8mm hole along half the length

21.jpg

Step 2 is to bend 4mm mild steel rod or wire at 90 degrees and then fit the 2 halves to it

22.jpg 23.jpg

Step 3 Mix up bodyfiller and fill up the gap. Ensure no air holes. It looks pretty terrible but it will clean up OK

24.jpg

Step 4 Using files and sandpaper of varying grit size - smooth up the elbow / valve

25.jpg

Step 5 I then fitted the handle. If making a valve handle, it is easier to drill for this in Step 1. Then paint.

26.jpg

This completes the valve or elbow.

Regards

Keith

Nice job Keith I need to make some elbows but to take steam so will be made from brass or bronze I will drill the centre of the bar stock and then cut at 45deg then silver solder each end will be threaded either internal or external depending on the needs for that elbow

Originally Posted by Dalboy

Nice job Keith I need to make some elbows but to take steam so will be made from brass or bronze I will drill the centre of the bar stock and then cut at 45deg then silver solder each end will be threaded either internal or external depending on the needs for that elbow

All the best with your live steamer Derek. Look forward to your posts.

Regards

Keith

Hi All,

A bit more time in the shed, so the diesel locomotive is progressing.

The prototype loco has mesh as the bottom step. I found an old speaker with mesh that was the correct scale so I cut it up and adapted to suit the bottom steps on the 4 sets of access steps

27.jpg 28.jpg

The air hoses are 8mm "O" ring material and the 8 sets of valves (4 each end) are valves I made as shown in post on 12th January.

coupling.jpg

The couplers are made from 70 X 35 pine, cut out on my scroll saw. I got the sample sketch of the couplers by googling "Diesel coupling"

The locomotive ends are made from pine and primed with Automotive Acrylic Primer Surfacer. I have found in the past that this gives the best paint base prior to finish paintwork.

The length of my model is 1500mm from coupling end to coupling end.

29.jpg

I am happy how this locomotive is coming along and have found it very enjoyable to work on.

Best Regards

Keith