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28th November 2022, 10:57 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Just put some proper thought into this and did a sketch. The dimensions are guestimates.
mortise.jpg
So if we want 40mm depth each side we would need about 75mm plunge depth on the table side. This gives up 25mm for the base of the tool and to hold into the chuck? I suppose an extension could be used. Thoughts on this? You think 40mm depth would be enough for a large table?
So what even is a multi router? I googled it and it came up with the woodpeckers multi router which looks like the pantorouter? Who invented it first? I cant find anywhere to buy the woodpeckers multi router. Or, is the multirouter a generic term for a machine?
edit: looks like carbitool still makes that bit
router.PNG
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28th November 2022 10:57 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th November 2022, 11:33 PM #17Taking a break
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Doable, but I'd like to see at least 2 dowels per joint. If you're just plunging it might be better with a drill bit? That much router bit hanging out just makes me nervous and you could go deeper with a drill. You'd also need some roller stands to support the work because the machine table is only little.
So what even is a multi router? I googled it and it came up with the woodpeckers multi router which looks like the pantorouter? Who invented it first? I cant find anywhere to buy the woodpeckers multi router. Or, is the multirouter a generic term for a machine?
edit: looks like carbitool still makes that bit
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29th November 2022, 01:13 AM #18
So I sent Nathan a question yesterday.
His reply . Yes its Jarrah floating tenons . They make a jig and use the DXL (Domino XL ).
And like some of you said above I think? The threaded rod is for gluing into an enlarged hole . Not tightening the joint as I thought. Totally new idea to me !
He said he has moved away from doing it like that now and does smaller dominos with many smaller threaded rods.
His inspiration for doing it this way was "Makepeace"
I don't want to push my luck with more questions but I did ask two more. If it was John Makepeace ? And also how he clamps the legs on .
He's a generous guy with his info .
Rob
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29th November 2022, 09:29 AM #19
Good detective work, Elan. Woodpecker bought MultiRouter two years ago.
Woodpeckers acquires the Multi-Router - Woodshop News
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29th November 2022, 09:34 AM #20
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29th November 2022, 09:43 AM #21
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29th November 2022, 09:54 AM #22
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29th November 2022, 09:58 AM #23
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29th November 2022, 03:43 PM #24Taking a break
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29th November 2022, 05:28 PM #25
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29th November 2022, 07:17 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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Regardless, with all the fixings on one plane and so little control over racking, I don’t reckon that table would stay tight for very long.
Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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29th November 2022, 09:17 PM #27GOLD MEMBER
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I messaged Nathan too but he didnt reply - though I did it via a comment. Your right he does explain a lot on instagram.
Threaded rod into oversize hole - how much bigger should the hole be? Suggestions on an epoxy? I have heard Techniglue is the best but is very pricey. Thoughts on what type of threaded rod? Theres many different types of steel
Threaded Rod - Bunnings Australia
This place even has high tensile but is it necessary?
Threaded Rod | Allfasteners Australia
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29th November 2022, 09:23 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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Oh just saw in a post above that the hole should be about double the size of the screw. Is even a point of having the screw then? This is a stupid question, but couldnt you just have an 'epoxy' dowel?
In a joint like this, where the holes are horizontal, if the hole is that much bigger than the screw, how do you stop the screw from dropping? you end up with majority of the epoxy above the screw with very little under the screw and some of it will be contacting the timber
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29th November 2022, 11:17 PM #29
These issues are discussed in depth in Gourgeon Brothers book - probably still in your local library. Issues include:
- Diameter of hole - double diameter of threaded rod, from memory,
- Depth of hole - excessive depth has no advantage,
- Types of metal in thread - Monel, bronze, mild steel, high tensile steel, stainless, etc,
I usually use WEST System epoxies or a local fibre glass shops generic copy for everything. In my opinion, there is not a lot of difference between major epoxy brands, but all have their quirks. You are better off choosing one and building experience with its ideosyncrasies.
One clever trick is to drill 5mm deep the same diameter as the bolt at the bottom of the hole; this centralises and stabilises the bolt while the epoxy is poured and sets.
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29th November 2022, 11:32 PM #30
It's available as a PDF on the West Systems website.
https://www.westsystem.com/wp-conten...k-061205-1.pdfMobyturns
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