Thread: (Drill) pressed for space?

Originally Posted by Groggy

I had a few problems with the installation, in particular my POS Sherwood DP is a three pulley tool whereas Pirci Design advertise mods to a two pulley tool. It would have been nice to know before I got stuck into the mods, but maybe I missed it.

Pic 1 shows the plate obstructing the V belt.

Pic 2 view shows how the lower two positions are lost.

Was there a reason why you didn't just move the pulley to a position half way between the belt, and orient it so that it was ~parallel to the belts? The weight and wire should still run on the pulley set up this way.

Originally Posted by BobL

Was there a reason why you didn't just move the pulley to a position half way between the belt, and orient it so that it was ~parallel to the belts? The weight and wire should still run on the pulley set up this way.

yes, there is. The center pulley position varies depending on which speeds are selected. That was the best position I could find and still have the pulley central (ish) over the pillar.

Edit: Terry has just got home from the show and answered my email. He said "Yes, this is encountered occasionally. I usually recommend fitting a slightly shorter belt on the front pulleys, and a slightly longer one on the back if necessary This has the effect of positioning the middle idler pulleys forward out of the way."

Despite what Terry said, I am thinking that I should be able to work something out if I sit and think a bit. What you said has me thinking that I have not spent enough time trying to nut it out, trying to rush as usual.

I measured the gap between the lowest pulley position of the belt coming off the motor and the casing underneath. My gap is 23 mm, I was thinking of making a pulley that is say 16mm in diameter to sit in that gap?Would that work for you?

One other thing, my drill is also 16 speed so there is one more more pulley position to worry about.

Talking about easy risers combined with my weekly rummage through the shorts bin at work turned up a 3" diam x 8" long bit of steel rod which I though might make the counter weight for such a gizmo. A further rummage through the home odds and sods box turned up a couple of shackles, a small pulley and eye bolt, and couple of metres of 3mm stainless cable. All I needed to buy were a couple of cable clamps and whala! - I was in business.

It seems to work slightly better being attached to the remains of the crank rather than the locking mechanism. I though it might clank and clunk and get in the way but it doesn't. Dropping the table is fine but it may need an extra kg or 2 to assist the lift since I tend to leave the 100 mm cross sliding vice on what is already a bigger table than usual (Pict 1). The picture with the WASP on is just so you can more easily see the cables in the photo.

Best of all for me, no more skinned knuckles from working the crank in between the DP and the adjacent bench.

Best of all for me, no more skinned knuckles from working the crank in between the DP and the adjacent bench.

Yeah! My experience exactly.

I also have the WASP - useful but not a replacement for my stationary belt sander combo.

The other recent addition of great success has been a keyless chuck.

Regards from Perth

Derek

BobL: that's a great DIY version of the riser! i guess it's easier to set up with the weight just hanging outside like yours. that's given me ideas!