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  1. #271
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    Howdy,

    If the factory pine boards are glued with a glue that is basically waterproof it will all be fine by the time the foils are glassed.

    We used cheap fingerjointed pine for the foils on our original two boats. And glued them with one of the new crosslinked PVA glues that are suitable for exterior woodwork.

    When designing the centreboard and rudder I kept the thickness down to 22mm for a couple of reasons. To keep the weight down and to reduce the amount of timber and the amount of shaping.

    The width of the individual laminations needs to be less than around 50mm to prevent the timber warping or twisting the boards.

    Can you get them thicknessed down to 22mm? Then they would be perfect without any changes.

    Michael.

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  3. #272
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    There are a few resources on other threads in this forum for the PDRs.



    Trailer Alternatives
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=72253

    Building a PDR in the Philippines
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=69895

    Building three PDRs in Africa
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=69870

    Building a PDR in ........... Adelaide
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=70173

    Using a Sunfish sail on an OZ PDR (USA only - free drawing - good option for frostbiting)
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=69806

    Lug rig option for PDRacer (Free option for plan holders)
    http://pdracer.blogspot.com/2007/10/...or-oz-pdr.html

    The general OZ PDR website
    http://www.pdracer.info



    BTW - the PDR is one of the few OZ dinghies you can leave tied up and in the water with the mast up. Take the centreboard and rudder blades out first. On a moderate day they are quite happy with sail up too - just release the mainsheet.

    Best wishes
    Michael

  4. #273
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    Howdy, this is just for posterity, so people looking at this PDRacer thread in posterity can have a link to the

    Three American PDRacers that sailed 200 miles in 5 days.

    MIK

  5. #274
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Romania
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    32

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    After a long brake I am back in boatbuilding. This is how it looks now.
    I am building the lug rig version, but I don't know where to tie the halyard and the downhaul. I have some ideas, but as I have no experience, I think I better ask...

  6. #275
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    It is so pretty Gyula!!!

    Did I sent you the extra pages for the lug rig?

    If you look at the extra plan it gives some idea of the position of the sail in relationship to the mast.

    But for the methods it is best to look here.
    http://www.storerboatplans.com/Faq/t...rformance.html.

    The pulley attached to the yard at the top of the sail it tied at the middle of the yard. The downhaul for the boom it attached at the position shown in the lug supplement.



    I have recently got some pics from Dan Taylor ... I will start a separate thread or find the old lug one to put the pictures up in some context ... but here are the first PDR Lug sail pics



    From Dan's story it sounds like the sail can be moved a little bit further forward compared to the mast. I suggested 100mm.



    Best wishes
    Michael.

  7. #276
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    What are the pros and cons of lug over the sprit Mik? Is it merely a 'what you like' decision?

    Richard

  8. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddles View Post
    What are the pros and cons of lug over the sprit Mik? Is it merely a 'what you like' decision?

    Richard
    Your answer about comparative rigs, lug or sprit, will be up in a moment in another thread. I just wrote an email today. The best choices for rigs that perform well and don't cost much are a freestanding mast with a Balance lug, the triangular sprit sail and the Lateen.

    This is on the premise (a reasonable one) that a boat with a single sail will be MUCH cheaper than a boat with multiple sails.

    So just wait a minute or 10 and I will do some cut and pasting.

    MIK

  9. #278
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    Jun 2007
    Location
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    Did I sent you the extra pages for the lug rig?
    Yes, of course, and I read here where to tie the yard http://www.storerboatplans.com/GIS/GISRigging.html
    I was just wondering where to put the cleats for the halyard and the downhaul

  10. #279
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    Hi Gyula,

    The cleat goes on the side of the mast the same as the sprit rig. The sail will go on the opposite side to this cleat.

    The downhaul is changed though, you are quite right. The sprit rig has a saddle that is behind the mast. Move to the deck beside the mast. It needs to be on the same side as the sail of course.

    It can screw (use epoxy in the hole and make them about 37mm long into the wood) into the mast partner under the deck.

    YOu don't necessarily need to have a cleat unless you want to adjust a lot while sailing or make reefing easier. The cleat can go on the foredeck behind the saddle. It will be asymmetrical, but that is the strongest place to fit it.

    Best wishes
    Michael

  11. #280
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    Jun 2007
    Location
    Romania
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    Almost ready......
    Today I finished sewing the sail. It was the single part of the boatbuilding process that I didn't liked, but it is ready now. There are some minor details to do and next week I hope to launch it

  12. #281
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    today...

    Attachment 78496

  13. #282
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    Hi Gyula,

    Looks FANTASTIC!!!

    Have a careful look at the drawing for the rig in the plan ... there are a couple of little adjustements.

    I think the rig might be a little too far forward compared to the mast. Also the sail is at the right height but the bottom of the sail needs to be a little higher at the back.

    Just to remember what it looks like ..




    Michael

  14. #283
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    Romania
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    It is a trial fit only. I was so curious to see how it looks like....
    I've put a temporary downhaul and square lashing but the boom always slipped forward a bit.

  15. #284
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    There usually needs to be a lot of tension on the downhaul and that usually stops the boom from slipping forward.

    There should be enough tension to bend the yard at the top of the sail around 20 to 25mm in the middle.

    In stronger winds use even more tension. I only mention the position so that when you go sailing the boat will behave in the best way possible!!!

    But Gyula, I do have to say, it looks magnificent!

    Best wishes
    Michael

  16. #285
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    Both the rate of reported PDR builds and the proportion of OZ PDRs in those builds are increasing.

    hmmm - the pics seem to have gone missing. How sad. I will grab the last one (Darkwing) because it is a classic and attach it at the bottom

    hull #224
    Oklahoma ... Gary Thomas' "The Monkey"


    Hull #236
    Minnesota ... Wyatt Koehler's "CC Endurance"


    Hull #243
    Australia ... Adrian Slootjes "Jemima"


    Hull #244
    Louisiana ... RJ Munn's "Ugly Betty"


    Hull #253
    Georgia ... Ryan Duggins' "unnamed"


    Hull #255
    Georgia ... Matt Moody's "Ashley Lynn"


    And finally my very favourite photo of the quality time that a PDR makes possible...

    Hull #258
    Texas ... Andy Yates' "Darkwing"


    Congratulations and Best wishes
    Michael Storer

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