Building a shed out of green acacia celsa

Ok my shed burnt down a while back and finally back on my feet and ready to build another. The basic floor dimension is 12 x 6 m. I have cleats still in the slab from previous steel shed. I would like to build another shed using the wattle I have here (acacia celsa) and am figuring on milling it and using it virtually straight away. I would like to use it for the wall posts (4x4) which bolt onto the cleats, and 4x2 for the framing. I would like to also use 6 x 1 for vertical external cladding with 2x1 to cover the cladding gaps as they shrink. I have scrounged most of the hardware, got a few jerry cans of petrol, sharpened the mill blades and services the Lucas, and have got a baby on the way, so I have a sense of urgency with this project. I have been in steel sheds my whole life and am really keen on having a full timber workshop(except for tin roof), and now may be my chance. I am hoping anyone with any experience in building using green timber can help out with some advice. I also would like to build a deck using the same wattle as joists 6x2 and decking boards 4x1 in an exposed area..

As a structural timber it'll run to F14 green but it has poor external durabillity and wont last at all if in ground contact. It'll be fine for all above ground not weather exposed situations: batten, internal framing, rafters etc. It would be a waste of your time and money to try and use it for decking or joists, but it does make for a really nice T&G floor.

Thanks John G, you had saved me a bunch of time from being wasted, and time is precious .OK on that note the wattle will be only used for wall frames and rafters in the shed. I will have to look for another species to use for external cladding. Dammit! The wattles are easily accessible.. I have a friend with a bunch of carribean pine, and I have a few cypress here. I would much rather leave the cypress to grow on a bit, but might have to go for a bushwalk through the property again...

If you've got cypress in that country then you should have red stringy. For above ground structural applications it's better then all of the above: class 1 above ground, class 2 in ground, runs to F22 if it's not veined out badly, though most of what I cut up there was a pretty consistantly F17 due to gum vein. Try and stick with logs under 600mm dbh and you'll get less vein, remembering that tight vein is a non issue, it's only loose vein that is a structural ( rather then appearance) limiting factor.
Save the cypress for in ground use unless you've got heaps. Cypress presents its own issues anyway.

Only place in Australia its (RMY) considered crap timber is up here, rest of the country call it Red Mahogany and give it a price premium. Spoilt we are...

Thanks John G, I appreciate your valuable advise. I don't have any Red Stringy on my property, I have some rainforest hardwoods (more value to me as a standing tree), cypress pine(only few with decent diameter of 350mm plus), and tons of wattle. If only sarsaparilla trees had a use........ I have milled a bunch of 4 inch boards out of the wattle, and will keep asking around locally if there are any logs about. I will go board and batten and was hoping I could use the wattle for the external boards, but upon good advise I shall look for a different type of timber. ANy thoughts on using the carribean pine for external cladding ?

Ok, All has worked out well, a neighbor has offered me a big Tallow wood, so that will be my posts and roof beams etc... Got some good advice from a retired local miller who said don't waste time on the local large caribbean pine due to the high sap content and the problems it poses for my application. In the fashion of a true gentleman, he said I can have 2 large hoop pines in a back paddock and then I can see what I think. Said I can have more if I want em, just ask.I only mill for what I need so I think 2 30 metre, 800 wide at base pine trees should sort some internal linings out for the big shed.