Hand Scraping a Hand Plane to .0001" Accuracy

G'Day,
Greetings from the USA.
I have decided to Metal Scrape an imported hand plane that i bought new for less than $10 USD, just for the fun of it.
I'm going to give the project away after it's completion.

If you like metalwork and you have never seen metal scraping being performed or it's result, i would recommend taking a look at youtube under hand scraping or Biax Scraping. like this great, but lengthy, video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvZFOyo63Ks

the video inspired me to do the same thing , with a lesser quality plane that was more dimensionally challenged.
some pictures for the interested!
Attachment 340755
Attachment 340756 this picture left shows the poor contact, illustrating the initial rub on my surface plate
Attachment 340757 this pic was taken after the first scraping cycle, there was instant improvement- contact on 4 points


Here are pictures taken as the process improves the flatness of the planes face:


Attachment 340758Attachment 340759Attachment 340760Attachment 340761Attachment 340762Attachment 340763Attachment 340764Attachment 340765Attachment 340766Attachment 340767

the pictures below illustrate the use of a 1" ball bearing being utilized to apply the force of the vice jaw to the plane without damage.
Attachment 340769Attachment 340768

i did make a youtube video that is redundant of the pictures you have seen here, only put to music.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJQyAG8SR3E

thank you for reading and watching.
comments and questions are welcome!

If you are interested in having your hand plane reconditioned to a instrument of accuracy,
send an email to biaxscraper@yahoo (dot) com

Is this one of those 'because I can' projects.
My understanding was that a relieved area behind the iron offered less friction.
As the plane had that naturally why not stop there?
Did it blue flat when the iron was clamped back in?
H.

Hello,
this is a Because I Can ,type of thread :D

the scraped finish leaves minimal friction across the sole of the plane during it's intended role.
i have not finished the project i'm still working on it.
here are a few more pictures!

Attachment 341005
Attachment 341006

Above are the sides of the hand plane after a few scraping cycles.

Below are the same sides after considerable scraping.
the first picture shows the hand scraping of a first time student who was interested in the craft.
I was able to show him the methods and he did some really nice work as you can see.
the second picture is the same side after a few cycles with the Biax scraper. it will soon be completed to my satisfaction.
Attachment 341007

Attachment 341008


I started to contemplate the blades' accuracy in manufacture.
i knew it wasn't going to be good, the pictures tell the ugly truth...
Attachment 341010
Attachment 341011
The areas in blue show the only contact on my surface plate.
if i were making this plane, it wouldn't have ever left my shop in the less than poor shape it was sold and received in.
i knew the chinese stuff was junk but i have no idea how they can even get away with such inaccuracy.
the project continues...
thanks for reading.

Ulma Doctor
Greetings from "The Great South Land"
A while ago I hands scraped a No 3 Stanley Plane, its good & now works well. (The plane is old Patent Aug 1902)
Although I have a Surface Grinding Machine the hand scraping adds a bit of interest to the tool, & its very accurate ! Also provides less area in contact, when planning, owing to the small "pockets" made by the scraping.
The blade you have shown can be very easily corrected with a Peening Hammer.
Mine is homemade, from toolsteel then hardened & tempered, its got a cross peen with edge ground (off hand) at 90 degrees, the sharp edge has about a 1/64" radius.
The blade to be flattened, is placed on a flat steel block, concave side up, then firm, but light hits, about 1/8" apart are made across the concave, with the cross peen of the hammer.
This imparts a compressive stress & curves or straightens the hardened blade.
I have accomplished this many times, & it is very gentle, yet very accurate results, are achieved.
Final honing & or lapping of the cutting edge can then be made.
regards
Bruce

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Abratool

Ulma Doctor
Greetings from "The Great South Land"
A while ago I hands scraped a No 3 Stanley Plane, its good & now works well. (The plane is old Patent Aug 1902)
Although I have a Surface Grinding Machine the hand scraping adds a bit of interest to the tool, & its very accurate ! Also provides less area in contact, when planning, owing to the small "pockets" made by the scraping.
The blade you have shown can be very easily corrected with a Peening Hammer.
Mine is homemade, from toolsteel then hardened & tempered, its got a cross peen with edge ground (off hand) at 90 degrees, the sharp edge has about a 1/64" radius.
The blade to be flattened, is placed on a flat steel block, concave side up, then firm, but light hits, about 1/8" apart are made across the concave, with the cross peen of the hammer.
This imparts a compressive stress & curves or straightens the hardened blade.
I have accomplished this many times, & it is very gentle, yet very accurate results, are achieved.
Final honing & or lapping of the cutting edge can then be made.
regards
Bruce

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G'Day Bruce,
Thank you very much for the information!:D
i'll employ the technique for the blade!!!
Cheers,
mike:)