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Anybody who may know the answer please divulge. I cannot seem to budge this grate in the shower floor!
I do not know whether to turn clock, or anti-clockwise, how many turns, or part turns, before trying to lift it out.
It is brass, possibly cast and I don't want to destroy it.
If it is frozen in place? how would you release it? Heat or oil?
Any answer other than to tell me to pay a plumber would be most gratefully accepted.
Thank you for reading and hope for helpful response.
regards, Ned
I've never had any problem unscrewing one counter clockwise to remove it. There's probably a tool for the job, but if you don't have one, a piece of wood with two cut-off thick nails protruding will make a suitable tool. If it's stuck, I'd give WD40 a try, unless someone here knows of a reason not to.
Aren't these things just a gasket under grill and then one below floor. I always had to go under the house and unscrew the collar from there and then the thing pushed out. A bit like the one under the kitchen sink.
Maybe its a difference between before 1970 fittings and after 70's when it all went pvc.
Firstly that's a very nice shower grate. I'm fairly certain it will be a turn counter-clockwise. It could be threaded but they often just have lugs on the side of the grate. When fitting the grate the lugs drop down into keys in the floor fitting and a slight turn locks them in. Removal is then the reverse.
To move it I would normally put something down vertically in the outer slot and hit it from side on, but I like Alex's idea. Try to clean out around the edge of the grate as much as possible and a bit of tapping around the outer rim may help loosen things up too, and as Alex says, a bit of WD40.
Good luck:)
Thanks for the replies guys, I did try a block off wood with three nails driven in. They bent. My concern is not to break the grille.
I might try and do a "rubbing" of the grate, transfer it to wood, and use small bolts to closely fit into the grille so as to distribute pressure more evenly and less chance of cracking the casting. My worry was continuing to twist if in fact it was only a "small turn and lift".
I will wait a little longer for answers that may reduce my fears.
regards,
Ned
As close a look as the pix allows me - there appears to be a fair amount of "crud" around the circumference - this may just be body fats, hair, general crud - but, it may also be grout. If there was a slight gap when it was screwed in and then grouted, there could be the problem.
As you already have a pix of the "problem" - perhaps a visit to the local plumbing shop could also give you some clues.
Failing that, if you have any dental type tools ie a very fine hook on a rod then try to clean out the gap around the circumference first. If it is grout then you will need to clean the thread as much as possible to avoid breaking what appears to be an unusual grate. If it is grout and is too difficult to remove, you could get a little more brutal and try vinegar to try and break it down or if you want to get really brutal - try hydrochloric acid [dilute and dripped only onto the grout surrounding the grate - use an eyedropper or similar, don't just pour it on] [if you don't have any ask someone with a pool for a tiny amount as it is concentrated] - probably not a really good idea as you may need to regrout around the area if you have been sloppy in its application. Use extreme caution if you go the acid route as the stuff can bite badly if you are sloppy.
Any grates I have ever removed have either just unscrewed or as has been mentioned move approx 45 - 90 degrees and lift out.
Not sure if it helps, but just something to ponder.
Thanks for the reply Bob - will have a good look and try out your suggestions.
regards, Ned
Put this thread on the Renovate Forums and you may get a plumber to answer.
A plumber already has:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Handyjack
Dont use WD40, if it gets into the grouting, it breaks done the grout and ten it starts coming out also changes the colour of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexS
Use a larger bladed screw driver or small cold chisel in the junction of the perimeter and one of the grate ribs, tap gently in one direction, then repeat in opposite direction and alternate tis process a few times, then using multigrips, with jaws in opposite locations, twist each way with a shifter until it turns considerably more one way than the other, then lift out.
When you replace it, use plumbers grease (the lubricant for tap spindles)to lubricate both contacting surfaces and this will prevent seizing in the future.
I used 2 sets of pliers on my 1940-1950'ish shower grate. One set of needle-nosed pliers into the openings in the grate then another pair -Vice Grips - onto the box joint of the needle-nose pliers and use those to turn the grate. If the needle-nose pliers are of reasonable quality they won't break or twist.