sourcing timber on sunshine coast for f/v ilur

Hi all well I have started my f/v ilur and the kit arrived last week. but I am having more problems sourcing the other timber I need.can anyone suggest anywhere I can get the extra timber I need.im not after anything exotic.just mahogany or euro beech for the hard and oregan for the rest. if you know of anywhere from here to Brisbane could you please let me know.or any comments on the timber I have chosen would be much appreciated.

just a little note on the kit.I have only built the strongback so far but I am blown away with the precise cutting of this kit if the rest is like this im sure even I can build this vessel.

thanks for reading and any info.gaz.

http://boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.p...1d9cc75b6d66ad
Hope this helps,
Dave.

Thanks Dave I have been in contact with boatcraft and they supplied all my epoxy and many other things .but the timber did not suit because on the cutting list there are lots of sizes that they don't have.and id still have to sourse plenty more so id rather get the timber from one place.im still waiting for a quote from gowan lea.but would still like another option.

thanks again for your reply Gaz

Hi all i have been lucky enough to sourse a large lot of huon pine.plenty for my needs but it has been shellact so my question is how deep into the timber get when it has had three coats of shellac.would running it through a thicknesser 1 mm each side be enough?a lot of timber needs to be planed down quite a bit.but there are some i cant go too far.the slabs i have are only 25mm thick.any advice would be great thanks.Gaz

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Originally Posted by fishingaz

Hi all i have been lucky enough to sourse a large lot of huon pine.plenty for my needs but it has been shellact so my question is how deep into the timber get when it has had three coats of shellac.would running it through a thicknesser 1 mm each side be enough?a lot of timber needs to be planed down quite a bit.but there are some i cant go too far.the slabs i have are only 25mm thick.any advice would be great thanks.Gaz

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Shellac is easy to remove. When Shellac is initially applied, the Shellac flakes are dissolved in Metholated Spirits (Metho). And Metho will quickly soften an old Shellac finish. To test and confirm that your boards are actually coated with Shellac (and not some other sort of finish), wet a test piece with some Metho. If the board is coated with Shellac, then the Metho will start to dissolve the Shellac finish quite quickly. It might take a bit of light rubbing initially to remove any wax or polish build-up that may be on the shellac, but then the shellac will start to get sticky in a matter of seconds.

If Metho doesn't make the finish that is on your boards sticky fairly quickly, then that finish is not Shellac, and you'll need to investigate other stripping methods. (If Metho didn't work, try the same thing with Acetone or Lacquer Thinners, and if the finish softens when coated with Acetone or Lacquer Thinners, then the finish is probably some sort of Lacquer. Other types of clear finishes, for example Vanish) will not disolve in the solvents that were used to initially apply them, so sanding those other finishes might be the best option.

Try to avoid using a paint stripper to remove the old finish that is on the boards, as any paint stripper residue that remains on the boards afterwards may cause future problems with glue adhesion.

Assuming that the Metho test worked, and as a result you've confirmed that you actually have Shellac on those boards, that is good because Shellac is easy to remove.

Flood the shellac'd surface with Metho, and allow the Metho to sit for a few minutes. If the Metho evaporates too quickly, brush more metho on. Use a paint scraper to scrape off the Shellac as it softens. Once you've scraped off most of the shellac, you can lightly sand the rest off. The Shellac finish is not a deep penetrating finish, so you shouldn't need to remove wood in a planner to remove all of the shellac finish.

Metholated Spirits is highly flammable. Do this outside or in an area with good ventilation, and no sources of combustion nearby.

Hope that helps,

RoyG

that certainly does help Roy and easy to understand .thanks very much. Gaz.

How did you get on with the Huon Gaz?:B

sorry Dave but haven't got around to it as yet.busy getting other stuff done.i have finally finished cutting out all the parts from the sheets and sanding every part . .
now here is another question.what is the step by step way of preparing the timbers and ply im using.my idea is
1 coat all timber and ply with boatcote resin plus hardener plus trpda.then sand again with 80 grit
2 then coat with resin plus hardener to all timber and ply and join the planks with some 300 fibregass mat then lightly sand again
3 then begin building with resin plus hardener plus thickener to bond and laminate what needs to be done.

am I on the right track?
all and an advice much appreciated.
thanks Gaz.

You've pretty much got it Gaz, crept I'd probably use 120 grit at first, not as obvious scratches. Bote Cote puts out a booklet that's pretty cheap and useful.
Another book on epoxy work that is really good is put out by ptwatercraft.com.

Thanks Andrew I have the boatcote small book and is very good.but I like info from people that have built a vessel. and may have real world issues and there are plenty of knowledgeable people on his site that have come up against many problems. an come out the other side with some stunning looing craft

hanks Gaz.