Drawbar question - damn newby!

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28th January 2011, 09:54 AM
newbyangler

Drawbar question - damn newby!

Hi everyone - a newby here. I've just found this great forum by accident, and I think it is one of the best I've seen in terms of quality of content - well done to all concerned.

Now for my newby question - I've got a small (4'x3') box trailer thats pretty old (40 yrs?) but its in reasonable nick. The original draw bar was only 2ft long, making it a pig to reverse and useless for carrying anything of length. I've decided to convert the trailer to allow me to carry my kayak, so its only destined for light duty - on most occasions it will be carrying less than 100kg - depending on how many fish I catch :U - and the old coupling was something like a 1 5/8" ball. so the trailer has sat for 10 or so years unused.

Anyway - I've extended the drawbar by 1.5m, using 50x50x4 tubing. The tubing is laterally welded along a couple of cross members on the trailer and the old coupling plate. Its secured to the trailer at several points.

Question 1 - is there any drama in me putting a high tensile bolt through the old coupling plate and the tubing to provide an extra level of security to the draw bar? ie will the hole/bolt weaken the drawbar at that point? I also need to bolt the jockey wheel bracket in place.

Qu 2 - if I find there to be a bit of flex in the new draw bar, would it be suitable to run a couple of bits of angle iron along the underside - welded laterally or is there a preferred alternative? I'm aware you can run a support truss under the drawbar, but the angle iron seems a simpler solution.

Qu 3 - when grinding out old or poor welds, how far back do you need to go? Theres a couple of corners on the trailer that I can't get to with a normal grinder. Is it satisfactory to get to it as best I can with the grinder and then go over the lot again with a new bead?

On a side note I took the old bearings off last night and I think I'm going to have trouble finding a replacement kit. the wheels are off a 1960's mini minor. added on top of that the 10" tyres are knackered - not sure where I can renew them and the lights need replacing. Might have been cheaper and easier to buy a new one!:roll:

Any suggestions for finding unusual bearings or tyres around Adelaide?

thanks to any advice provided. cheers.
29th January 2011, 12:09 AM
Yonnee

Quote:

Originally Posted by newbyangler

Hi everyone - a newby here. I've just found this great forum by accident, and I think it is one of the best I've seen in terms of quality of content - well done to all concerned.

Now for my newby question - I've got a small (4'x3') box trailer thats pretty old (40 yrs?) but its in reasonable nick. The original draw bar was only 2ft long, making it a pig to reverse and useless for carrying anything of length. I've decided to convert the trailer to allow me to carry my kayak, so its only destined for light duty - on most occasions it will be carrying less than 100kg - depending on how many fish I catch :U - and the old coupling was something like a 1 5/8" ball. so the trailer has sat for 10 or so years unused.

Anyway - I've extended the drawbar by 1.5m, using 50x50x4 tubing. The tubing is laterally welded along a couple of cross members on the trailer and the old coupling plate. Its secured to the trailer at several points.

Question 1 - is there any drama in me putting a high tensile bolt through the old coupling plate and the tubing to provide an extra level of security to the draw bar? ie will the hole/bolt weaken the drawbar at that point? I also need to bolt the jockey wheel bracket in place.
You could, but I think it would be overkill. The 4mm wall thickness tube is already a reasonable size.

Qu 2 - if I find there to be a bit of flex in the new draw bar, would it be suitable to run a couple of bits of angle iron along the underside - welded laterally or is there a preferred alternative? I'm aware you can run a support truss under the drawbar, but the angle iron seems a simpler solution.
Flexing in a drawbar (within reason) is a good thing. If it wasn't allowed to flex, it would snap.

Qu 3 - when grinding out old or poor welds, how far back do you need to go? Theres a couple of corners on the trailer that I can't get to with a normal grinder. Is it satisfactory to get to it as best I can with the grinder and then go over the lot again with a new bead?
Depends on what you mean by old or poor. If the trailer is as old as you say, then I reckon the current welds have been ok till now.

On a side note I took the old bearings off last night and I think I'm going to have trouble finding a replacement kit. the wheels are off a 1960's mini minor. added on top of that the 10" tyres are knackered - not sure where I can renew them and the lights need replacing. Might have been cheaper and easier to buy a new one!:roll:

Any suggestions for finding unusual bearings or tyres around Adelaide?

thanks to any advice provided. cheers.

10" tyres are still around. Best let your fingers do the walking, or typing... and while you're at it, google 'bearings adelaide' and you should find a few starting points, otherwise Eastern Bearings in Knoxfield, Melbourne buy up surplus bearing from all over, so see if you can find any numbers on the old bearings.
29th January 2011, 12:34 PM
newbyangler

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yonnee

10" tyres are still around. Best let your fingers do the walking, or typing... and while you're at it, google 'bearings adelaide' and you should find a few starting points, otherwise Eastern Bearings in Knoxfield, Melbourne buy up surplus bearing from all over, so see if you can find any numbers on the old bearings.

Thanks Yonnee. As it turns out the 'mini' bearings were not from a mini at all - one source suggested they were off an 'early' FJ Holden. Regardless, I went to Gardner bearings who were able to match them, and at a cheaper price than a normal bearing kit. Also scored a set of used light truck tyres for the trailer too, so a useful morning. Thanks again.:2tsup: