Basic Sharpening - The Next Step
Introductory Background
Good Morning Everyone
Five years ago I suddenly realised that I had to learn to sharpen properly, started a thread, and got some truly excellent advice from forumites, especially Derek and Clinton, but also from a host of others who made useful contributions or who helped ask the right questions. Thanks one and all.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f127/i...73/index3.html
My objective was to make it as simple as possible, to remove all complications (eg flattening of stones), and then develop the technique and skills to get consistently sharp blades. Repeatability was important. Whetstones were placed on the "not yet" list as they required maintenance of a flat surface, and diamond stones were also deferred due to $$$'s. Get the basics right, and then move on. So the decision was made to go with scary sharp and a honing guide.
I bought a Veritas Mk 2 honing guide (marvellous), a sheet of toughened plate glass (tip shop!), a range of wet & dry from 100 to 2,000 grit, and followed the advice given. Almost instantly my chisels were 'scary sharp' and their sharpness has improved slightly since then as my skill and speed grew. Sharpening is now so easy that I do it rather than "tomorrowing" it.
One of the unexpected benefits is quite psychological. Using sharp tools is somehow therapeutic. I really get a kick out of lightly running a chisel along a piece of wood and it smoothly removes a thin shaving. Previously I'd belt it with a hammer and a jagged chip would pop out ......... Sharp tools increase the pleasure of woodworking immensely.
Now I think I am ready to move on - five years of absorbing scary sharp - and also because I suspect some limitations with scary sharp:
- wet&dry moves/flexes minutely as you run the blades across,
- cost of sandpaper is mounting,
- cheap Titans do not sharpen as well as Wards, suspect courser grain in steel?
- want to try something else.
A summary of what I have learned from five years of scary sharp:
- Sharp tools increase the pleasure of woodworking immensely,
- Even I can sharpen chisels well,
- A good honing guide is indispensible (Veritas is excellent),
- Do not start work on the primary bevel before you have flattened the back to a mirror finish,
- I use 100, 180, 300, 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grits,
- Using feeler gauges and a strait edge, if back more than 0.1mm out of flat, then question whether it is worth restoring that tool,
- If it is out of flat by more than 0.2mm, then it almost certainly is not worth the effort.
- For all work on the bevel then the honing guide is mandatory (some of us simply cannot learn to freehand!),
- Wet & dry by the length/roll allows longer strokes with the honing guide and greatly increases speed,
- Last point is especially true when establishing primary bevel - 60 & 100 grit,
- As you progress through the grits be extremely dilligent in removing all courser grits; constantly wash and wipe,
- Stay on a grit until a wire appears on the back, and all scratches from the previous courser grit have been removed,
- Remove the wire and clean well before going to next finer grit,
- Quite a lot of effort required on the first "proper" sharpening,
- Not much effort required to maintain sharpness, maintenance sharpening must be frequent,
- If one drops the chisel on concrete, chops a nail, or lends it to ***, then one has to start all over again,
- Even I can sharpen things reasonably well.
Overall, I am very pleased with the learning experience and the increase in pleasure.
Fair Winds
Graeme