Cross slide lock with a DRO fitted

Hi,
I was asked on another forum about this and thought others here might have run into this problem, so I thought I would post it here as well.
It has only taken me 6 or so years after fitting the DRO to do this, LOL

I had a backing spar behind my glass scale on my 12 x 36 lathe and it covered the cross slide lock, so this is the solution I came up with. I don't run coolant as yet so I only had to worry about the chips.

I removed it today, but forgot to take pictures of the main part or the machining. It was such a hassle to replace because I left the scale in place and the bolt stuck out, so I just drew a picture of the part and took photos of the finished thing (sorry)

Picture one is what shape I found the spanner fitted best and I just milled it out.
Then installed, it was hard to get a good picture with the phone so I posted them all.
I decided to put a cover on it to stop chips and then found it was hard to get out, so a touch with an end mill gave me a finger nail edge to get it out. My scale sits above the cross slide about 2mm so that made it helpful.

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1584521d.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...pse037ebc4.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...psd25c7eff.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps662f3c8b.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps3cfc7e98.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...psba8df992.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps4add2e6a.jpg



Dave

Edit
Extra picture

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps902fe9d1.jpg

Nice work Dave.

Thanks Michael, it's been a long time coming. Now I can use the lock.

Looks like I am out of practise as you cant click on the photo's, will change it.

Dave

Hi Dave,

Looks good but I need further explanation. Is the cross slide lock a feature that you installed/retrofitted or was it a factory feature? I only have a saddle lock on my lathe but I do see the potential for a cross slide lock.

How does the cross slide lock work? Is it a bolt that tightens the gibb similar to a mill?

Cheers,

Simon

I just drilled and tapped the cross slide and use an Allen headed bolt to apply pressure to the existing cross slide gibb as required.

That way you don't lose any horizontal travel towards the tailstock.

10 minute job.

Cross slide lock is one of the most useful things you can add to a lathe.

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonl

Hi Dave,

Looks good but I need further explanation. Is the cross slide lock a feature that you installed/retrofitted or was it a factory feature? I only have a saddle lock on my lathe but I do see the potential for a cross slide lock.

How does the cross slide lock work? Is it a bolt that tightens the gibb similar to a mill?

Cheers,

Simon

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Hi Simon
Your lathe should have one, they are usually a grub screw half way along the cross slide on the right.
The picture below should explain things. I fitted single ball bearings to each lock on the mill and lathe, etc and it makes a big difference. Once fitted you only need to lightly tighten the lock which takes pressure off the sloppy cast iron threads.
Mine is a M6 and if you don't have one it would be easy to add.

You should also have one in the compound.
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps96a3d5ba.jpg

Dave

What's the purpose of the blue spacer Dave ?

I just have the ball bearing pressing against the gib blade and a concave in the end of the bolt.

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nearnexus

What's the purpose of the blue spacer Dave ?

I just have the ball bearing pressing against the gib blade and a concave in the end of the bolt.

Rob

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Hi Rob
My mill came standard factory fitted with them and it saves the thread or ball denting or chewing out the tapered gib and also distributes the pressure. With a bolt on a tapered gib it will only touch at the top, and the ball will want to run to the bottom as it's a tapered surface.
It's easy to make the little slugs up, they only need to be mild steel.

Dave

Nice work Dave, good to see you doing some projects again.

My mills both have brass slugs not steel. What I don't get is how the ball bearing helps?

I don't have the space to even fit a bolt head on my lathe, I have another idea in mind, I will provide some details in the mars lathe scraping thread when I get to it. I'm still fighting with nut alignment at the moment......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave J

Hi Rob
My mill came standard factory fitted with them and it saves the thread or ball denting or chewing out the tapered gib and also distributes the pressure. With a bolt on a tapered gib it will only touch at the top, and the ball will want to run to the bottom as it's a tapered surface.
It's easy to make the little slugs up, they only need to be mild steel.

Dave

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I can see the logic, but in use I haven't noticed any issues - pressure is light on these components.

I would like to put a lock on the top slide, but it's a bit more problematic. Metal is less and ideally I would like to lock the thread shaft, but not so easy to do.

Have looked into it a few times such as when I spotted the lock on Uees Mars, but major work so no action at present.

For the TPG and lathe milling you must have a cross slide lock.

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ueee

Nice work Dave, good to see you doing some projects again.

My mills both have brass slugs not steel. What I don't get is how the ball bearing helps?

I don't have the space to even fit a bolt head on my lathe, I have another idea in mind, I will provide some details in the mars lathe scraping thread when I get to it. I'm still fighting with nut alignment at the moment......

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The bearing takes away the friction between the little slug and the thread, it's noticeable after it's fitted.

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave J

The bearing takes away the friction between the little slug and the thread, it's noticeable after it's fitted.

Dave

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Yes, sure does.

On 860 bevel engine Ducati the cross shaft for the clutch uses rollers and shafts separated by a ball bearing (several in the train) to transfer the clutch shift movement from the right side of the crankcase to the left.

Prevents binding.

Just a bit of useless trivia from a long time Ducati addict :)

Rob

Had to edit that several times - having a memory lapse on the techo bit.

Interesting Rob.

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave J

The bearing takes away the friction between the little slug and the thread, it's noticeable after it's fitted.

Dave

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I'll throw some in next time i'm out there and think of it. I'm sure i have some balls that will suit....:D