Came to the realisation that the little red number from Aldi no longer met my needs so have upgraded to a Dewalt DWE7491. What blade would you recommend for it? Main use is cutting timber for cutting boards and similar.
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Came to the realisation that the little red number from Aldi no longer met my needs so have upgraded to a Dewalt DWE7491. What blade would you recommend for it? Main use is cutting timber for cutting boards and similar.
You need at least 2 blades, a rip blade and a crosscut blade. I like Freud, so for this saw a thin kerf 24 tooth rip blade and a thin kerf 80 tooth crosscut would be my choices. I'm assuming that the splitter/riving knife is for thin kerf blades not full kerf.
Sorry yes thin kerf. Just had a big oh oops - leg on the cart that I bought today to put the saw on just snapped while assembling it - damn!Quote:
Originally Posted by aldav
The riving knife is 2.2mm thick; the stock blade is 1.75mm thick - I have the manual in my hand at the moment, so I can say this with confidence.Quote:
Originally Posted by aldav
For general woodworking, I would have thought a combination blade would be a good compromise?
I'm interested in getting a dado stack for mine, however, and have a question that someone might possibly answer for me: I can only seem to find 8" dado stacks, but the DWE7491 takes a 10" blade. I'm assuming it's all good to stick an 8" into a 10" (and prob a bad idea to do the opposite!), is this a safe assumption?
You can buy 10" dado stacks (Forrest make one), but why would you go to the extra expense when you're rarely (never?) cutting more than 20mm deep.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waikikamukau
The body of the blade may be 1.75mm thick, but I'd be more than surprised if the kerf is under 2.4mm. If the kerf is 1.75mm and the splitter is 2.2mm the stock would jam between the splitter and the fence.
Combination blades are an abonimation and are good for neither ripping or crosscutting, particularly bad for ripping and even moreso on underpowered saws.
Just my 2c worth.
You make a lot ofcentssense! Cheers for the response :)
I have the same dewalt saw
I bought two Diablo blades from Bunnings.
A 60 tooth and a 90 tooth.
they give great cuts
I use the blade that came with the saw for general stuff and these for finishing stuff.
Firstly no apologies for being so direct here - your safety is paramount! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waikikamukau
There are no safe assumptions when working with wood working machinery! Plain & simple! Don't assume - find the information, read the manuals! :wink:
From the general tone of your posts you appear to have minimal (no?) experience with wood working machinery so please .... please .... do not assume anything. Table saws can bite, and rather savagely if used incorrectly. I would strongly caution against using a dado stack until you are at least familiar with the saws features, capacity and more confident in your own skills to use the machine.
As for blades for the TS - DeWalt have a range of blades that are in my experience very good value for the money and as good a quality as Freud's with one drawback - they are really consumable items, once blunt - purchase a new one.
Combination blades are fine IF you do not plan on using them extensively. In rip operations they are very demanding on the saws power, so as others have indicated purchase a dedicated rip blade as it is well worth the $$$ investment and much safer as dedicated rip blades offer more safety features with the saw plate & tooth count & design.
Another caution - the TS must be mounted on a stable platform - period! :cool:
Far to many injuries occur when you mix inexperienced users with TS's and to throw in an unstable setup - well its simply asking for trouble. :oo:
"Cutting timber for cutting boards" is a rather wide scope, and more tailored info can be given if we know what the "stock timber" is - knowing if it is "found on side of road", rough sawn direct from a mill, skip dressed, or DAR makes a considerable difference in the processing sequence, and best tools, machinery, blades to use.
Safe & happy woodworking is the goal! :U
I appreciate your post, Moby, thank you. And yes, you guess correctly re: my experience with machines: very minimal. I try to advance cautiously and don't mind sounding stupid in forums like this when I feel I'm out of my depth. Sometimes, just reading the manuals makes things more confusing (too much new terminology) since they're often not comprehensive enough for beginners; so here I am ;)
What is the downside of using a thicker blade? As long as the blade kerf is wider than the riving knife, does a thicker blade impact the saw performance much? Just struggling to find a thin blade for my 210mm table saw.
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Thin kerf blade development has really been pushed to the fore mainly due to going cordless. The thin kerf blades are less demanding, consume less battery power & therefore a battery charge will last longer i.e. more cuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by addyau
If you are relying upon suppliers such as the big green shed and other "specialist" tool stores they typically only carry a specific brand/s range or part of that range so will never stock the more unusual sizes, kerf widths etc. (eg Bunnies only stock part of the Sutton imperial drill bit range and do not carry 64th fractional sizes even though Sutton make them.)
Try an industry specialist supplier such as CSK (Combined Saw & Knife) etc. They may not stock the specific size but should be able to source them easily.
Thanks for that info. Might have to try the Milwaukee rip blade, it's a bit thicker (my riving knife recommends blade less than 1.4mm and kerf greater than 1.8) but the table saw is corded so as long as I feed it a bit slower hopefully should be alright.
Might also reach out to more specialised blade places. Again, thank you!
Addy
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