This look alright for DE off SCM you reakon ?

Trying to work out how to clean up the area around the SCM for my new shed.

The little bag that comes with it is useless.

I'm thinking to have 6" flexible hose running to a 45 degree PVC (stormwater stuff) then into a square box just behind the blade. (probably should make that box bigger than what I've got in the picture to capture better when the blades close to the fence.)

Thinking may have to modify it a bit so I can still cut mitres. The box may foul on the fence for them.

Got 6" ducting on the brain at the moment after reading Bills stuff on cyclones.

I've never made anything like this before. What you think ? open to any other ideas.

You could attach a 2" hose where the bag is. I do that. Not perfect but a big improvement on the bag and it copes with mitres. You could still use your system for straight cuts as well.

don't end up with a pile of dust on the floor still ?

I was thinking of something like that, but then I thought, that suction points way too small. only about 30mm I'd say.

Jake you would be better with a large box with tapered sides to catch all of the dust from the top and bottom of the blade.
With the setup you have you will still miss a lot of the shavings when you use the slide on the saw.
Have the hole in the bottom of the box so it catches what falls and draws in the rest.
By having taperd sides and the bottom having a slight fall backwards most of it will go down the tube.

Dear Apricot,

The box is going to obviously get sliced in different locations for each bevel angle when the blade slides all the way backwards. Do you therefore actually even have enough room to do both the box and the PVC bend in the space between the back of the fence and the front of the saw's neck when the blade is all the way forwards. Looking at how the sliding bars are actually visible in the photo, the whole thing may want to slide forward a bit more again, which would give even less room between fence and neck than is shown in the photo.

Best Wishes,
Batpig.

P.S. Sorry Apricot - I just noticed the text about fixing the whole assembly to the horizontal neck. Makes a lot of sense and negates everything I said. Only thing is, one bottom edge will have to be bevelled, and the whole thing in plan view will either have to be narrower than the gap, or taper inwards to the hose connection.

Have a look at the Radial Arm Saw video on the Clear Vue site for an idea, that setup seems to really suck

ta. thanks for the ideas.

That thing really does suck. incredible. Buts thats a radial arm saw though eh.

scm's have got a big arm there which I think which makes things difficult.

Also I forgot to mention.....I normally attach backing board to the fence, to leave a cleaner cut. stop tearout. With that backing board there I suspect a lot of it won't end up back there anyway. Bouncing off it (?) not sure. Looks like a hard one.

Maybe its a good idea to have suction on the small 30mm port as well like Pusser mentioned . just wish the port was bigger.

Wondering what other blokes have done.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by apricotripper

Wondering what other blokes have done.

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Dear Apricot,

I hook up the Auto-Start Wet&Dry to the saw's Dust Port, and then connect the little home-made Mutha in the photos below to the Dusty, and move it in hard-up behind the saw (but at an angle to suit whatever mitre angle I'm cutting at). The thing started life as the Table Saw chute that comes in that $99 kit of Dusty accessories that they all sell. The splay angle is 30deg on all sides.

With the sides splayed out as they are, and the whole thing leaning back as it does, it catches most of whatever's flying (and that's with just a 1hp Dusty...:- - it would be even better again with 2hp behind it.), and anything that it doesn't catch, it usually leaves in a pile in front of it that is easily picked up afterwards with a dustpan and brush.

It's also fantastic for shoving in behind my little stationary Belt & Disc Sander.

Best Wishes,
Batpig.

What if you enclosed the whole back of the SCMS with a heavy material like canvas then have this attached/tapering down to the 6" dia port from underneath the slide bars at the back. You could attach it with velcro to the rear of the blade shroud/body of the saw
Hypothetically(in my head anyway!) it would allow for crosscut movement plus enclose the whole area with the minimum box volume while maintaining a 6" port?

thanks Batpig for the photos. Something like that maybe all I need.

food for thought Harry. :wink:....ta.

Gday Jake, if you go digging back a couple of years on the forums, I recall Zed doing a course with Roger Gifkins, & adopting his DC setup for the SCMS.

Could be worth chasing up.

Edit: Here y'go. :)


Cheers....................Sean

Jake,
I ended up building a pretty large box behind/around my scms. The floor is "V" shaped and angles down to one point where I had planned to fit a 4" dust port. I never got around to hooking it up so when it gets a bit full I poke the dusty hose in there to empty it out. It catches most of the dust. I leave the original dust collecting bag in the hole, but with the plastic slide removed. This slows down the stream of dust so it's less likely to bounce around. The box is wide, high and deep enough that the sliding arms can move through their full range of motion. I used to have a front on the box made out of thin MDF but there was so much of it cut away to allow a full range of movement that it was pretty pointless.

Mick

beauty thankyou. I'll be making one of those.

Jake,
I built a dust box for mine a while back and it works great. If you have a look on my Cyclone WIP, the very last pic shows it in an unfinished state, I put sliding doors on the front that can be adjusted for when the angle of the saw is changed. ( I got that idea off someone elses box that I saw, it may have been Stu in Tokyo).
Have got 6" ducting into the top of the box, I took the dust bag off the saw, and put a short piece of vacuum cleaner hose over the fitting and it is directed straight into the 6" duct. It all works really well, just a bit of trial and error with the doors at the start, so I could get the full range of movement on the saw without fouling on the doors.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...0&d=1163249013

Edit-- Heres a link to my cyclone thread, its the last pic on the last page, I think.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ghlight=cylone