Being a lazy type, I've "standardised" oiling on my Hercus lately.
I'm using the same stuff for everywhere on the lathe, including as cutting lube.
Having just one oil can sure keeps it simple.
Anyone want to talk me out of using ATF?
Jordan
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Being a lazy type, I've "standardised" oiling on my Hercus lately.
I'm using the same stuff for everywhere on the lathe, including as cutting lube.
Having just one oil can sure keeps it simple.
Anyone want to talk me out of using ATF?
Jordan
Hi Jordan,
I am almost as lazy as you, i have one can filled with a 50/50 mix of 46 hydraulic oil and chain bar oil. For cutting fluid i use either flood coolant or tap magic. I'm not sure i could use ATF but only cause it stinks, also i don't know how well it "sticks" to stuff like gears, thats where the chain bar oil is good with all the tackafiers in it.
Ew
Looks like some discussion exists
https://www.google.com/search?q=atf+lubricant+lathe
Bill
ATF is a relatively safe material but maybe you need more than a fan, something like a fume extractor to remove the fumes and oil vapour from the shed is probably needed.
I would recommend reading and acting according to the MSDS for your particular ATF
In most cases the MSDS information is there to cover corporate behind but I guess it's better to be safe.
The Castrol Transmax Full Synthetic Multi-vehicle ATF MSDS recommends
There is an OHS limit of 5mg per /m3 of air on the Castrol ATF and I would think this would easily be exceeded when the ATF is heated by cutting activity and if it's smoking its definitely misting.Quote:
Use only with adequate ventilation. If user operations generate dust, fumes, gas, vapor or mist, use process enclosures, local exhaust ventilation or other engineering controls to keep worker exposure to airborne contaminants below any recommended or statutory limits.
This is the same for any mineral oil - how many of us know this?
Some fluids also contain small amounts of MethylAcrylate which is a chemical found in superglue.
Thanks for the info, Bob.
Maybe the wise thing is to use something else for the cutting lube.
I did some damage with soluble oil once, making a rust patch under where the lathe carriage was parked, so I'm wary of it now.
Anyone use soluble oil that definitely doesn't cause rust?
Jordan
Hi Jordan,
I use Callington unltra synthet 971 http://www.callingtonhaven.com/_asse...synthet971.pdf I have not had a single rust issue with it yet except where i have left cast iron dust on the mill and machined something with coolant later. The CI dust has rusted.
Ew
I'm using the old H&F synthetic lube and when freshly mixed and made to requirements it is fine.
Problems arise purely because I am lazy.
What happens is that eventually some of the water evaporates away and the oil in the tank starts to gel so I just add a bit of water to the tank and keep going, usually because I am in the middle of a quick job.
The problem is that I usually keep cutting and the water hasn't had time to properly mix with the oil and so the concentration of the oil in water being delivered to the lathe is too low and if I walk away without cleaning the lathe I sometimes get some rust spots, usually in the fresh swarf or where fresh swarf is in contact with the lathe.
None of the above is necessary. My coolant lube tank has a high volume loop built into it. To thoroughly mix the oil and water all I need to do is close the outlet to the lathe and run the pump for a few minutes and it repeatedly cycles the coolant around and an around through a 2 m long 20 mm pipe and back into the tank. When I do this it is very effective.
The other thing is not to add just plain water to the tank. What should be done before adding it to the tank is to add even just a little soluble oil to the plain water and make sure this is mixed. This helps everything mix back up quicker.
If this is attended to regularly I don't see any rust.