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i have started in on a project with tru-oil and after about 7 light coats dont like it that much and aint really going to fit with this project - it kind of builds like lacquer and gathers in corners and recesses in a gunky pool that goes hard - the recomended application is with the figers
not really sure what will remove it - it is a linseed ol base afaik
it is commonly used on gunstocks
is it possible to get it it all off completely so i can redo with danish??
if so what can i use??
G'day OP,
Depending on how big the project is and I guess, how desperate you are I would start with the most benign [most gentle] and work up to the most severe. I believe that Tru-oil is a linseed oil and tung oil mix - what else if anything I'm not aware of. I gather from your comments that sanding off completely is not a viable option.
Depending on what you have available, turps, metho, shellite, thinners, paint stripper [with its own set of neutralising and bleaching problems although perhaps "Citristrip" could be an answer as it is claimed to be non caustic], MEK, acetone, mixture of MEK and acetone [priming fluid for PVC pipe connections]. Not sure of any of the effects it may have on your timber and you will also need to take all of the usual precautions re the toxicity of the solvents.
Not sure if this helps but it may give you some ideas, regards,
Bob
thanks bob
acetone tool it roght off - bit of rub and scrub with a course cloth and toothbrush - its all gone
my appraisal of this stuff as a finish ?
may as well shoot lacquer
applying by fingers leaves a fairly ametuerish gloss
if you want proper gloss i am sure you will get it if you apply enough, level sand and buff
may as well use a proper lacquer
if you want satin sheen there are easier ways to achieve that
after application you have to knock back the shine off tru-oil
Glad to hear you had a win.
How about some pix of what you are building.
Regards,
Bob
i will post some iof the finished
nothing out of the ordinary
blackguard tele
Thats a bit strange Ray, Ive used it a lot with a damp rag of Tru oil and it works really well. Sounds like you were applying a bit too much. Pete Howlett has just put up a vid on the ANZLF on part of his process and he uses a damp rag as well. Its more like shellac than laquer in that respect.
i will certainly check that out - i know a lot of people like tru-oil - it didn't work for me on this all maple neck - got to admit i just got stuck into it without really road testing it first - my bad-
it came off very clean with acetone which is a big + for tru-oil
i redid in cabots danish and it has come up a treat as it usually does