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Anyone got any thoughts about the Carba-Tec SK-28SP spindle moulder? It is 3 HP, single phase, with 3 speeds (3000-9000 RPM.)
I would be using it with 200mm grooving blades (stack of three with spacers), similar to the ones shown below. I'm cutting rebates in the end of 40mm x 30mm Meranti.
Kind Regards
Liam
http://www.felder.co.at/data/product...bild_thumb.jpg
Plenty of thoughts, all bad. Not just about the spindle moulder you mentioned, but all spindle moulders, and the thought of having 3 x 200mm cutters in one is enough to send me screaming into the shrubbery. IMHO the single most dangerous piece of machinery in a joinery shop. Just my 2cents+GST worth.
Termite
The safety issue seems to be a fairly common thread. I am only young (25) and am kinda looking forward to the rest of my life. I have a Festo pneumatic ram that has a travel of nearly a metre. Thinking of connecting this to the sliding table, and operating it from behind a 18mm piece of form ply with a very thick perspex window.
I'm making the canvas stretcher bars and there really does not appear to be any other way to do them quickly (without spending millions).
Thanks
Liam
You won't need the ram, it'll cut meranti like butter.
Can't you make a jig for your table saw and use that with a dado blade?
Bob,
I have been down this path. The problem is that I need to make about 80 pieces a day. Each piece would need to be passed through the blade 6 times. With the spindle moulder, I plan on lining 8 of them up and pushing the whole lot through in one go.
I too live in Oxley. If you hear a bang and screaming, please come investigate :)
Liam
You will need a sliding table with this method,
I used to make furniture finger joints this way.
Jemoge
Liam,
if you can get a hold of a Felder-Hammer catalogue check out their spindle moulders and accessories. They have a tenoning set up which is very safe. There's a fence which only allows the cutters to protrude - no gaps. You can do this yourself by using a false fence and easing your cutter through this for a zero clearance fence. Then they have a sliding table with the workpiece clamped to it. You can make a workable substitute, some sort of sled arrangement. Lastly, but most importantly, safety wise is a guard through which you poke the stock. Like a big box which covers the cutter but is large enough to allow enough movement to do your cut. This explanation is probably clear as mud, get the catalogue and it'll be pretty clear. You should be able to rig something up to make it a very safe operation for whatever brand of spindle you get.
Mick
Hi LiamQuote:
Originally Posted by ltovey
I don't understand your reasoning. You are cutting rebates into 40 mm *30 mm meranti., An 8" dado cutter can cut a slot up to 19mm wide, or, with suitable spacers, it can cut both sides of a tenon at the same time. Why would you need to pass each piece over the blade 6 times
Spindle moulders with a power feed are just awsome! No router or whatever can give you the same finish/speed/accuracy as a spindle moulder. I do agree they can certainly frighten the day lights out of you if you are silly with your approach. and as you sound like you have plenty to do. Then a pwer feeder is a great addition. Stand back and just feed the wood into the power feeder.
Sinjin
Bob,
The joint is actually made up of four parts. Below are a couple of pics. There are actually three rebates in each end of the framing piece.
Thanks
Liam
http://brilliantprints.com.au/1.jpghttp://brilliantprints.com.au/2.jpg
I think this site shows examples of the tenoning hood Mick is talking about. Although it demonstrates use of a dado cutter on the spindle it does show examples of a hood in use.Quote:
Originally Posted by journeyman Mick
http://www.stonehorsefarm.com/Tenon_Hoods.htm
Thanks NDRU
very helpful
Kind Regards
Liam